Adjusting bands on transmission

[alexanderJ]

I have a '05 CTD with 60K miles on it. 48RE transmission. I have serviced the transmission at recommended intervals and it appears to be shifting fine. I have never adjusted the bands but having been doing some research and found that a lot of folks, assuming they are having no trouble, do not routinely do the adjustment.

Now, here is my question: after dropping the pan, is there any way to "measure" the slack, or lack of in the bands. Can I determine if the bands actually need adjusting? I know the procedure is simple but I honestly don't want to mess with it unless needed. Again, When towing or driving empty, the transmission is currently shifting fine.

Advise appreciated.....................

 

[kthaxton]

Never worked on a 48, but my assumption is that from a band service standpoint, they'd be identical to the other 727-based trans'. In that case, no, not really a good way to measure but it is a simple task and it would be silly to remove the pan and actually not perform the adjustment. And it should be done at much more frequent intervals..... again, assuming it is similar to the other versions.

 

[RDeFayette]

I have a '05 CTD with 60K miles on it. 48RE transmission. I have serviced the transmission at recommended intervals and it appears to be shifting fine. I have never adjusted the bands but having been doing some research and found that a lot of folks, assuming they are having no trouble, do not routinely do the adjustment.

Now, here is my question: after dropping the pan, is there any way to "measure" the slack, or lack of in the bands. Can I determine if the bands actually need adjusting? I know the procedure is simple but I honestly don't want to mess with it unless needed. Again, When towing or driving empty, the transmission is currently shifting fine.

Advise appreciated.....................

there is really no way to "measure" the band "slack" to determine if adjustment is needed other than to follow the factory recommended adjustment intervals. After adjusting them pay attention to how far you do/do not have to adjust the band adjusting screw. adjust service intervals from that. For example the "slack/back off adjustment" plus 1/4 turn or so to reach the required torque not too far out...back off adjustment + 1 turn or more...way out of adjustment. (again just an example) FYI, the front band is adjusted WITHOUT dropping the pan. Rear band needs the pan dropped.

 

[Prairie Dog]

It's such an easy and quick thing to adjust it that even if you could measure something it wouldn't be worth the time.

 

[RDeFayette]

It's such an easy and quick thing to adjust it that even if you could measure something it wouldn't be worth the time.

yeah that pretty much sums it up.

 

[deaner70]

Anyone have some pictures of the procedure?

 

[deeselfitter]

Just type....48re band adjustment..... into the advanced search and it will give you all you need to adjust your bands

 

[deeselfitter]

Deaner,....also remember that you are torquing in inch pounds ....NOT foot pounds when it comes to your bands.All the specs are on that page .

Wayne

 

[RDeFayette]

Anyone have some pictures of the procedure?

Make sure to READ the directions! The torque value for the band adjustment is in/lb NOT ft/lb! I've seen too many guys break the band not reading the torque values correctly.

 

[deeselfitter]

Make sure to READ the directions! The torque value for the band adjustment is in/lb NOT ft/lb! I've seen too many guys break the band not reading the torque values correctly.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said

 

[alexanderJ]

A question for those who have done the adjustment. The instructions say after adjusting the adjuster screw you hold it in place and tighten the locknut to 30 ft lb on the front band and 13 ft lbs on the rear band.

Normally on a torque wrench I'm using a socket. If I'm holding the adjusting screw in place, how do I use my torque wrench to tighten the locking nut? I'm going to have a torx bit holding the adjuster screw, and I won't be able to get a socket over it. What to do??

 

[RDeFayette]

A question for those who have done the adjustment. The instructions say after adjusting the adjuster screw you hold it in place and tighten the locknut to 30 ft lb on the front band and 13 ft lbs on the rear band.

Normally on a torque wrench I'm using a socket. If I'm holding the adjusting screw in place, how do I use my torque wrench to tighten the locking nut? I'm going to have a torx bit holding the adjuster screw, and I won't be able to get a socket over it. What to do??

torque the adjusting screw, back it out, hold it in place, tighten the lock/jamb nut. Just use some common sense when tightening the jamb nut. The CRITICAL torque/adjustment is the adjusting screw. You're not bolting the wheels onto a locomotive if you catch my drift.

 

[alexanderJ]

torque the adjusting screw, back it out, hold it in place, tighten the lock/jamb nut. Just use some common sense when tightening the jamb nut. The CRITICAL torque/adjustment is the adjusting screw. You're not bolting the wheels onto a locomotive if you catch my drift.

I get your drift. I've gone most my life without ever using a torque wrench and substituting common sense. But..........I'm just still curious if anyone can explain how to do this if one wanted to really follow the rules on the locknut. How about using a crowsfoot on a torque wrench? Would that be accurate??


EDIT: well, after posting I found the formula for using a crowsfoot. Takes a little math but doable. I think your right on the "common sense" approach. I can't imagine that locknut coming loose if put on pretty snug.

 

[deeselfitter]

A question for those who have done the adjustment. The instructions say after adjusting the adjuster screw you hold it in place and tighten the locknut to 30 ft lb on the front band and 13 ft lbs on the rear band.

Normally on a torque wrench I'm using a socket. If I'm holding the adjusting screw in place, how do I use my torque wrench to tighten the locking nut? I'm going to have a torx bit holding the adjuster screw, and I won't be able to get a socket over it. What to do??

Not foot pounds......inch pounds

 

[alexanderJ]

Not foot pounds......inch pounds

Dodge service manual says FOOT lbs on *locking nuts*. Inch lbs on adjusting screw.

 

[deeselfitter]

Dodge service manual says FOOT lbs on *locking nuts*. Inch lbs on adjusting screw.

You are absolutely right Alexander. 30ls/ft for the front band locking nut and 25 lb/ft for the rear band locking nut.
I believe the critical one is the band adjustment torx head screw,for which i used an inch/lb torque wrench. I gueesed the torque on the lock nut with a box end wrench as i held the band screw in position with the torque ratchet in reverse so the screw didn't tighten further.
Can anyone elaborate further on this as i know of no device to hold the band adjustment screw and torque the locking nut at the same time. But i am open to new things
Wayne

 

[kthaxton]

I've been adjusting the bands on Chrysler transmissions for 25 years. I have never put a torque wrench on the locking nut, just get it snug as others have mentioned, it only needs to hold the adjusting nut from coming out of adjustment.

 

[alexanderJ]

You are absolutely right Alexander. 30ls/ft for the front band locking nut and 25 lb/ft for the rear band locking nut.
I believe the critical one is the band adjustment torx head screw,for which i used an inch/lb torque wrench. I gueesed the torque on the lock nut with a box end wrench as i held the band screw in position with the torque ratchet in reverse so the screw didn't tighten further.
Can anyone elaborate further on this as i know of no device to hold the band adjustment screw and torque the locking nut at the same time. But i am open to new things
Wayne

Wayne, yes I was asking the same thing. As stated in previous post the lock nut is not that critical but I'd still like to torque it to specs if possible. Doubt that other than just feeling it is going to work.

Another question: I don't think the rear band adjustment screw uses a torx screw. I think it is a square head. Correct me if I'm wrong. I think I read where the only socket that will fit it is an 8 point, which I don't have. Anybody confirm this??

 

[deeselfitter]

Wayne, yes I was asking the same thing. As stated in previous post the lock nut is not that critical but I'd still like to torque it to specs if possible. Doubt that other than just feeling it is going to work.

Another question: I don't think the rear band adjustment screw uses a torx screw. I think it is a square head. Correct me if I'm wrong. I think I read where the only socket that will fit it is an 8 point, which I don't have. Anybody confirm this??

Alexander
I believe you are right,and if i recall correctly,i used a 1/4 drive 6 point socket backwards,i attached a 1/4 hex bit to my torque ratchet to insert in the 6 point backwards socket. Since my torque ratchet is 3/8 drive,i had to use a 3/8 to 1/4 drive adaptor ........it sounds a bit convoluted , but it works fine.
confused yet

 

[kthaxton]

Sears typically will have the needed 5/16" 8-point socket in stock...if you have one near you it's worth just picking one up.