Diesel Treatment

[GBBrown]

In my previous truck I always used Stanadyne in every tank, mainly because of the low sulfur diesel. I'm in the process of purchasing a 2015 and wondering if the newer engines even need it. I pulled my injectors at 130,000 miles and they were clean as a whistle, so I know the stuff works. Just getting up to speed on these new 6.7 engines

 

[Cummins12V98]

I would say it's more important to stick with the Mopar/Fleetguard NanoNet fuel filters.

 

[DonFitzwater]

It's been published in many past issues of TDR that Cummins does not recommend additives for the 6.7 liter engine. It can have detrimental effects on the exhaust system component life.

 

[Stab]

In my previous truck I always used Stanadyne in every tank, mainly because of the low sulfur diesel. I'm in the process of purchasing a 2015 and wondering if the newer engines even need it. I pulled my injectors at 130,000 miles and they were clean as a whistle, so I know the stuff works. Just getting up to speed on these new 6.7 engines

Stanadyne is good stuff! I've used it for over thirty years. Reason: The fuel injection shop I worked for highly recommended it & used it, and still does! Power Service is #2.

We live in a colder climate & HAVE to use something for anti gel. If in doubt talk to a diesel injection shop you trust and go from there.

 

[MattandLana]

I'm not a diesel mechanic or chemist (and cold will never be a problem for me here in Oz!) but I observe that what's worked in the past, even for many years, is not always a good guide to what's best for the future in these increasingly sophisticated engines. As DFitzwater has pointed out, the days when you considered the effect of fuel on valves, injectors and combustion chamber, and lost interest in the process after the exhaust valve (or after the turbo if you had one of them fancy things) are long gone. There is now complex chemical processing all the way through the exhaust system, and fuel chemistry will affect this for better or worse.

I would second the advice to ask Cummins what if any additives to use. They must have suggestions for cold climate users. I'm on a handheld so won't go googling it myself just now.

 

[cerberusiam]

Cummins has a whole range of additives they recomend for the diesel systems, biocides, conditioner, ashaltene reducers, etc. Common misconception that pump fuel is adequate, common misconception that Cummins doesn't reccomend them. Cummins has adopted and published a fuel spec that is the gauge for warranty and the basis for their expectations, you MUST run additives to meet the fuel spec.

It is all FleetGuard stamped but the MSDS is close to what almost all the popular brands are.

 

[Ozymandias]

We in Europe just use 2-Stroke Oil - low ash and mineralic - don't use synthetic, it wont mix with the diesel, mixture 1:250.
Cheapest way to go and is proven to work.

 

[gsbrockman]

We in Europe just use 2-Stroke Oil - low ash and mineralic - don't use synthetic, it wont mix with the diesel, mixture 1:250.
Cheapest way to go and is proven to work.

How is your post useful to the OP.....since your signature has listed a 2004.5 pickup......and this is the 4th GEN RAM Forum ???
How can it be "proven to work" in a 2007.5 and newer diesel pickup....with all of the OEM emissions components intact???

 

[Ozymandias]

It is interesting because we use that on ALL Diesel Engine, even and especially the newest ones. They have the most picky injection techniques inside.
The 2-Stroke Oil doesn't hurt an Oxicat or a Particulate Filter - and no, that's not new technic, we have them since ten years in many applications.

 

[crispyboy]

I have used Stanadyne Performance Formula for the past 15 months in this truck. Injectors are quieter (especially cold), starts a bit quicker, mileage did not change. In the past usage on a VW Jetta the exhaust soot was noticeably less so I assume this can only help the dpf.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Chrysler TSB 14-007-06 states that fuel additives are not recommended

 

[cerberusiam]

A 10 year blurb that was just as wrong then as it is now doesn't really raise any flags. This from the company that claimed the factory filtration was adequate for as many years. Doesn't instill a lot of confidence when they as much as admitted they were wrong. On the other hand, the engine manufacturer has a whole line of products they reccommend for their diesel engines. Not a hard choice to make.

 

[DonFitzwater]

All I can tell you is that when I stopped dumping that crap in my fuel tank I stopped having injector related idle quality problems. Ymmv.

I suppose you write TSB's Cerb? Maybe you should contact Chrysler and let them know about their mistake.

 

[Ozymandias]

It could also be possible that all treatments maybe raise the pollution, so much that the car would be illegal to drive.
So they have to write this.

We have a similar here over, in central Europe it is illegal to let your engine idle before start - so the manufacturers say in the manuals you have to drive immediately after starting the engine - THIS would be best for the engine.
Legal stupidity.

 

[MattandLana]

... on a VW Jetta the exhaust soot was noticeably less ....

(Not disagreeing with you or questioning you - trying to learn here.)

So how does that work? I mean what's the chemistry that makes it work? Soot comes from carbon and there's the same amount of carbon in the tank before and after you add the additive barring minor dilution. Soot also depends on burn parameters, EGR etc and the truck keeps adjusting these all the time anyway.

Speaking generally, I'm sure some automotive fuel additives really do work, but I'm equally sure others are snake oil. So it seems the only reliable way to tell them apart is a combination of understanding the chemistry, and independent direct comparison like-for-like experimental lab tests (not, with the greatest respect to the experience of this forum, subjective anecdotal non-experimental field tests without proper like-for-like control samples). This will no doubt offend some passionate defenders of additive X, but no offense is intended. I'm just trying to understand HOW an additive reduces soot.

 

[cerberusiam]

I suppose you write TSB's Cerb? Maybe you should contact Chrysler and let them know about their mistake.

Let me point out the misinterpretation:

"Fuel conditioners (additives) are not recommended and should not be required if you buy good quality fuel"

No where does it say additives are specifically prohibited, NOT to use them or damage will occur, etc. All this sentence tells you is you don't have to treat good fuel for adequate operation of the engine. In no way does it prohibit or reject the use of additives.

 

[Killgore]

Fuel quality is the unknown variable in the equation regardless of the year model being run. Most of us look for price, volume dealers, and perhaps fuel dispensed by particular venders hoping we get what we're paying for. If we could be assured on every fill-up that we were in fact buying what we hoped was the best, the extra filters and additives probably wouldn't be in the mix. The real world is that sometimes we pump less than the best. I look at the crud on my primary and occasionally cut open one of the other filters and thank the stars for the fact that I have taken a little extra care in fuel filtration. An additive is an extra precaution. Snake oil? Maybe, but I also take vitamins and I think I feel better when I do.
- Ed

 

[JR]

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/html/en/products/fuel/additives/turbo_diesel.html

The description in the literature says it all, "OEM approved"

Apparently a lot of truckers don't believe they need anything in their fuel either, a friend owns a road side service company (medium and heavy duty trucks/tractor trailers) and he has received 13 calls this winter alone from guys on the side of the road with plugged up filters.
He makes a believer out of em one at a time :-laf

Places like here are probably more prone to fuel gelling than most, we've had unseasonably cold temps down into the negative teens and 20's which is not very typical for NE Ohio. A lot of this comes down to the quality of fuel, the asphaltines in ULSD plugs a filter solid when temps fall well below the fuels treated temperature range. Arctic climates use a healthy amount of #1 and should be pretty well suited to their climate in terms of gelling but the down side is #1 is well above the maximum HFRR score required by Bosch. Maybe not such a big deal for those who don't keep their trucks past warranty but is certainly something to be concerned with for those that do.

 

[RikDavis]

I can't help but wonder about the whole additive deal (other than gelling) I have never used any additives in my 99 other than in a few below zero situations when I was hauling trailers out of Indiana.
My injection pump lasted 458K and my injectors are still original at 577K. Perhaps I am just lucky.
I have started using a biocide now that the truck sits more than it used to.

 

[crispyboy]

(Not disagreeing with you or questioning you - trying to learn here.)

So how does that work? I mean what's the chemistry that makes it work? Soot comes from carbon and there's the same amount of carbon in the tank before and after you add the additive barring minor dilution. Soot also depends on burn parameters, EGR etc and the truck keeps adjusting these all the time anyway.

Speaking generally, I'm sure some automotive fuel additives really do work, but I'm equally sure others are snake oil. So it seems the only reliable way to tell them apart is a combination of understanding the chemistry, and independent direct comparison like-for-like experimental lab tests (not, with the greatest respect to the experience of this forum, subjective anecdotal non-experimental field tests without proper like-for-like control samples). This will no doubt offend some passionate defenders of additive X, but no offense is intended. I'm just trying to understand HOW an additive reduces soot.

I'm not smart enough to tell you how it works. My guess is that the less soot factor is the combustion of the fuel must be hotter and more complete. I also have to add that we use Stanadyne in a 2005 and 1989 farm tractor. I have noticed less soot from the stack especially when the engine is being worked hard (baling hay going up our steep hills).