2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cargo Box RFemoval for 2500 long bed

[RMcKinney]

I need to service the fuel lines on a completely stock 1995 2500 4WD.
The fuel Heater has been plumbed around a long time ago so that part is nothing to worry about.
Cargo bed removal seems to be the way to go.
Can one person without a lift get the 8" bed out of the way far enough to access the fuel Tank fittings?
Not worried about scratches.
RMcKinney

 

[Bill Stockard]

I need to service the fuel lines on a completely stock 1995 2500 4WD.
The fuel Heater has been plumbed around a long time ago so that part is nothing to worry about.
Cargo bed removal seems to be the way to go.
Can one person without a lift get the 8" bed out of the way far enough to access the fuel Tank fittings?
Not worried about scratches.
RMcKinney

Check THIS thread.

Bill

 

[VolsFan]

It is simple. I did it by myself so I know anyone can do it so long as you have a shop you can back the truck in. Just take out the bed bolts (6 maybe) and remove taillight harness, I screwed in hooks to ceiling joists and hooked ratchet straps to all four corners and cranked. It worked. Was living in PA in isolation and had to practice some ingenuity, no friendly folks around for help, had to be creative in those years. Recall had to grind two bolts and cut through cross member new bolts were $ from dodge

 

[DMather]

Can one person without a lift get the 8" bed out of the way far enough to access the fuel Tank fittings?
Not worried about scratches.
RMcKinney

Maybe... If you release the drivers side and loosen the passenger side you might be able to tilt the box up from the drivers side enough to reach the fuel tank fittings.

However.... having removed my bed just yesterday (2002 2500 QC LB) I can tell you that 3 burly or 4 normal people can pick up the bed and walk it off the back. It has some weight but it is the bulkiness that is the bigger problem.

Disconnect taillights at the back (inline connector) and the ground strap at the front (10mm). Release any wiring harness clips that are attached to the bed.
Remove the 8 15mm bolts, 4 at the rear and 4 at the front, holding the bed to the frame. (in my case I also had 10 additional 3/4" bolts holding the 5th wheel mounting rails to the bed/frame)
Detach the fuel filler from the bed. (phillips)
Lift bed off frame.

The main reason for my removal is to replace the brake line, blast and POR15 the frame.
I still haven't decided if I want to drop the 60 gallon tank to make it even easier..... (if it were empty..it would be out already)

 

[fest3er]

If you have an ATV lift, I think it's a whole lot easier to drop the fuel tank.

• Put the left side of the truck up on jack stands.
• Remove the center support bearing mount to access the front tank strap bolt.
• Put a couple 2x4s on the ATV lift to spread the weight of the tank.
• Strap the tank to the lift to prevent it from slipping/falling off; it needn't be terribly snug.
• Lower it a couple inches, then remove the various connections (electrical, lines, hoses).
• Lower it all the way and roll the tank out from under the truck.

You now have nice access to all the brake and fuel lines. You may be showered with Eau de Numéro Deux (diesel mechanic's cologne) a time or two, but there is enough room to sit up under the truck (unless you're 6'5" or so). and the lift makes it a one-man job.

 

[RMcKinney]

At 1/8 Full

If you have an ATV lift, I think it's a whole lot easier to drop the fuel tank.

• Put the left side of the truck up on jack stands.
• Remove the center support bearing mount to access the front tank strap bolt.
• Put a couple 2x4s on the ATV lift to spread the weight of the tank.
• Strap the tank to the lift to prevent it from slipping/falling off; it needn't be terribly snug.
• Lower it a couple inches, then remove the various connections (electrical, lines, hoses).
• Lower it all the way and roll the tank out from under the truck.

You now have nice access to all the brake and fuel lines. You may be showered with Eau de Numéro Deux (diesel mechanic's cologne) a time or two, but there is enough room to sit up under the truck (unless you're 6'5" or so). and the lift makes it a one-man job.

I lifted the Driver side enough that I got to the Tank connections. The lift line from the lift pump had a crack right at the connection-cut it out and I'm running.
When the fuel gets to 1/8 full I'll remout the tank so i can replace both rubber hoses at the tank.
Thanks for your Time
RMcKinney

 

[hcole]

RMckinney, I've done this to take out the fuel module. I took all 4? bolts holding the bed on, took the spare tire off and unclipped the tail light harness, (didn't disconnect ANY plugs or lights and then took rubber plugs out of bottom of bed at the front of bed and used a chain with hooks to lift the front of the bed up about 3 feet and then I was able to access the module and take it out, I made my own draw straw and reused everything including module gasket and plastic nut. I reused the fuel fittings too. I tapped the big nut loose with a screwdriver and hammer. The rear of the bed rested on the back bumper. Did almost all of it by myself with a chain fall.

 

[DMather]

FWIW, having just removed the bed to clean up the rear chassis.....AND having dropped the fuel tank to replace rear brake line....

In the future, if I have to do anything with the fuel module... I will be going after it by removing the bed. Even with the 5th wheel hitch mount I found it to be less hassle than dropping the tank.