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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission check yer nuts

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Had tires rotated

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So they were over tightened by the tire store. I was told they have to torque them to factory spec, 150'#.
 
One reason why I rotate my own, and check them immediately after having new tires put on. I was with a friend one day when we had to stop and have one of his duals repaired. We left the tire store and were cruising down the road at about 45-50mph when we felt a wobble in the rear... My friend began to slow down and about that time something caught my eye off to my right. It was the outer dual passing us. Needless to say the manager of the tire store got his azz handed to him a short time later.
 
I busted a tech's nuts over his use of a torque wrench during a tire rotation a few years ago. "Jack it back up, loosen every single one of the lug nuts, and refasten them *TO YOUR PROCEDURES*. That lug nut never moved on 32 nuts when the torque wrench clicked. Every single one of them is already over-torqued. FIX IT."

I'd be having a discussion with the shop manager.
 
Man! That's extra scarey on the front wheel. Reminds me of when my friend had his oil changed at the "national lube store" and the next morning on the way to work one block from home the oil filter fell clean off and hit the street!!! I change my oil myself, thank you very much.
 
Man! That's extra scarey on the front wheel. Reminds me of when my friend had his oil changed at the "national lube store" and the next morning on the way to work one block from home the oil filter fell clean off and hit the street!!! I change my oil myself, thank you very much.

I had someone else change my oil once. I said to the young man, "you are sure the gasket/seal came off with the oil filter, right?" He said sure! I said show me! He then removed the filter and retrieved the old gasket! He also screw up the after market plug. Said "someone rounded off your pan plug!" I got out my 6 point socket and took it off for him, after he let me come down in the pit. SNOKING
 
Before I went back to doing my own work, a tech in a national chain was going to change my oil. He came in to talk to me and told me that he had already broken 2 wrenches trying to get my drain plug out and that he needed to get another wrench from another store. I asked him if he had managed to do anything to my truck yet. When he said no I asked for my truck and quickly exited the premises. I have no idea what he was cranking on to break wrenches. Fortunately, it wasn't my drain plug.
 
I broke 3 on my minivan last month and since I put the wheels on I know they were torqued correctly. It was the first time I didn't use an impact wrench to remove them. I suspect 5 months of Winter driving rusted the bolts and an impact would have spun them off without issue. Now I add anti-seize to the threads.
 
Now I add anti-seize to the threads.

That changes the torque value significantly, of course. If the torque specs are for dry or oil-lubricated threads, anti-seize lubricated threads would require a much lower torque - depending on the anti-seize, as much as 50% lower than the specified torque value for dry threads.

Rusty
 
Yes and no..... Per Permatex online docs for their Anti-Seize product, http://www.permatex.com/component/documents/?format=raw&view=vm&layout=loadDirections&id=80071, under Directions For Use, #6:

Reassemble parts using normal torque values.

I'm not a mechanical enginerd, I don't know for sure why this compound isn't treated differently than a traditional oil or grease.

Personally, I've had minor issues on my Jeep wheel studs over the years with anti-seize. The compound will dry out over time, and while the nuts aren't binding, they did seem to take a little more than normal torque for both removal & installation.
 
The first thing I do after I buy new tires is remove the lug nuts, one at a time, put a drop of oil between the inner & outer piece, then torque them with my wrench. I don't waste my time doing rotations, if I did I'd have to do it once a month. Besides, that way I seldom have to buy six tires at once.
 
That changes the torque value significantly, of course. If the torque specs are for dry or oil-lubricated threads, anti-seize lubricated threads would require a much lower torque - depending on the anti-seize, as much as 50% lower than the specified torque value for dry threads.

Rusty
Interesting so I had to research it. 80 ft-lbs for dry (7/16 wheel stud), 60 for lubricated seems to be a "normal" value but one data sheet says reduce lubricated by 20% for anti-seize bring it down to 50 ft-lbs. OTOH another data sheet says reduce by 25% for lubricated where lubricated includes engine oil, thread sealer or thread locker. I've never considered reducing the torque with thread locker. Loctite mentions that it's a thread lubricant but says nothing about adjusting the torque.

I did come across a DIY experiment where bolt head rotation was used as an indication of stretch. Comparing dry and anti-seize it took 31% - 44% less torque to get to the same bolt position. So my 80 ft-lb spec should be reduced to 45 - 55 with anti-seize. I'll keep it in mind the next time I change the tires.
 
Did they break them while rotating tires. Or did you find broken studs when you pulled tire off?

I kept thinking I could hear a squeak but I was pulling a grain auger so I thought that's where the noise came from till I got out and saw the wheel was ready to fall off and sitting at a 45° angle
 
Interesting so I had to research it. 80 ft-lbs for dry (7/16 wheel stud), 60 for lubricated seems to be a "normal" value but one data sheet says reduce lubricated by 20% for anti-seize bring it down to 50 ft-lbs. OTOH another data sheet says reduce by 25% for lubricated where lubricated includes engine oil, thread sealer or thread locker. I've never considered reducing the torque with thread locker. Loctite mentions that it's a thread lubricant but says nothing about adjusting the torque.

I did come across a DIY experiment where bolt head rotation was used as an indication of stretch. Comparing dry and anti-seize it took 31% - 44% less torque to get to the same bolt position. So my 80 ft-lb spec should be reduced to 45 - 55 with anti-seize. I'll keep it in mind the next time I change the tires.

The 50% reduction in torque from a dry thread required to achieve a given fastener preload in our company's testing was with a particular anti-seize product that also contained molybdenum disulfide.

Rusty
 
One reason why I rotate my own, and check them immediately after having new tires put on. I was with a friend one day when we had to stop and have one of his duals repaired. We left the tire store and were cruising down the road at about 45-50mph when we felt a wobble in the rear... My friend began to slow down and about that time something caught my eye off to my right. It was the outer dual passing us. Needless to say the manager of the tire store got his azz handed to him a short time later.

i try to do everything but my own tires guess i need to find a new tire shop
 
Man! That's extra scarey on the front wheel. Reminds me of when my friend had his oil changed at the "national lube store" and the next morning on the way to work one block from home the oil filter fell clean off and hit the street!!! I change my oil myself, thank you very much.

dad had his oil changed at the ford dealer and they left the old gasket still on the filter base well i ruined the the engine they replaced it for him after about 3 weeks of screwing around .
 
Had the same issues many years ago with my 12v.
Thought it had to do with over torquing or someone loosening the wheels at work while trying to steal them.
Found out much later it had to do with corrosion inside the after-market McGuard lugs on My custom wheels.The lugs had corrosion in the upper portions of the lugs and constant rotating the wheels and no oil or anti-seize(I was also one who believed the hype about not using them) the stud would stretch a bit more and get bound up in the corrosion and appear to be torqued tight.In fact they were not properly torqued and driving down the road one day I heard sounds like I ran over debris on the road,then the wobble came and when I got out I had only 3 lugs left on the left front wheel.

That was it,off to Ma Mopar,bought 32 new wheel studs from them and changed them all,contacted local McGuard dealer and took the lugs back,which He replaced free of charge.Took them home and ran a tap down in them to ensure the threads were clean and debris free.Copper anti-seize was used,wheels were reinstalled and properly torqued and to this day I do the same on all My wheels and never have had that issue again.
 
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