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I couldn't sleep at all last night...new injectors.

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Well, it finally happened at 217k miles; I lost my #3 injector. Reading the many posts and taking Cerb's advice, I sprung for a six-pack of new, stock Bosch's with new tubes from a reputable outfit. This is not a daily driver but my tow truck for the fiver. With tears in my eyes I explained to Jennifer that shortly we would be full-timers and couldn't afford to take the chance of this happening on the open road in the middle of no-where.

Somebody tell me I did the right thing.

- Ed
 
You made the right choice. Have the valve lash set while they are in there. Now would also be the time to consider better final filtration if you don't already have it.
 
Thanks, I feel better. I ran the overhead not too long ago but with the injector change-out I think they are suppose to be re-checked.

When I talked with the tech at Exergy he cautioned me about adding the Glacier 2-micron filter between the primary filter and the CP3 due to the age of my in-tank stock fuel pump although that pump is pretty much foolproof. I hadn't considered this and I think I will go with the Baldwin PF-7977 5-micron filter in the primary in stead. I hate to add a fuel pressure gauge for lack of space/aggravation.

What is your thinking?

- Ed
 
Ed, the more we read on these forums the more we see the importance of better filtration. I don't think its wise not to add a second filter because of your lift pump. If it goes out, it goes out. Injectors are too expensive to not give them what they need to live longer....bad fuel is everywhere, you never know. Now is the time to do it with your new injectors. If your worried about the in-tank lift pump, get something exterior. After my factory lift pump died I installed a little walbro from Glacier and its been flawless. It was so reasonably priced that I bought a spare and keep it in my truck, and that was many years and miles ago! Hope this helps!
 
Ed, the more we read on these forums the more we see the importance of better filtration. I don't think its wise not to add a second filter because of your lift pump. If it goes out, it goes out. Injectors are too expensive to not give them what they need to live longer....bad fuel is everywhere, you never know. Now is the time to do it with your new injectors. If your worried about the in-tank lift pump, get something exterior. After my factory lift pump died I installed a little walbro from Glacier and its been flawless. It was so reasonably priced that I bought a spare and keep it in my truck, and that was many years and miles ago! Hope this helps!

I did this too. But I fear the spare pump will never get used. Good problem to have. Couple of hand tools and 10 minutes, I could have it changed out on the side of the road.
 
The Baldwin P7977 in the stock canister will definitely help, but there is no question that adding a 2 mic kit (like the one from GDP or make your own) in between the canister and the CP3 is an even better idea. 217k miles before the first injector failure is not bad at all, but with better filtration protecting your injector investment you'll go even further, and better yet, have MUCH more peace of mind while on the road. The GDP kit is reasonably priced for the quality of the kit and ease of install, thoug hyou can put the parts together yourself for less then $100 if you are mechanically inclined.
 
Seafish, your signature didn't include an after market fuel pump. Are you running the Glacier 2 mic kit with the stock in-tank pump, and if so are you monitoring fuel pressure?
- Ed
 
Seafish, your signature didn't include an after market fuel pump. Are you running the Glacier 2 mic kit with the stock in-tank pump, and if so are you monitoring fuel pressure?
- Ed

All of the above...my stock oem intank LP pumps through a modified SDFK 10mic water separator/filter mounted on the frame rail, then pushes through a Baldwin P7977 (7mic) in the stock engine compartment filter canister, and finally through a cylinder head mounted GDP 2 mic kit. I have a pressure gauge mounted at the frame mount filter and the GDP filter to monitor pressure differences from the first to last filter so that I can determine when to change filters.
The stock LP has maintained 9psi since the install a couple years ago.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/242753-FINALLY-have-TRIPLE-fuel-filtration-on-my-truck!!!

To do my modifications, I used the ideas presented by AH64ID in the mother of all fuel filtration threads--

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...ilters-gdp-w-cat-2-micron-fuel-water-sep.html
 
Hah! Prairie Dog, the sticker price is shocking for an old country boy! That's why all this discussion concerning additional filtration is going on. I don't intend to suffer this thrill but once. I have an auxillary tank in the bed that gravity flows into the OEM tank. I'm filtering and separating water between tanks but I'm about convinced that I'm gonna have to spring for the 2 mic filter between the primary and CP3. I think I read somewhere that the OEM LP has enough umph to push through several filters. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
- Ed
 
Seafish, thanks, and thanks to all the rest of you for your input! I think I've got what I need to make another decision. Ouch! Now where's that damn credit card.....?
- Ed
 
Yes, getting new injectors was the right call if you want some peace of mind. At that mileage and stock filtration they wer eon borrowed time. Too many times the first indication of problems is a lod knocking accompnaied by huge vilume sof white smoke. You do NOT want to deal with that on the road.

Definitely add the 3 um filters between the OE and the CP-3 regardless of the LP age. Protect that investment in injectors at all costs. See above for potential results.

As painful as it is and some drawbacks investing in a FASS from Genos might be your best bet. Getting another water separator in the system and another fuel filter is a positive. The pump being extenral is also a big positive. I am pretty sure the FASS will allow the CP-3 to draw fuel thru it in case of failure and that will get you somewhere with services unlike the in-tank seizing and failing in a closed position. Those pretty much negate the hassle and cost of setting it up and the failures of the motors, at least for peace of mind. A little extra cost for ball valves and line and you can make a bypass. Upgrading the lines from the tank to the pump and the pump to the OE filter housing plus the GDP big line kit makes it a lot easier for the CP-3 to draw fuel by itself. There ar ebenfits in additions to the negatives of the FASS\AD pumps and you just need to decide if they are worth it.
 
Thanks Cerb, I ordered the GDP mic-2 kit. If the LP gives up the ghost I'll just use my Roadside Assist and then get another in-tank unit. From what I've read, the failure rate on the Fass and A/D are perhaps worse than what I've got. But then again, we only see the issues and problems on here.

Running a 'new and improved' system or establishing some type of redundancy is an insurance policy. If the premium is close to the cost of the failure, well I guess it's a flip of the coin, or in this case, a flip of the coins. Now, am I going to trek up the Alcan? I think I'll just stay down here where I'm close to somebody that's pretty decent with a wrench.

Again, thanks to each of you for your input, and yes, I'll probably sleep a lot better tonight.

- Ed
 
Yes, we only hear about the issues and few of the successes. A lot of the failures are simply due to installation failures. The guys at Genos say they rarely warranty a FASS unless ther was some obvious problems with installation. Thats about the best source I have on them. The AD used to be a better unit and they have suffered greatly in th last year or so due to chnages in their build process. Like every thing else, cheaper parts and cheaper aseembly labor leads to issues.
 
If I had it to do over again I would install the in-tank pump but it was not available at the time so I installed a FASS. It was very noisy for the first few years but they cam out with a free kit to fix it. The kit comes with a shorter, softer spring seals and a "wear block". I found it interesting that the original wear block showed absolutely no wear after nearly 50K miles. The mods made the pump acceptable but I still would prefer the to have the in tank setup.
 
How important is the air separator on a filter system. I found a Dodge cat 2 micron filter and water separator for $189 from vulcan performance. what do you guys think
 
IMO, the "air separator" feature on some aftermarket filters is mostly hype...the MOST important thing is quality 2 micron filtration with effective water separation. Vulcan Peformance offer decent kits at good prices, though I prefer the fit and finish of the Glacier Diesel kits.
 
I've had a Fass on my truck since about 160K when I lost my first injector which took a piston with it......Now almost 580K later still running strong. Changed out the first set of injectors at around 300K as I was getting nervous second set went 270K when I lost an injector(I think a soleniod) now I have a set of BB1's in it. Fass replaced the motor on the pump at about 400K as it got real loud been fine ever since.
 
I had the #1 go bad about 2 months ago (code P2146). At the time I just replaced the one that was bad. 290k all stock set up when the first one went. Now the symptoms are beginning to come back (occasional rough idle; this started happening 6 months before the first one completely let go and set the code P2146), so it is about to get the FCA and the other 5 injectors. This should have it good to go. For reference, I am going with Bosch stock remans to the tune of about $2400 installed.
 
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