Replacing an injector or the solenoid question on 5.9 in a 2007 engine.

[HerbW]

I have a P0204 and P2149 codes in my truck and it's running terrible. After research, I think it may be injector #4 or my wiring harness to 4,5,6. Does the fuel line and feed nozzle in the side to the injector need removal before I can pull out the injector? Can I just lift off the solenoid carefully off the top of the injector and put a new one on if it tests bad? Anybody know off hand the torque specs for the valve cover and the two injector bolts? Maybe a dumb question but I'd like to fix it myself if possible. Thanks, Herb

 

[Gonzo 1066]

I dont think that the solenoid is field replaceable, *(I could be wrong) I would recommend sending the set into a reputable shop for a reman.

 

[sag2]

This is everything you probably need to know.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ghlight=photos

 

[HerbW]

This is everything you probably need to know.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...ghlight=photos

Saga2, I can't figure out how to see the link you sent. I see on EBay I can buy a new injector solenoid for 72 dollars. I think my injector should be fine. I'm hoping somebody local carries them. Looks lie a quick fix. IF I go that way I should take pictures of it and post my results.
My number four injector is open tested with an ohm meter. All the rest are about two ohms.

 

[mfurrh55]

go up to top of page and in the search box type in ghlight photos, and the link will come up,disregard, they still don't come up Monte

 

[sag2]

OK, brought it back to the top in 5.9 engine and trans.

 

[mfurrh55]

Wow, That is a great write up Sag2, i think i'll archive it for future use, Monte

 

[HerbW]

Hi guys,
My 3500 Mega truck is fixed and getting 20 MPGs! I bought an injector solenoid on Ebay for my truck. I was able to field replace it. Well actually I did it in my pole barn. LOL

1. First I removed the two rocker assemblies and the two wires to the bad solenoid which was #4. The little connection nuts are fastened to the wires! Nice!
2. I put a shop towel around the push rods in case something flies it doesn't go in the engine.
3. I used a pair of parallel pliers reaching under the valve cover gasket to break loose the nut on the solenoid mounted on the injector top. I used pliers as I couldn't find anything that fit. Now I know the socket size and will not need to use again! See next step.
4. I carefully removed the bad solenoid and nut off the injector. While off I discovered that a 12 point 1 1/16th inch deep wheel socket will fit the solenoid nut.
5. I put the solenoid nut on the new one and carefully set it over the injector and screwed it down. I then tightened it 15 Ft Lbs using 12 point socket. It fits a little sloppy but worked great! MUST be a 12 point!
6. I reassembled everything where it came from and installed the valve cover. I checked the valve lash while there! Why not while there!
7. The truck cleared all my trouble codes and runs great again!
8. Total cost was less than $100! I also bought a Torks Tool injector nozzle remover just in case! Check it out on Youtube!

 

[mfurrh55]

glad to hear you got it fixed , Thanks for letting us know what was wrong and how to fix, Monte

 

[CKelley1]

herb everyone, even ddp has told me "you can not change out the solenoid without special tools and complex calibration that we can only do." this makes me so mad I can't see straight. glad you posted this

 

[HerbW]

Changing the solenoid out has zero affect on the spray nozzles etc. I just put a new electro magnet basically to operate the precise stuff the injector does. The new solenoid metered identical to the other good ones. The injector people have a good business there that they don't want you in it! CKelly, sorry they got you. I'm building me a travel kit with the right sockets and a spare solenoid to field fix my truck in a breakdown or yours to get going again. I'm glad I may of shed some light for future. Herb

 

[HerbW]

By the way Guys,
The only reason I used pliers to get it off the first time is I couldn't find a socket to fit. The then took the nut to auto parts to find a match. Note that the keeper on the rocker is made of plastic and can be broke and the bar that pushes the two valves are directional. There is a spot on one side. Put it back right and your valves are still adjusted as they were! Enjoy

 

[CKelley1]

herb last night I took one of the injectors that had a bad solenoid and removed it like you said with a 1 1/16 socket, like you said there is nothing to calibrate. would there have been enough room for the socket without removing the exhaust rocker. also I cut the solenoid into to see how it is built boy was I surprised it is a copper wire, not crystal like I thought. I found the problem and now know how they fail and why they exhibit resistance change. the two post are connected to copper arms with a fork on the end. the coil around a powder ferric cylinder has two small square tapered post that when the two halve are put together the post wedges through the forks to make contact. on one side of mine the post did not line up with the center of the fork and had bent and was touching the bottom, I could see where it arked and the reason for the 13 ohms. I am going to get me one as a spare for the next time. again I am glad you posted.

 

[HerbW]

CKelly1, This has made my day! Let's share it with others and the solenoids will be more readily available with demand for them. I'm getting another solenoid and putting the socket and it in my truck as part of a travel kit. Next one I do I will film the ease and put on Youtube! Unless you beat me to the punch! LOL Enjoy, Herb

 

[cerberusiam]

I cut the solenoid into to see how it is built boy was I surprised it is a copper wire, not crystal like I thought.

:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf

 

[Bob4x4]

:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf

I think I must have told him that in about a million different threads lol