Help! Truck keeps draining battteries!

[AllianceDiesel]

Thanks everyone and AllianceDiesel and all for the help. I will continue the battle tomorrow. Hey AllianceDiesel, noticed you were from Alliance, Nebraska. I lived in Chadron for five years while going to CSC. Love the panhandle of Nebraska. Miss it!

I actually worked in Chadron from 2004-2007 at Eisenbarth/Timberline Dodge.

I agree on the relay. Hopefully it was getting stuck in the closed position.

 

[amsoilman]

Left my 04.5 parked for a few days over Christmas and went to open the doors and the key fob did nothing. That's strange...Opened the driver's door with the key and there were no interior lights on. Went to start it and...nothing. Went and checked both batteries and they were down to 4.0 volts. Pulled both of them and tried charging them and charger said they were bad batteries. Went out and bought new batteries and installed. Started and ran fine. Then it sat for two days and of course... both new batteries were now at 4.0 volts. Pulled them out and charged them. They were so low that my digital charger did not want to charge them. Worked them back up with an old charger. Now both new batteries are fully charged and I installed them hooked up the negative cable and put a voltmeter between the positive post and the positive cable end before attaching the post to the battery. The meter read a 12.94 volt draw with nothing on! Truck started again and I ran it in the driveway for about 10 min. Only codes were P2509 and P0243. Turned off the truck and disconnected the batteries again. Now I am stuck...have no idea what could be causing such a heavy current draw with nothing turned on. Any and all help greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!

If you have a Gage, like a "EDGE CTS", make sure it goes off when the key is off. Mine was not turning off, and the Batteries were draing, like ours.

 

[Crunch]

I've been having a similar problem the last few weeks. I was out of state for Christmas, the weather was in the 20s, and when I tried to start the truck to drive back the batteries were dead. I jump started it and drove the 500+ miles without a problem. I stopped for fuel twice, and it started fine both times. The alternator is fine, and shows a slight charge just like it always has. Since I've been back, the problem has persisted. I've been charging the batteries at night, and the truck starts right up all the next day no matter how many times I turn the key. Took it in to the dealer for a battery check (the batteries are 3 years and 2 months old, just out of warranty), which showed it to be OK, but the dealer said the there could still be a problem with them that their new machine didn't detect. I considered replacing all the battery cables, but a full set from the dealer goes north of $500. Since the problem seemed to be cold related, and only after the truck sits overnight I am replacing the batteries as a first step. They go in tomorrow. For what it's worth, I've also looked at Geno's and online for an OEM equivalent for battery cables, but haven't found anything close. I don't have anything that is aftermarket that I would consider a power drain, and since the problem only occurs after sitting overnight I'm leaning against a short draining the battery. But I guess tomorrow I'll slap the meter on the cables to see it they are pulling any amps.

 

[SnoKing]

I've been having a similar problem the last few weeks. I was out of state for Christmas, the weather was in the 20s, and when I tried to start the truck to drive back the batteries were dead. I jump started it and drove the 500+ miles without a problem. I stopped for fuel twice, and it started fine both times. The alternator is fine, and shows a slight charge just like it always has. Since I've been back, the problem has persisted. I've been charging the batteries at night, and the truck starts right up all the next day no matter how many times I turn the key. Took it in to the dealer for a battery check (the batteries are 3 years and 2 months old, just out of warranty), which showed it to be OK, but the dealer said the there could still be a problem with them that their new machine didn't detect. I considered replacing all the battery cables, but a full set from the dealer goes north of $500. Since the problem seemed to be cold related, and only after the truck sits overnight I am replacing the batteries as a first step. They go in tomorrow. For what it's worth, I've also looked at Geno's and online for an OEM equivalent for battery cables, but haven't found anything close. I don't have anything that is aftermarket that I would consider a power drain, and since the problem only occurs after sitting overnight I'm leaning against a short draining the battery. But I guess tomorrow I'll slap the meter on the cables to see it they are pulling any amps.

I would look for phantom loads before spending money on batteries. Us a number 97 or similar bulb between neg post and ground of one battery with the others ground disconnected. Start removing fuses until the light dims greatly or goes out.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

Ive had a battery go bad that would drain both batteries after three or four days.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I would not shot-gun the battery cables. You could check the connections at each end for corrosion but a bad battery cable is not going to cause a battery to discharge while it sits.
You need to look for phantom loads; a glove box light that stays on, hood light or amplifier that doesn't turn off, etc.
Also disconnect the batteries and check their individual voltages. They should be very close so if one is a volt or more lower, that battery is shorted internally. I bought two new batts and one was shorted right off the shelf.

 

[sag2]

I would look for phantom loads before spending money on batteries. Us a number 97 or similar bulb between neg post and ground of one battery with the others ground disconnected. Start removing fuses until the light dims greatly or goes out.

Don't use a bulb, it really does not tell you much. See post #9 on the first page of this thread and use a multimeter.

 

[Hammer]

I have seen this issue with a bad Foward control module also.

 

[Crunch]

I would look for phantom loads before spending money on batteries. Us a number 97 or similar bulb between neg post and ground of one battery with the others ground disconnected. Start removing fuses until the light dims greatly or goes out.

I hadn't thought of phantom loads. But it's too late anyway because I replaced the batteries with Optima Red Tops the other day. The batteries I replaced were only 3 years old, but there was a lot of acid wash on top of them and despite the dielectric grease I was getting corrosion. I think it may have solved the problem because I now notice my alternator gauge is now more centered over the line in the middle. Previously it had been running about two needle widths high on the gauge. I don't know if it was related, but this morning my serpentine belt failed when I was three blocks from my house. I've never had that happen before, and it's quite a shock to lose power steering, power brakes and some of the gauges all at once. The truck was a monster to control without the power assisted features. A 1/4" strip had peeled off the belt and must have snagged and pulled it off the pulleys. Fortunately, I had a spare (the original belt that came with the truck) and was able to fix it fairly quickly. As an aside, I would suggest that everyone carry a spare belt. It's one of the easiest repairs there is on these trucks, and the only tool you need is a wrench or ratchet with a 1/2" drive. The repair manual tells you to thread it over all the pulleys except the water pump, then use the wrench to move the tensioner and slip it over the water pump pulley when the belt loosens. I found it was easier to do it from underneath, and skip the A/C pulley until the tensioner loosens the belt enough to slide it over.

Thanks for the advice. If this problem comes back I'll definitely check for phantom load, as per the video referenced in this thread.

 

[BILLUA]

I went through this with my '05... Tried all advice given.. Had the instrument cluster replaced on a good will as it was determined to have had a short in it..Finally had to keep a battery tender on it...Fixed the problem by trading it in on my '12...Electrical problems suck.

 

[Crunch]

Electrical problems suck.

You got that right. They rank right up there with stripped/sheared bolts.

 

[K5IP]

I noticed a mention of clamping on a meter to check for draw. Be aware that many (if not most) clamp on ammeters are for ac, not dc circuits. As such, an ac clamp on meter would not indicate any dc draw.
It's best to go to the guys who suggest opening up the circuit and placing a light or a dc ammeter in the circuit.
Rog

 

[Bob V]

Automotive style meters are made for DC. You just need to pay attention to what you have. Ever hear of a Sun VAT-40?

 

[K5IP]

Bob,
My bad. But I did not know Sun Vat meters had clamp on capability.
Rog

 

[Prairie Dog]

I noticed a mention of clamping on a meter to check for draw. Be aware that many (if not most) clamp on ammeters are for ac, not dc circuits. As such, an ac clamp on meter would not indicate any dc draw.
It's best to go to the guys who suggest opening up the circuit and placing a light or a dc ammeter in the circuit.
Rog

It's a good point. Most of the garden variety inductive meters I've seen are AC only. You really have to watch what your getting.
(I have a Fluke AC/DC inductive PU.)