Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) trans removal Tips? Cooling lines? Tricks?

[aerialimage]

Just about to pull my 47Re to swap in a Hopefully good used trans. ( will rebuild the original to swap in later)
Have a 10K lift but doing this on floor and lift because 8' of truck hangs beyond rear lift arms!
compromised with 4 serious truck stands and a couple feet up on lift also.
So what about those cooling lines! Looks like they need to be removed completly as they pass so far back from bell housing. any quick fittings? looked like hard to reach area under the heat exchanger! Other than those lines it looks like an easy job. any good tips? Removed rear shaft today and fixed heat in garage so ready to get at it this week. Hope my used transmission seller was honest! one way to find out for sure! anyone have any trouble with the trans heat exchanger? Should I eliminate it and add a big cooler or are they usually trouble free?
all tips and tricks welcome!
Thanks
99 QC DRW 4x4 Auto.

 

[RonaldLarson]

I do not recommend deleting the fluid flow though the cooler unit. It is also a heater for very cold fluid, and prevents seal failure. The cooling that is stock is plenty sufficient.

 

[aerialimage]

I do not recommend deleting the fluid flow though the cooler unit. It is also a heater for very cold fluid, and prevents seal failure. The cooling that is stock is plenty sufficient.

Fair enough, It will stay!
Thanks

 

[RonaldLarson]

Another tip for transmission health. Most of the heat in trans fluid is generated by the torque convertor. Adding a better convertor along with a lockup controller reduces temps very well. I have a triple lock convertor and controller, and inline temp sender, and I have never seen over 160 degrees, including towing. The running temp differences with lockup on and off is very large.

 

[Axtell3]

It's pretty straight forward. A heated garage will make it almost pleasant! You do have a manual?

 

[aerialimage]

It's pretty straight forward. A heated garage will make it almost pleasant! You do have a manual?

Thanks, no manual. Have heat, car lift, trans jacks, good shop.
Trans came out easy. Going to gather seals, cooler lines, and so on this week. Ill prep the used trans this week and install next weekend. Going to rebuild the original after a few other projects unless the used one does not feel good.
Cross member came out pretty easy too just tapped it rearward toward the wide frame section then rocked it out. No big hammer just a few light taps.

 

[aerialimage]

Thanks, no manual. Have heat, car lift, trans jacks, good shop.
Trans came out easy. Going to gather seals, cooler lines, and so on this week. Ill prep the used trans this week and install next weekend. Going to rebuild the original after a few other projects unless the used one does not feel good.
Cross member came out pretty easy too just tapped it rearward toward the wide frame section then rocked it out. No big hammer just a few light taps.

Up and running, that crossmember took me about 20 minutes to get back in but otherwise a mostly painless job.
My used trans is feeling pretty good, had to adjust front band but that should have been done anyways. 72 inch pounds and counterclockwise 1 7/8 turns. Nice to have my truck back. I'll rebuild the original trans a few months from now after I catch up on a few other things.

 

[Cosmo]

If you use the ATSG book for your rebuild, just know that there are a number of glaring errors. Don't waste your time trying to make your trans match the book.

 

[JMcCoy]

When you reinstall your original, I would do the rear main seal since your right there. I have heard of people replacing the rear freeze plug with a hose attachment to improve coolant flow to the #6 cylinder. I have not done this personally, but may be a good idea while in there.