Newby Question: HP and Torque

[RUSSELL5000]

I spend some time on the Jayco forum (manufacturer of my travel trailer) and noticed that a person who has been posting has the same model year truck that I do - very similar, I have short bed and this person has a long bed.

This person includes the following in the signature: "530 HP 1000 pounds+torque."

My understanding is that the 6.L in the 2012 was 350 HP and 800 ft lbs torque with the 68RFE automatic transmission.

From reading the magazine and on the forum, if I understand it correctly, one can increase the output of the engine by (1) changing the timing of the fuel injection/combustion sequence, (2) increasing the amount of fuel injected, and/or (3) increasing the amount of air into the cylinder. I readily confess I have only a superficial understanding gained from what I have read.

My questions:

(1) Is going from 350 HP to 530 HP and 800 ft lbs torque to 1,000 ft lbs torque possible?

(2) In simple terms, what would have to be done to accomplish this?

(3) Any rough idea of possible cost?

(4) How would one know - wouldn't the truck have to go on vehicle chassis dynamometer test system to find out?



Thanks!

 

[mpaulson]

1-yes, but not so easily with the newer trucks.
2-ARP head gasket kit, programmer, transmission rebuild/modification/beefing(which there's not many options out there for the 68RFE that I'm aware of),change turbo, change injectors, dual CP3 high pressure fuel pumps, intake modifications, full set of gauges, bigger intercooler.
3-$10-15G maybe?
4-would have to do a before and after chassis dyno.

A chip alone may get one close on a race setting, but it will blow something up very soon. There is not really a durable way to get this kind of power. transmission would go first then the head gasket.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Thanks.

Am I right in assuming that you would probably need to remove the emissions system as well? My understanding from the TDR is that the combustion cycle has been controlled to carefully balance NOx and soot production and NOT to obtain optimal power production. I assume all of that would change with a new tuner and the two systems would conflict.

I suppose if you had limitless money and your truck was just a toy to play with that this could be. I suppose it could also be for someone who is a serious competition person. Seems far removed from practicality to me.

Thanks again.

 

[RVTRKN]

Don't forget you become your own warranty station as well. I'm not a fan of programing an engine that has plenty of power in the stock form. A Buddy of mine just bought a 2014 SO Mega Cab and was shocked at the power it has over his 2001 CTD. If deleted, they are more reliable and runs better from posts/threads that I have read, but three things prevent me from doing this. 1) The costs 2) warranty issues 3) Comifornia Gestapo smog police.

 

[mpaulson]

Right, I forgot to mention that you need to delete all the emissions stuff. Personally I will never do this again to a truck unless for some reason I had more money than I knew what to do with and I had a truck that was my "toy". I did this on my last truck and the $60G truck ended up costing me $120G's by the time I gave up chasing problems and weaknesses and dealing with the stress of wondering what will break on my next camping trip!! The newer trucks are just so much better that I don't at all feel the desire to want "more" or to modify it. Not worth it in my opinion. It's so nice to drive a truck that you know you are not exceeding anything as it was designed and as well have warrantee, if you still have it on yours.
If it is a big deal to you and it is within your means, I'd upgrade while yours is still young to a new one with the Aisin and you won't be left with any desire for "more". My 2014 by far exceeds my previous 07.5 that was very modified in every area of power, hill climbing, quietness, ride etc.

 

[Jim W]

I spend some time on the Jayco forum (manufacturer of my travel trailer) and noticed that a person who has been posting has the same model year truck that I do - very similar, I have short bed and this person has a long bed.

This person includes the following in the signature: "530 HP 1000 pounds+torque."

My understanding is that the 6.L in the 2012 was 350 HP and 800 ft lbs torque with the 68RFE automatic transmission.

From reading the magazine and on the forum, if I understand it correctly, one can increase the output of the engine by (1) changing the timing of the fuel injection/combustion sequence, (2) increasing the amount of fuel injected, and/or (3) increasing the amount of air into the cylinder. I readily confess I have only a superficial understanding gained from what I have read.

My questions:

(1) Is going from 350 HP to 530 HP and 800 ft lbs torque to 1,000 ft lbs torque possible?

(2) In simple terms, what would have to be done to accomplish this?

(3) Any rough idea of possible cost?

(4) How would one know - wouldn't the truck have to go on vehicle chassis dynamometer test system to find out?



Thanks!

Hi; like others have said it can be done but will cost some money to do.
With my 08 truck I have invested a little under $2,000 on modifying the truck which includes a Mag-Hytec transmission oil pan; gauges and a Smarty S67 tuner. Using calculations and knowing that you loose about 20% of the engine HP through inefficiency of drive train looses; ( This is what we always used to calculate HP looses at Caterpillar) I am approximately 340 HP at the rear wheels and 640 LB-FT of torque. This is based on the stock numbers of the advertised engine 350 HP and 650 LB-Ft by Ram and the numbers published by Mad's Electronics for the Smarty S67 set at level 3 and a 20% loose in stock power from the drive train.

To answer your question 2,3 and 4; You would need to have a tuner/programmer like a Smarty S67 and set this to level 9 which adds 170 HP + the added torque to the engine output as measured at the rear wheels by Mad's. They use a chassis dynamoneter to measure the rear wheel HP and torque. Now you can back calculate to achieve an approximation of engine HP and Torque levels. You would also need to add head studs and fire ring the head to insure that the head gasket does not fail. The transmission over a short period of time will need to be rebuilt also since this is not designed to handle the HP and torque that the engine puts out now.

So as an example using a 2008 Cummins engine advertise numbers: stock HP is 350 -20% = 280 +170 as measured from Mad's Electronics: would be 450 HP approximately at the rear wheels. 450 + (450x20%) 90= approximately 540 engine HP. You can do the same for torque but realize this is all a guess since the engine is not on a dyanmoneter to have an actual number.

The Smarty S67 use to sell for under $700 at one time.

Jim W.