BDaugherty
TDR MEMBER
I'm building a 50x50x16 red iron steel building to run my diesel repair business out of. I've got the concrete poured and steel structure put up. The next step is to put the metal up, but I need to decide on insulation first. The following are some facts that I think are relevant to the advice I'm asking for:
1: I'm in West GA with basically the same climate/weather as Atlanta.
2: I bought my entire shop used and plan to re-use all the metal on the roof and sides. It's the heavy gauge R-panel in good condition.
3: I will heat with wood in winter.
4: I have trees all the way around for good shade.
5: There won't be any A/C, but I will have a large fan in one end of the shop to pull air through.
I've looked into fiberglass batts, spray foam, and radiant barrier. My PRIMARY concern is controlling the heat in the hot GA summer which lasts most of the year. Secondary to that is that I want to be able to keep enough heat in during the winter to be comfortable enough to work and not just blow through loads of firewood. Also, I'm mainly brainstorming about the roof right now. I've pretty much decided on $0.28 per square foot 3" fiberglass batts for the walls. I figure it's the best bang for the buck and makes for easy additions later on.
For the roof:
I can get foil faced 4" fiberglass for around $0.32 per square foot. My main concern is that even with the foil, it won't reflect enough heat from the sun to keep me cool. I'm also concerned about the potential for roof leaks to damage the insulation.
The aluminum faced bubble wrap radiant barrier is around $0.25 per square foot. It also works GREAT at keeping the sun's heat out. From my research, it does better at keeping the heat out in Summer than the fiberglass. It's also mostly impervious to water damage.
There is a system by which I can install the radiant barrier to the bottom of the 6" Z's under the roof and then use un-faced fiberglass batts on top to get both a high R value for winter and radiant barrier for summer. However, this system has material costs similar to installed spray foam. Both radiant barrier and fiberglass batts must be installed correctly or their effectiveness is greatly reduced.
I can get 1" average thickness spray foam installed for about $1.20 per square foot. Spraying the roof will save a lot of time on install and it will allow me to get the metal up and find any leaks before the insulation goes in. It's also much more "dummy proof" on the install. However, it's costly, birds will eat it, it will make replacing a roof panel a serious pain, and I don't know how well it will do in summer compared to the radiant barrier.
Who has done this before and what would you do differently? I don't have a huge budget, but I don't want to do anything twice. Any suggestions?
1: I'm in West GA with basically the same climate/weather as Atlanta.
2: I bought my entire shop used and plan to re-use all the metal on the roof and sides. It's the heavy gauge R-panel in good condition.
3: I will heat with wood in winter.
4: I have trees all the way around for good shade.
5: There won't be any A/C, but I will have a large fan in one end of the shop to pull air through.
I've looked into fiberglass batts, spray foam, and radiant barrier. My PRIMARY concern is controlling the heat in the hot GA summer which lasts most of the year. Secondary to that is that I want to be able to keep enough heat in during the winter to be comfortable enough to work and not just blow through loads of firewood. Also, I'm mainly brainstorming about the roof right now. I've pretty much decided on $0.28 per square foot 3" fiberglass batts for the walls. I figure it's the best bang for the buck and makes for easy additions later on.
For the roof:
I can get foil faced 4" fiberglass for around $0.32 per square foot. My main concern is that even with the foil, it won't reflect enough heat from the sun to keep me cool. I'm also concerned about the potential for roof leaks to damage the insulation.
The aluminum faced bubble wrap radiant barrier is around $0.25 per square foot. It also works GREAT at keeping the sun's heat out. From my research, it does better at keeping the heat out in Summer than the fiberglass. It's also mostly impervious to water damage.
There is a system by which I can install the radiant barrier to the bottom of the 6" Z's under the roof and then use un-faced fiberglass batts on top to get both a high R value for winter and radiant barrier for summer. However, this system has material costs similar to installed spray foam. Both radiant barrier and fiberglass batts must be installed correctly or their effectiveness is greatly reduced.
I can get 1" average thickness spray foam installed for about $1.20 per square foot. Spraying the roof will save a lot of time on install and it will allow me to get the metal up and find any leaks before the insulation goes in. It's also much more "dummy proof" on the install. However, it's costly, birds will eat it, it will make replacing a roof panel a serious pain, and I don't know how well it will do in summer compared to the radiant barrier.
Who has done this before and what would you do differently? I don't have a huge budget, but I don't want to do anything twice. Any suggestions?