#4 Cyl. Fuel Line Leak - no visible Pin Hole/Crack.

[WalterJ]

My #4 fuel line leaked & forced a long tow [out of state] for repair after the weekend passed. I don't recall when I previously developed a leak, possibly #6n cyc.? that was ID'd in a recall 3-4 years ago. This #4 line is short & did have an 'anti vibration' bracket.

I'll take it to my local diesel shop when we return from vacation, to see where/how the leak developed. These apparent vibration induced [cold working] tubing failures errodes my long term/long trip confidence. We're contemplating WI to AK journey and wonder if replacing these 'old' lines is something anyone did or would recommend? Thanks for watching.

Bst regards,
Wally

 

[seafish]

The #4 injection line is a COMMON failure on these trucks. There is now an updated #4 fuel line available from Cummins. It uses a different kind of bracket to keep it from vibrating.You can buy it from Genos garage for about $40.
What many people do, myself included, is to buy and install the updated #4 line BEFORE the oem line fails, then keep the older #4 injection line in the truck as a a rteadily available spare.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I also put a film of high pressure grease on the shoulder of the tip, and on the threads, so the line won't be twisted when the nuts are tightened.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Get a complete set for cheap from Geno's! Put them right beside your water pump, belt and spare tensioner.

 

[S.Morris]

+1 on what DFitzwater said

 

[Prairie Dog]

The #4 injection line is a COMMON failure on these trucks. There is now an updated #4 fuel line available from Cummins. It uses a different kind of bracket to keep it from vibrating.You can buy it from Genos garage for about $40.
What many people do, myself included, is to buy and install the updated #4 line BEFORE the oem line fails, then keep the older #4 injection line in the truck as a a rteadily available spare.

Me too.
This is such a simple and cheap thing to do that it just doesn't make sense to push it.
Just replace it now ($26 from Cummins) and head off having a problem on the side of the road.

 

[FJfonda]

I also put a film of high pressure grease on the shoulder of the tip, and on the threads, so the line won't be twisted when the nuts are tightened.

I will be doing a full set on my truck due to northeast corrosion, and special tools, tips, or procedures in addition to the FSM procedure?

 

[FJfonda]

I will be doing a full set on my truck due to northeast corrosion, and special tools, tips, or procedures in addition to the FSM procedure?

I asked before looking, my bad -- info was readily available in the TDR Resource:

Fuel injection lines, replacing, instructions for
Issue 62 (5.9 HPCR) Joe Donnelly acknowledges that injection lines occasionally fail, especially
for cylinders #4 and #6, and gives instructions and lists tools for replacing. 34

 

[WalterJ]

seafish--Guess I was a day late on that move...

 

[sag2]

If going on a long trip in the middle of nowhere, pick up a block off tool and you can fix any line that leaks without having to carry six extra lines. When you get to a good spot buy and replace the bad line. You will barely know it is only running on 5 cylinders.

 

[JJPage]

very true ^, you can also fabricate block off devices with a defective/cracked line, if you're too cheap to buy the block off tool. Bend or crimp the cracked line just past the hold down nut(s) and braze the line shut, carry them with you and install when needed.

 

[STEVEBROOKS]

Can anybody recommend a maximum length of operating time for a capped-off injector? I'm concerned about operating one without fuel (ie, lubrication) being run through it.

Steve

 

[Prairie Dog]

Can anybody recommend a maximum length of operating time for a capped-off injector? I'm concerned about operating one without fuel (ie, lubrication) being run through it.

Steve

This isn't very scientific but I installed a new set of injectors (BD) on my old truck and one of them was dead. I wen't on a trip and towed our 4500# TT a couple of thousand miles that way and did a lot of damage to the trans.
I would say if you can feel a pronounced miss, especially when starting from a stand still, that you should proceed with extreme caution.

 

[sag2]

If you are really in a bind and have to go a long way, you can always pull the valve cover and remove the injector wires. It really should not be much of an issue as the solenoid does not lift the pintle itself, the fuel pressure inside the injector does. I would not really worry about it.

 

[Bob4x4]

On the bend and or brazing I am not sure that is a good idea,I have seen a couple of those fail that had been tigged by very good welders

 

[JJPage]

On the bend and or brazing I am not sure that is a good idea,I have seen a couple of those fail that had been tigged by very good welders

Never said it was a good idea , only if you were too cheap to buy the correct tool :-laf. And in a pinch out in the boondocks, you could make it back to town...unless you criticized the process, then you may not get to use my oxy/acetylene pack :-laf. Jess

 

[Jack in Alaska]

Get a complete set for cheap from Geno's! Put them right beside your water pump, belt and spare tensioner.

I just returned (last night) to Alaska from Az. I had replaced the water pump, belt, tensioner and no.4 injector line. The truck did fine on the 4100 mile run except my new clutch started to slip when getting on it on hills. I was towing a 8000 lb. boat.
Why did the clutch start to slip?? Only 10k miles on it.

 

[seafish]

What clutch did you go with?? If it was the oem replacement, rather then an aftermarket upgrade, more then likely the answer is in your signature-- Smarty Jr.

 

[Jack in Alaska]

slipping clutch

What clutch did you go with?? If it was the oem replacement, rather then an aftermarket upgrade, more then likely the answer is in your signature-- Smarty Jr.

I had to put in a OEM clutch due to time and availability problems. I knew at the time that it was a mistake but (always those damn buts) one lives and learns. My son tried to talk me into waiting for an upgraded clutch but no, I had to get the truck back on the road, could not wait.

I believe you are correct. The S Jr. is on 2 and provides plenty of power. Apparently more than the clutch can hold. The original one held on 2 but slipped on 3 when hammering the throttle with a load going uphill. Tomorrow it will go back to 1 and I will NOT slip the clutch again, I hope.

Thanks for your input.