Here I am

I almost traded up to a ST dually today. That Aisin is a AWESOME transmission!

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Help with Aisin Issues

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I was toying with the idea of going back to Dually. I went to Colorado Springs Dodge after corresponding with the internet guy.The only ST they had on the lot was 52K!!!

It had the Aisin and tow hitch prep package. Took it for a test drive and I'm here to tell you.......What a great feeling it was to drive a RAM with a nice shifting transmission. Positive shifts, no "FLARES", lock-unlock. lock, unlock blah blah that I could hear or feel. This truck didnt even have carpet. I could have cared less. The transmission shifted good, just like my 2012 dually did....

Sit down to do the "Guido Sarducci/Suprano" money dance...

First insult: 28K for my 2013 RAM 2500 4Dr, 4x4 w/37K miles. needless to say, it went downhill from there. Then "Guido" came out from the managers booth and tried to talk me into $650-700 payments .....Not gonna happen....


Oh well. Stuck with my "DELL tech support" (Hello. My Name is Carlos) computer programmed shifting pattern, slip and flare 68 RFFE till another time.


Congrats to all you Aisin transmission owners.. I am ENVIOUS AS HELL of you...:)
 
I'm just ****** about the trans shift pattern compared to my 2012 68 RFE. Some jack *** in Michigan changed it to make it softer.
 
I'll keep the 68rfe.......my local dorks aren't smart enough to work on an Aisin.
That's OK, too....rumor has it the Aisin doesn't break. :-laf

To the OP : I really have enjoyed my combined 94k miles of Aisin ownership (42k on a '13 and 52k on my current '14).

Never a hiccup......and always knows which gear to be in. :) The Aisin in my '13--------sold me the Aisin in my '14. :cool:
 
gsbrockman, after driving the truck, I was in love with how nice a transmission the aisin is. I wish they made a "aisin upgrade kit" for us slobs with the 68RFE...Oh well. I'll have one soon.

CThomsan I'll look them up.
 
JHAWES, anything I should know about Smith?

I bought my 11 LongHorn Dually from them. They are straight shooters. They will not put anything in writing until you are ready to deal. They will stick to what they tell you.

Dave Smith and Auto Nation in Seattle were the exact same price on my recently ordered 15 Dually but AutoNation gave my much more for my trade. So they got the deal.
 
600-700 a month payments - that is about right. My 14 Hemi out the door was $42k, and my payments are $630ish for longer than I would like.

Insane that a pickup, A PICKUP FOR gods SAKE, is 1/3 the cost of a modest house, and the best you can get is 6-7 years to pay it off. NUTS!

CO Springs dealerships were not very friendly to me either when I was shopping. Lots of MIL folk in that town with disposable income, so they don't have to worry about making numbers.

Start making calls to some of the Denver dealers. Johnson's Auto and Christopher Dodge.

Your trade - that is about par. Better off selling it on your own, then jump over. Sucks to be you if you are still upside down on it. For S&G I hinted at my '02 for trade and the best 2 dealers would give me was $7k - yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh right. I've got more than that in the performance upgrades. She is going private party as is for $20k, and as I do some needed maint. the price goes up, or I strip her down to stock, and sell the upgrades separate (still have every piece of OEM - even the clutch and factory radio).
 
I like to use the build feature on ramtrucks.com and then check inventory 200+ miles away from my zip code. Instead of calling a dealership and them trying to talk me into what they have, I can check all dealerships, and by clicking on the VIN in the right column, I will see how flexible they probably are on the price.
 
Here's my Blackstone on the 69 Absolutely no signs of wear or problem.

On Edit: The majority of the fluid tested was factory Fluid with 15K, I dropped/Added 8QTs at 6K.
 

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You will when you see the transmission pan bolts on the 69 3500 13+ Ram. You need special 10MM wrenches to remove 4 bolts. I don't like it either.
 
I guess I will need a special wrench. Still don't see why partial then full change.

I have always changed all the fluid.

Not arguing just making a comment.
 
It's pretty easy. I disconnect one of the fittings on the drivers side by the radiator and slip a hose over the pressure side. Trial and error then take note of what one is the correct one to disconnect and slide the hose onto. You want a snug fitting hose. Don't ask!

First I drain the pan and change the filters. I measure the amount of fluid drained then add that much back in. Now I am "full".

I have that hose draped into a container that has volume labeled on it. I have someone start the engine and when the hose starts to sputter they turn off the engine. Now I measure the volume and fill that amount back in now I am "full" again. Repeat until the fluid color changes and shut off. and re fill.

Best to know what the total refill is I usually end up adding 1-2 quarts extra by the time the fluid runs with fresh fluid.

Some will say there will be damage from the lack of fluid when the pump runs "dry". I call bunk.

I did this on my 68RFE at about 5K and then again at 50K.
 
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