Rust repair opinion

[jgillott]

I recently took my '07 in to Ziebart for it's annual rust proof inspection. They found several small areas of rust above the driver's side rear wheel. I knew that there were a few paint bubbles starting in that area, but I didn't realize how bad it was getting. Surprisingly, Ziebart's warranty will likely cover the cost of repair. They gave me an information packet on how to process the claim which included getting 2 estimates. One was from Ziebart's authorized repair center in the area and one from an independent shop. Ziebart will only pay for the rust area to be patched in instead of replacing the panel. The quotes from both shops came in well over $1000 to weld in a patch panel, do the body work, and respray the bed side.

The entire area in question is no bigger than a few inches wide. But, both body shops suggested not going with the patch panel but instead replacing the entire bed side with a new mopar replacement if I plan on keeping the truck for any length of time. The overall cost will be several hundred more than what Ziebart's warranty will cover. I had originally planned on replacing this truck this year. But, with some changes here at home, It looks like I will be holding on to it for a while longer.

Do you think it is worth the extra cost to replace the entire bed side? I have no problem paying for it. But it seems like a little overkill to cut that entire bed apart for such a small spot.

 

[CRodi]

I'm not that familiar with body work, but, I was wondering if the patch will cover all of the rusted area? If it does, you should be OK. I wonder why both shops suggested replacing the entire body side? Obviously, at first it would seem that there's a bigger profit margin for replacing the entire side, but perhaps it would be less labour involved in replacing the entire bed side. It comes down to labour cost vs. material cost. Some times it's more cost effective to replace, instead of repair panels, although I can't imagine replacing the bed side would be less labour intensive than the patch repair.

Sorry if I raised more questions instead of answers.

If the body repair tech is good at what he does, and the patch will cover all of the rusted are, I would go with the patch repair.

 

[RikDavis]

Back in a past life when I helped out in a body shop bubbles in the paint usually indicated rust and you could poke an ice pick thru the fender.

There is the possibility of a paint defect. I have had a few bubbles over the wheel well on my 99 for 8 or more years, While I haven't done the ice pick thing the bubbles also haven't gotten worse so I suspect a paint defect.as in this length of time i should have a hole there

 

[CBari]

I don't really have an answer for you but just another question, which is if you just patch it another rust spot shows up will their warranty cover it. Also at what point will the warranty cover a whole panel. My thought process on this obviously if you pay and replace the whole panel it should be several years before it would rust, but if you just patch and another spot or two shows up down the road they might opt to pay for a whole panel next time and you would have wasted your money. Just my thoughts.

 

[jhenderson]

A lot of these trucks have rust problems over the wheel wells. Mine is starting. The design traps debris between the fender and inner structure. Patch panels are available that replace the affected area. That is what I'm going to do, but mine is a 360,000 mile work truck. If I could replace the entire side panel for a few hundred more I would but a neighbor will do the work for $500 for me so that's the repair for me.

 

[jgillott]

Here's the area in question. Not a real clear picture but it gives you the idea.

 

[jgillott]

Both shops told me that in their experience, the patch panels will rust out very quickly around the welds when they install them. One shop said that I would be lucky to get 2 years out of the repair, the other told me 2-3 years in this salt. The quotes seem very high to me, but they must be accurate. To do the patch panel, the two quotes came it at $1400 and $1275. Both places said that they could do the bed side in the ~$1600 range.

I believe that Ziebart will only cover the truck for 10 years. I'll have to get out the paperwork and look for sure. But there is a chance that it will be out of warranty before this would happen again. This truck only has 77K on it and is otherwise near perfect. I am really leaning toward having the bed side replaced for all the difference it will be in cost.

 

[Hoefler]

When paint bubbles from rust through, the rust originated on the inside and corroded outward. Most Likely, when opened it up, you will find the rust is much more extensive than first thought. Cutting out the rusted metal to find solid metal will leave a very large hole to cover up. When welding in the new patch, you will burn off any of the remaining factory coatings and the Ziebart coatings as well. The new metal and the areas affected by the repair will rust rather quickly and eat through like before. The whole panel is the best way to go for longevity.

 

[crispyboy]

I would opt for the panel replacement. It will mean more in the long run whether you keep the truck or could help the resale in the future. If I were purchasing a used truck I would feel better as a buyer if the entire panel had been replaced.
As others have stated patch panels seem to show up quickly in the future when exposed to the elements.

 

[JR]

Either way they will have to weld on the truck, replacing the entire panel may actually include almost as much welding but the difference is it will be in iinconspicuous places not all the way across the panel. Probably the biggest bonus to a new panel is you won't have a quarter panel full of bondo. The quality is much better than 20 years ago and a good body shop will make it so you never knew it was there but there's always the chance of it cracking down the road, especially if the patch panel starts rusting around the weld seams.

 

[mwilson]

Another vote to replace the entire bedside. Anything else is a time bomb. JMHO.

Mike.

 

[jgillott]

Thanks for the responses guys. I am definately going to try and replace the bed side if possible.

I just placed the paperwork for Ziebart in the mail and I hope to hear someting back from them within the next few weeks. As long as they accept the estimates, I should be good to go.

 

[mweiman]

I also would vote to replace the entire bedside, it just seems like anywhere a repair like that is made won't last in the salt. Will Ziebart recoat it for you after the repair?

 

[DClark]

Have you considered looking for a recycled entire bed. You may even find one that is of the right color to match. It is a simple unbolt, remove old bed and install and rebolt replacement bed. I have seen good used beds for less then the prices you have been quoted for the repair. Check it out. Try car-parts.com

 

[jgillott]

I also would vote to replace the entire bedside, it just seems like anywhere a repair like that is made won't last in the salt. Will Ziebart recoat it for you after the repair?

Yes, they are going to respray the rustproofing after it is fixed. If I read everything correctly, there is a final respray and inspection back at the Ziebart dealer as part of the process.

Have you considered looking for a recycled entire bed. You may even find one that is of the right color to match. It is a simple unbolt, remove old bed and install and rebolt replacement bed. I have seen good used beds for less then the prices you have been quoted for the repair. Check it out. Try car-parts.com

I actually asked that question at the Ziebart authorized body shop when I got the estimate. He said that the likelyhood of finding a good used bed close enough to make it cost effective when you factor shipping is slim. I'll take a look on car-parts.com though.

 

[mwilson]

A used take off bed could have the same issue lurking just under the skin. I have seen waaaay too many 3rd Gens up here with the same problem.

There is some kind of crap trap in there that is holding the road chemicals and sand.

Mike.

 

[jgillott]

A used take off bed could have the same issue lurking just under the skin. I have seen waaaay too many 3rd Gens up here with the same problem.

There is some kind of crap trap in there that is holding the road chemicals and sand.

Mike.

Mike, I don't know how true it is, but the guy at the Ziebart body shop told me there is some sort of foam material between the inside and outside layers of those panels that hold moisture like a sponge. I've never had one apart to know if he is correct.

On a side note, he had a 2009 4th gen 1/2 ton in the shop that he showed me when I was there. Both front fenders rotted through just above and to the rear of the front tires, basically just below where the cummins or hemi badges would be. Signs of things to come for the new trucks.

 

[AKorn]

Just a suggestion, in case you'd want to consider a temporary fix...

I had the same problem on my truck (rust bubbles). I installed a set of Mopar fender flares to hide the issue. Prior to installing the flares, I used a flapper disk to remove as much rust as I could. I then put on a couple coats of primer & Duplicolor touch-up spray paint to (hopefully) slow down the rust. I will plan to remove the flares on an annual basis to check on the condition of the fenders & clean them up as needed. I actually like how the fender flares look, so I'm pretty happy with this solution.

 

[jgillott]

Just a suggestion, in case you'd want to consider a temporary fix...

I had the same problem on my truck (rust bubbles). I installed a set of Mopar fender flares to hide the issue. Prior to installing the flares, I used a flapper disk to remove as much rust as I could. I then put on a couple coats of primer & Duplicolor touch-up spray paint to (hopefully) slow down the rust. I will plan to remove the flares on an annual basis to check on the condition of the fenders & clean them up as needed. I actually like how the fender flares look, so I'm pretty happy with this solution.

Not a bad suggestion at all. In fact, that is probably what I am going to do if for some reason, Ziebart decides to deny or delay the warranty claim.

 

[Karter]

Mike, I don't know how true it is, but the guy at the Ziebart body shop told me there is some sort of foam material between the inside and outside layers of those panels that hold moisture like a sponge. I've never had one apart to know if he is correct...

I just had my 06 rear wheel wells cutout and replaced by a shop that has done many of them and they said the same thing about the foam. They undercoat the crap out of it afterward and don't reconnect the brace that catches all the salt and grime. Supposedly this keeps it cleaned out and they haven't had any redos since using this method.