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How is the in-tank fuel pump conversion working for you?

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What to watch for in 03-04's

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Just put my truck in the shop for a bad fuel leak and they want to move the fuel pump from the side of the engine to the tank.

I know a lot of trucks have been converted and just wondered what if any problems could be expected.

Thanks
 
As long as they are using oem parts and are also competent mechanics, the in tank conversion is a definite upgrade to the filter canisiter mounted pump in terms of longevity. Being immersed in diesel keeps the pump lubricated and cooled MUCH more then the filter mounted one which greatly increases the lifespan of the in tank pump.
 
Thanks seafish. It is a Dodge dealer, so I would hope they are competent and use oem parts! They have worked on my truck before with good results.
 
7 or so years and 86000 miles since mine was changed out. Outside the dealer apparently bending my float assembly , appears to be working fine .
 
Thanks seafish. It is a Dodge dealer, so I would hope they are competent and use oem parts! They have worked on my truck before with good results.

So the only thing you might want to consider after the replacement is to add additional 2 micron fuel filtration. If you can afford it, the dealer wil install a frame mounted Mopar SDFK kit for about $600, but you can do it for ALOT less by puttignt the parts together yourself, or even installing an aftremarket kit from Glacier Diesel Power or Vulcan Performance. The GDP kit is top notch in fit and finish and is fairlyu easy to install if you are even slightly mechanically inclined.

Contrary to popular belief of some, the in-tank LP has NO problem pumping through two addtional filters and still maintain adequate pressure.


Check out my install here--

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/242753-FINALLY-have-TRIPLE-fuel-filtration-on-my-truck!!!


Or even better, check out the MOAFFT (Mother Of All Fuel Filter Threads) here--

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...ers-gdp-w-cat-2-micron-fuel-water-sep-96.html
 
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Intank the way to go . I have 04.5 and pump failed at 70k this one still purring at 158k on clock. Filtration is important
 
OK. Just looked at the GDP site and their 2 micron system says not recommended for trucks with Jacobs Exhaust brakes. Guess what I have on my truck. :(


At one time I thought someone (CAT?) was making a 2 micron drop-in cartridge that fit our stock filter housing. Was I dreaming?? I hate getting old :-laf.

Thanks again everyone.
 
Well the first thing you van do is run the Baldwin PF7977 in the oem filkter canister...it is a 7mic nominal filter that is definitely a step up from the oem. It is the best filter for the oem location. CAT does not make drop in 2 micc, though alot of people run the CAT 1R-0750 cartridge on their GDP or other aftermarket feilter head.

In any case, I would call Rich at GDP and see what else he might have that would still work on your truckIf nothing else, you could run additional an 2 stage F/W seaprator and 2 mic filter mounted on the frame in front of the fuel tank. That is also where the Mopar SDFK mounts.
 
Thanks again seafish. I have been running the Baldwin filter for quite some time now. At least I got that part right!

cerberusiam, I think that GDP unit would work. Will have to check when I get the truck back. Isn't that embarrassing? Not even sure where my APPS is. Not even sure what an APPS is, but if I remember right, there is nothing in that space.

Also found this: http://www.cumminscatfuelfilter.com/ Anyone running this unit?

Which would be better for my engine? Which would be easier to install? I am fairly mechanical, but if something goes wrong or doesn't work right when I am done, it is a long ways back to any decent shop to fix my flubs. Also, only have basic hand tools, nothing fancy. Just a workbench in a single car garage and a driveway.

Thanks again everyone for all your help.

Our driveway looks really naked without the Dodge parked in it!! Will be glad to get it back.
 
Unless he has the APPS there on his 2003.

Yep, but, since he has an NV5600 there is better than even chance the APPS is under the battery.

The other choice with an APPS is mount the filter underneath on the frame rail, just not enough room under the hood for a good mounting spot. Mounting a fine solids filter on the frame rail without a fuel heater in the base is a crap shoot when the chance sof getting into cold weather or slush or icing conditions is present. Even with treated fuel, the exposed 3-4 um filters have a tenedency to plug in cold weather. ULSD separates much easier than LSD so the wax content ends up plugging the filters if they are exposed to snow, ice, and\or constant cold air.

Fleetguard makes a base that includes a fuel heater that will fit right in the double filter setup. The bets p[lace for the fne filter is just in front of the CP-3 if it is possible though.
 
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So is your current lift pump giving you problems? If not, why spend the $$ to fix a non-problem.

My '03 still have the filter mounted pump, and is going strong at ~125,000 miles. When it does fail, the replacement is cheap and much easier to change out than the tank mounted pump.
 
So is your current lift pump giving you problems? If not, why spend the $$ to fix a non-problem.

Because the filter mounted pump is a POS that is prone to failure and the replacements are even worse. Mounted in the tank it is cooled by diesel and delivers fuel much more consistently with less isues. Given the install is done correctly and using the good pump the in-tanks almost never fail.
 
Because the filter mounted pump is a POS that is prone to failure and the replacements are even worse.

Is there any data to support these claims? I know it is internet lore that these pumps are crap, but my very small sample size (population one), is showing otherwise.

Given that I live in AZ, you would think the high temps would have killed mine long ago.

Why do you say the replacements are worse? I thought they were made by the OE, so they should be of the same quality as the factory unit.

Mounted in the tank it is cooled by diesel and delivers fuel much more consistently with less isues. Given the install is done correctly and using the good pump the in-tanks almost never fail.

No argument here, but is it worth the $$ to change over if the filter-mounted pump is proving to be reliable?

I guess if mine had failed repeatedly I would be more of a proponent to do so. I also hate dropping fuel tanks to replace pumps. Much easier to get to the fuel filter housing. If you carry a spare, you could reasonably expect to be able to change it out on the side of the road with normal hand tools.
 
In that same vein, you could say the VP44 was not as problematic as it is either. Anybody that had to replace them multiple knows the fallacy of that statment. Same with the LP's on the filter housings. As a rule they are a problem and will fail at the most inopportune time. Consistently. They are barely adequate for stock power an fail miserably with added power where the in-tanks will support a decent power upgrade.

Actually living in AZ is what probably saves your from failure. Try to suck cold diesle in below 20 degree temps will kill them faster than anything. Sucking warm diesel is much easier than cold, that is a given. In warm climates the failure rate is lower becasue of the lack of environmental swings they see.

Any replacement pump has been less quality than OE for years, the replacement market just never met what the OE quality was and those pumps are NS1. The original filter mounted reciprocating piston pumps were better than anything but they went along a lot of other quality to cost cuts. The vane pumps with electronc controls on them are just not the same quality.

No argument on the in-tank pumps being harder to change, but, when seldom fail and deliver better performance it becomes a tradeoff of pros and cons.
 
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LOL, that is what happens when you live in the banana belt. One forgets all about that -40 on occasion. :)
 
My in tank pump failed a couple of months ago. About 50k on the oem pump, then about 50k on the in tank pump. I took snokings advice and had a FASS installed. How it lasts longer than 50k miles
 
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