Installed the MAG-Hytec transmission pan on 68 RFE

[Bug Out]

I finally got around to installing the transmission pan this weekend. Truck has 18,500K miles on it, 3000 miles of towing on it. I have had it and the rear end cover since before I got the truck. I looked up 68 RFE oil/filter services on you tube. Sometimes that can scare you more then Med-MD online....I've done plenty of auto transmission services but not a 68 RFE.

The transmission has never gotten over 200 degree's but since I already bought the pan, I put it on anyhow.

On the You-Tube video,They showed a sheet metal clip to hold the end of the suction filter in the transmission, opposite of the bolt up side so it wont come out....Never knew that was a issue.Didnt have one on it, so the new filter went in without it. Changed the spin on filter with a genuine "Mopar" filter from the dealer..

10 quarts of oil came out total. 12-1/2 back in.

I read a write up on Cummins forum and the fella said it took 3 hours to get the filter "O" ring gasket out of the transmission housing and install the new one..Had I not already dropped the pan, I would have probably skipped the install..LOL Only took 5 minutes to R/R the O ring...Ever so gentle tap on the edge of the O ring enough to deform the O ring and it came right out.

The magnet in the bottom of the stock pan had a little bit of material on it. I did notice the oil had some "metallic" particals in it. Probably normal for a new transmission break in.
All in all it went well. It does seem to shift better. Thats probably my imagination.

Once I tow with it, I'll see if it makes any temp difference at all, not that it needs to run any cooler.

 

[Jim W]

Do you have a gage to read the transmission temps?

With my truck I did reach 220F once on the Needles Highway (87) in SD. I was driving down hill using the exhaust brake and transmission to slow the truck down and was using the service brakes very sparingly with no trailer behind me. Since I installed the Mag-Hytec pan I have never seen temperatures over 200F even when towing normally around 180F. My temperature probe is in the pan port that Mag-Hyrec provides.

Jim W.

 

[Bug Out]

The temp is the factory gauge. The 2013's as I am told have 2 transmission coolers which is what the "Max-Tows" of 2012 had. I'm interested to see myself when I tow the 16.9K beast behind her.

 

[SnoKing]

Post without pictures mean nothing! We want pictures! I just freshen my transmission!

#ad


Snoking

 

[Cummins12V98]

That is purrr deee!

How does it feel?

 

[SnoKing]

Details are in my other thread on the transmission rebuild. Chris

 

[Cummins12V98]

Details are in my other thread on the transmission rebuild. Chris

That is too far to go.

 

[gsbrockman]

I read a write up on Cummins forum and the fella said it took 3 hours to get the filter "O" ring gasket out of the transmission housing and install the new one..

Wonder who that was....

 

[Bug Out]

Since you asked, its our secret....

"The sump filter also came with a new o-ring seal where the neck goes into the transmission. They send a replacement for a reason......so I then spend the next 3 hours or so trying to remove the old one. Knowing what I know now.....the old one would still be in there. Anyway, after more cussin' and spittin' the new o-ring is in."

I have to say, that paragraph and "that fellas" write up made me almost put the pan back on and call it quits !!

 

[transe]

FYI guys....

When replacing the main sump filter, just check the old seal (in the pump bore) to make sure it isn't nicked or damaged, and that it's still tight in the bore (can't be popped out easily with your finger). If it's OK, I'd recommend just leaving it in place. There are two reasons for this:

(1) If you pry the old seal out with a tool (like a screwdriver), it's easy to damage (gouge) the seal bore.
(2) It can be a real challenge to get the new seal properly installed into the bore. The metal flange on the seal should be FLUSH against the pump housing all the way around (not tilted in the bore at all). It is best to use an appropriately-sized socket to tamp the seal into place. If you get the new seal tilted in the bore, you WILL have problems.

So for these two reasons (primarily #2), I would just re-use the old seal if it isn't damaged.

 

[gsbrockman]

FYI guys....

When replacing the main sump filter, just check the old seal (in the pump bore) to make sure it isn't nicked or damaged, and that it's still tight in the bore (can't be popped out easily with your finger). If it's OK, I'd recommend just leaving it in place. There are two reasons for this:

(1) If you pry the old seal out with a tool (like a screwdriver), it's easy to damage (gouge) the seal bore.
(2) It can be a real challenge to get the new seal properly installed into the bore. The metal flange on the seal should be FLUSH against the pump housing all the way around (not tilted in the bore at all). It is best to use an appropriately-sized socket to tamp the seal into place. If you get the new seal tilted in the bore, you WILL have problems.

So for these two reasons (primarily #2), I would just re-use the old seal if it isn't damaged.

I read a few articles on servicing the 68RFE.....and the reason it took me so long was I did not have a pick for use, and I did not want to do as noted in #1 of TransEngineer's post. In any event........service #2 went well as I left the seal alone. A side benefit of Service #1 was an extended drain time.....if I recall correctly, I did replace between 10.5 and 11.0 quarts of good ol' ATF+4.

 

[Bug Out]

Thats how I stumbled across your post. I got nothing from TDR via google..I always like to research as much as possible before hands on my 40K+ pick'em up truck..