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'71 F250 12 valve conversion

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Alternator/Tach questions

8.3 Cummins / 6CTA The

So I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to fit a driveline in between the transmission and the transfer case. It needs to be about 3. 5" long. If you but two weld yokes together your looking at about 4. 25" in length for a 1410 setup.

I'm thinking that I want to run a 1350 series H yoke. It is less than 3" long. The slip yoke on the 47rh can take up that length easily. Anybody ever try this? Anybody have any horror stories or reasons why I shouldn't try this?

I'm hoping to build the trans crossmember/mount this weekend. Then I can finish the exhaust and build the bell crank for the shifter.

I did tack in the fuel door this morning. Gotta tackle the Lil projects in the AM before I head to work.
 
transmission crossmember.JPG

Got the transmission crossmember finished up this last Friday. it had to be shaped to clear the driveline to the front axle and the 5" exhaust.

Now onto the shifter bellcrank... ...

I am thinking about integrating the Dodge core support into the Ford core support so that I can use the Dodge radiator and so that the intercooler will fit better. Lots of custom metal work I think.

transmission crossmember.JPG
 
I ran 3/8" steel lines with short sections of marine grade soft line. I pillaged a remote filter off of a truck in the bone yard at work. The engine can now get fuel.
I got an adapter to run the Ford oil pressure sender, but it is too big and interferes with the steering pump. Guess I will need a 90* fitting.
The bell crank for the shifter is done and the paint is drying, I'll install it in the AM.
Almost time to start fitting the front sheet metal around the Gen 2 core support. That'll be fun, right.
 
Very nice fab work, I love seeing a well planned conversion. Glad to see you are getting rid of the in-cab fuel tank, I can't believe we used to drive around like that in our younger days :eek: .

I really look forward to following your project, it should be very nice when you have her completed.
 
Radiator support

I mixed the core support from the Gen 2 donor into the '71 Ford core support so that it would correctly mount the Dodge radiator and intercooler.
The option to post pics doesn't show up on my phone anymore.
Now for the wiring.
 
photo.JPG


photo(1).JPG


I got the two core supports blended together to fit the Dodge radiator and intercooler into the Ford chassis. I did this like this for a somewhat factory appearance.

photo.JPG


photo(1).JPG
 
That front pic sure is dark and doesn't really show any detail.
The dodge support fits really nice and I was able to keep the Ford upper so that it will appear factory at a glance.

I down loaded a bunch of wiring diagrams today. Hopefully I can get the harness dialed in tomorrow. I hate electrical work
 
I suffered through the wiring and got it all sorted out. I moved all of the Ford solenoid and voltage regulator stuff to the driver's side of the compartment since that is how the Cummins was set up and the starter is on that side too. The only wiring left on the passenger's side lights up the lights.
I took the Dodge harness and opened it up and removed all of the leads that I wouldn't be using. I ended up with a table full of spaghetti left.
That leads me to today, I got it fired up and let it run for about 10 minutes. I haven't hooked up the radiator yet, so I didn't want it to build too much heat. Now I will tear the front inner sheet metal back off and paint it. I will also re-time the pump and add the GSK, fix the KDP and put a new front main seal in it.
Thank you again for the advice and compliments. I want to do it right the first time as this is my daily driver.
 
The dodge case is not twin stick capable. I'm pretty happy with the 205 divorce mounted. This configuration also stays true to one of Highboy traits that I wanted to keep.
 
Powder Coating

My dad runs a powder coating shop in Cascade, ID (Finish Line Coatings), every Christmas that is what I ask for. Seems like I always have a project going in the winter. Hmmm.
We coated the rocker covers, timing cover, intake horn, boost tubes, & the fan pulley Ford blue.
The core support and inner wheel wells we did in super gloss black.
I'd attach pics, but the mobile vbulletin doesn't give me the option that I can find.
I built the filler neck for the fuel tank yesterday, that's a tight fit. It has a touch of fall to the tank, I hope it's enough to fill smoothly. I hate it when a tank doesn't want to take fuel.
I advanced the pump timing 3* last week. That is a patience torturing activity. I wanted 4*, after the 5th attempt I decided 3* was good enough. The pump had been off before, some hack beat the nut off with a chisel and then ground the flats back semi straight.
I pinned the dowel pin that was working on moving out and replaced the front main seal and timing cover gasket.
Now I have to finish the wiring integration in the interior and build a bracket to hang the twin stick shifters for the NP205.
 
Ford Blue Cummins.jpg

This pic shows the freshly installed Ford Blue coated engine parts. The color really livens up the appearance of the engine.

short shaft.jpg

I'm pretty sure this is one of the shortest driveshafts I have ever seen. The 1350 Hyoke was a couple inches shorter than I liked for spline engagement into the transmission, so I decided I would try to make a super short 1410 shaft from the donor pickup's salvaged driveshaft. It is pretty much the perfect length. The only downfall is that I will have to pull the transfercase to change ujoints. After thinking about it some more, I would convert to a married 205 if I found a cheap overdrive unit (GV) to go behind the transmission. Maybe someday. I think this will work fine.

Ford Blue Cummins.jpg


short shaft.jpg
 
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I got the ol girl running and have been driving her to work for a couple weeks now.
This thing is so fun to drive, I'm looking for reasons to go places. It's Stinkin quick compared to what it was with the tired 390.
I need to finish some stuff yet, fit the front bumper and splash apron around the coolers and wire a relay into the trigger for the voltage regulator so that it quits fitting with the alternator, and fab the bracket for the twin stick shifters for the NP205.
I picked up a D80 to replace the locked D60 in the back.
Once again, I'm really happy with it so far.
My daughter loves to ride in it now.
 
Now the tuning process begins.
Currently the torque plate is MIA, I'd like to put one in, the screws are gone since the PO took out the plate. What size are the screws?
4kgsk is installed, seems to idle too fast, but I don't have a tach yet. 60# valve springs are on the list for next weekend w a valve adjustment.
15.5 degrees pump timing, I wanted 16.5, but after 5 attempts I decided 15.5 was probably enough at this time.
5" exhaust.
MHAF filter, BHAF wouldn't fit.
This is a daily driver hotrod. Any advice on what I should try? I'm gonna try a 100 plate and see how that works.
It is a 160 pump engine. I hear 215 injectors are the hot ticket for what I am doing. I want to get good mileage when I can keep my foot out of it.
 
Really coming along nice! Going to be a really nice ride.
But I gotta ask, Ford blue ON a Cummins engine? :eek:
 
Ford blue is worth at least 50 hp.....lol
fan bearing is squeaking, holy cow those are spendy lil buggers....Anybody have any opinions on which ones are better? NTN last fine?
 
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