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Auxillary fuel tank install

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I want to install a 90 gal aux fuel tank in my 2014 Ram described in my signature. The RDS Aluminum tank nr 72745, is a gravity drain into the factory filler neck with a manual shut off and a float ball auto shut off valve. It has no 12 volt pump unless you buy another model or DIY.

Can anybody who has one (or any other brand that uses the gravity feed into the factory filler neck) comment on the time it takes to re-fill from the aux tank?
RDS Aluminum said it was slow but not HOW slow. An hour, a day, overnight??? Also would like to find out about Ram warranty because the factory filler neck has to be cut and a filler line spliced in but I'm going to run it by my dealer too.

The RDS Aluminum factory says you cannot leave the drain valve open all the time because when the Ram computer sees the fuel gauge staying on full too long it assumes the fuel float is broken and shuts off the Ram fuel level gauge. Makes sense. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Links to the tank and install kit.
http://www.rdsaluminum.com/auto-auxiliary.html

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200425613_200425613

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200315501_200315501
 
Tim, I'm very familiar with the RDS system but went with the ATI system because of the dimensions, capacity and the fit between the fifth-wheel and my toolbox. The transfer system is identical. I did add a Baldwin BF1258 filter/water separator that is supposedly a 9-micron filter between the two tanks. Now, just make sure you don't break the seal on the OEM fill-cap when you're transferring fuel from the aux tank. You'll make a mess.

The transfer rate is pretty quick, at least three or four times quicker than you'll be using it. I hesitate to fill both tanks at the same time because I want to pre-filter everything going through my truck. However, if the price is right and I'm almost empty, I fill both tanks at the same time, just making sure to check for a good seal on my OEM fill-cap when I start filling my aux tank.

The system is pretty slick and simple, and I am well pleased with my decision to make the install. Somewhere on here are some pictures that show the tank and how and where I mounted the Baldwin filter. (Sorry, I am not young enough to know how to post that link to this thread; you may have to do a search.) Good luck, and I know you will be well satisfied.

- Ed
 
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Check into the Transfer Flow systems also. I used gravity feed in the 1990s and it was a major pain. Several times I had a puddle on the ground from forgetting to shut off after it finally had transferred enough fuel. On another thread, there is TF's discussion of federal law vs. gravity feed systems. TF all use a pump, easily accessed for replacement if it ever becomes necessary.
 
Tim, I'm very familiar with the RDS system but went with the ATI system because of the dimensions, capacity and the fit between the fifth-wheel and my toolbox. The transfer system is identical. I did add a Baldwin BF1258 filter/water separator that is supposedly a 9-micron filter between the two tanks. Now, just make sure you don't break the seal on the OEM fill-cap when you're transferring fuel from the aux tank. You'll make a mess.

The transfer rate is pretty quick, at least three or four times quicker than you'll be using it. I hesitate to fill both tanks at the same time because I want to pre-filter everything going through my truck. However, if the price is right and I'm almost empty, I fill both tanks at the same time, just making sure to check for a good seal on my OEM fill-cap when I start filling my aux tank.

The system is pretty slick and simple, and I am well pleased with my decision to make the install. Somewhere on here are some pictures that show the tank and how and where I mounted the Baldwin filter. (Sorry, I am not young enough to know how to post that link to this thread; you may have to do a search.) Good luck, and I know you will be well satisfied.

- Ed

Ed Thanks for sharing your experience. The extra filter is a good idea and I was going to do that too. Had one on my 2001. My truck has no OEM fuel cap. Did you have an overflow?
 
Check into the Transfer Flow systems also. I used gravity feed in the 1990s and it was a major pain. Several times I had a puddle on the ground from forgetting to shut off after it finally had transferred enough fuel. On another thread, there is TF's discussion of federal law vs. gravity feed systems. TF all use a pump, easily accessed for replacement if it ever becomes necessary.

have a 74gal Transfer Flow,installed in 04,not the cheapest tank you can buy,but with 375,000 + miles one of the best investments on my truck.completly automatic transfer of fuel,gauge for both tanks and total fuel.
 
For the price of the one you linked you could get s transfer flow which is a far superior system.

I personally don't like gravity feed at all. I purchased two 36 gallon tanks from a ranch supply and hooked them together for 72 gallons of extra fuel, then used an inline fuel pump and filter I bought from an auto parts store and teed into the factory vent line. No problems what so ever, control when I want to fill the main tank, and no fuel gauge or overfilling issues. I have about $5-600 total invested.

I flip the switch about 1/3 of a tank when I'm driving, takes about 20-30 min to fill. I can do that 3 times while driving. Love only stopping for fuel every 1,100 miles or so when towing the 5'er.
 
I have a 63 gal RDS gravity feed tank on my 2014 Ram 3500. No issues and I never turn the valve off. I did the same thing back in the late 70's with a gas tank in a Datson King Cab truck, no issues then either. We completed a 6000 mile trip pulling a 43 foot 5th in Sept, the extra range with the aux tank is really nice. Make sure you get the correct fill neck adapter, the 2014 Ram's use an 1 3/4 inch kit, not the older truck 1 1/2 inch kit. I love my tank and simple kit. Remember the "KISS" rule; Keep It Simple Stupid.
 
Sent an email to TransferFlow yesterday inquiring about a replacement tank for my recently ordered 15 3500 Dually with rear air.
 
Tim, I forgot you don't have a cap on the 2014. That is an area that I have no experience in. Did I have an overflow? Yep, right there in the station. I quickly turned off the aux. tank valve and left out; later I adjusted the cap and got a good seal. (It was a small splash.) That being said, I leave the valve open except when filling because I'm usually adding a fuel treatment.
- Ed
 
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I have a 90 RDS tank in my 2011. I have an electronic solenoid value that shuts off when the key is in the off position plus a manual switch to shut it off. I have no problems with it and I've filled when the engine is running.

Kevin
 
Tim
The 3500 in my signature truck is a C&C with the 52 gal factory tank behind the axle. When the dealer and/or the aftermarket outfitter installed my Bradford flatbed with a 60 gal RDS tank, the gravity system is plumbed directly into the top of my tank rather than the filler pipe. Do not know if you can drop your tank and do this?? So far for most of 9500 miles I have run with the feed valve open starting with both tanks full. I ave not had any problems with it tripping the CEL for being overfull. The only problem / question I have is why it does not totally empty?? It only takes 45 - 47 gal to refill?? On a recent 1500 mile trip, not towing, I thought my float had stuck on full, but I was appearantly getting better fuel mileage than the EVIC said as the fuel gauge finally started come off full and start working.

I had installed a 37 gal RDS tank in my 06 F-250 (29 gal main) with the Northern Tool RDS gravity filler tube splice adapter. With this system the Ford would trip my CEL if I left it open and the main full for too long. I would usually let the main work down to 1/4 tank then open it overnight and shut it again before I left in the morning. On the road towing at 21,000# gross and getting about 10.5 MPG I would let the main down to about 3/8ths. When we left from a pit stop I would open the valve and my gauge would slowly work back up to almost full before it started back down again without tripping the CEL.

Hope this answeres some of your questions
 
For the price of the one you linked you could get s transfer flow which is a far superior system.

I personally don't like gravity feed at all. I purchased two 36 gallon tanks from a ranch supply and hooked them together for 72 gallons of extra fuel, then used an inline fuel pump and filter I bought from an auto parts store and teed into the factory vent line. No problems what so ever, control when I want to fill the main tank, and no fuel gauge or overfilling issues. I have about $5-600 total invested.

I flip the switch about 1/3 of a tank when I'm driving, takes about 20-30 min to fill. I can do that 3 times while driving. Love only stopping for fuel every 1,100 miles or so when towing the 5'er.

I like the way you did it for $600. Any other 72 gal tank with a pump and filter would be about twice that.
 
Aux fuel tank

Thanks to everybody for the help. It has helped. I did the search here that I should have done first and found that this has been talked about plenty. Also spoke at length to RDS and Trans Flow and they were really helpful. My locally Transfer Flow dealer was no help and values his tanks at way more than anybody else so he was out of the consideration up front. Price is a factor. I’ll talk to Ram at May Madness about the EVIC computer & CEL stuff because inquiring minds want to know but they are a pest too.

Initial conclusions on my part are that I shouldn’t go with a gravity feed. Most people using it are having good to excellent performance and not having any problems if the installation and venting is done right. But my memory about turning it on and off would be a factor and that’s a risk. I remember a few years ago when I was making fuel out of fryer oil I forgot something and had a carboy leaked about 25-30 gals of oil and caused a hell of a mess. It wasn’t pretty and the memory persists.

My wife occasionally drives it to work so if she forgets that’s another reason and would naturally be my fault. She also doesn’t like the length of “OUR” truck and wants a short bed that’s easier to park so a short box may be in the future pretty soon.

Another consideration was installation and getting the RAM fuel gauge system involved. Even though it works OK for other people I don’t like “tie ins” to the RAM fuel gauge or computer system. For me the KISS rule applies here and it’s worked well for me in the past so I’m stickin to it.

I certainly won’t criticize any ones else’s choices because all the info yall gave me was helpful and I really appreciate it. I just have to consider my particular situation and I think for my situation a 12 volt manual transfer pump system with a filter and a tool storage box is what suits me best so that’s what I’ll be looking for. That narrows my choices down to size and configuration and an easy move to another truck with a wife size box if it comes to that.

I again thank everybody for their input. As much research as I did I hope I have the opportunity to help if this subject comes up later.

Thanks TimB
 
I put a used transfer flow tank in my 13 last summer. Used a 12v fuel pump and inline filter. It t's into vent line. I have a lighted rocker switch on the dash to turn it on and off. I usually just set a timer on my phone for 30-45 minutes when I turn it on so that I remember to turn it off. I've had zero problems with this.
 
I put a used transfer flow tank in my 13 last summer. Used a 12v fuel pump and inline filter. It t's into vent line. I have a lighted rocker switch on the dash to turn it on and off. I usually just set a timer on my phone for 30-45 minutes when I turn it on so that I remember to turn it off. I've had zero problems with this.
I did pretty much the same thing except I use one of the mechanical timer switches like are used on bathroom fans. I generally do my fuel transferring when I am stopped so as to not confuse the fuel gauge, although since I have not transferred while the truck is running I can't say there would be a problem. I went in the vent line and everything seems to work well
 
When I transferred my 98 gallon Transfer Flow from my 2003 to my 13, you cut the fuel sending unit wire which is identified in the Transfer Flow directions including the wire colors you are looking for. Connect the Transfer Flow wires to the two ends and attach a ground to the ground wire for the sensor and that's all you do to the trucks wiring. Pretty simple. I have not gotten any check engine lights on my truck. It just adds fuel at specific intervals so the main tank just goes down slower than normal. Not sure how this would be affected by a gravity drain system. Ken Irwin
 
How did you guys tie the tank down? Just bolt it to the bed or did you use something else. I have a 110 gallon steel tank from the farm store. It has 2 tabs front and back, but you can't get to the front to bolt them very easy. Thanks Dirk
 
How did you guys tie the tank down? Just bolt it to the bed or did you use something else. I have a 110 gallon steel tank from the farm store. It has 2 tabs front and back, but you can't get to the front to bolt them very easy. Thanks Dirk

Transfer Flow's tanks bolt through the bed with some reinforcement washers. Ken Irwin
 
RDS's do also.. All I have seen have a 1/2 inch or so rubber pad under them.. I have not looked close at my dealer installed one to see if it has bolts in the front.. The 37 gal RDS I installed in my old F-250 only had lips on the rear so I had to put a spacer on the bolt between the floor and the tank lips to keep it from tipping when I tightened to bolts. Then I used the nylon insert lock nuts so that I did not have to draw the bolts real tight..
 
Ok that is what i thought, I was kinda thinking about making a couple 'tabs" pieces of metal with a lift in the middle ___I----I___ and bolted on the sides, so i can slide the tabs back and under them on the cab side and just bolt the tailgate side. Dirk
 
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