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Factory Air Suspension: Post Your Experiences, Please

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TDRGuy

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Trying to finish an article for the next TDR magazine (due out in August).

Your experiences?

My story with a complete air system (look up Auto-Flex) on my 2010 Ram 2500 was just so-so. Tell me about your factory air.

RP
 
I have a '15 dually with the factory overloads. I know some were disappointed when these were released as the configuration wasn't what the mockups suggested. They suggested more of a heavier duty version of the ones on the 2500's. However, I'm happy with the route they took. If they were to go on the blink, there's the leafsprings to do the job. Since it is in conjunction with leafsprings this also leads to another small gripe some have, and that's the system has very limited range of options. This is of course because of the leaf springs. You can't lower the suspension by dumping the bags since the leaf springs are there.

I only pulled my "heavy" trailer once with the new truck before selling the trailer. My only use now is 1k in the bed, and a tag-a-long with about 1k of tongue weight. For my "light duty" use, it keeps everything going down the road as well as I could imagine. I can't speak for those running trailers with much higher kingpin/gooseneck weights. The factory propaganda states it will keep things level up through GVW. I'd love to hear if it will keep things level even when overloaded. There's gotta be some hotshotters out there with some of the higher weights running this that could chime in.

Mike
 
I like the factory rear air ride option. The truck rides great loaded or unloaded. Here is a pic of the truck with over 5K pin weight. It stays at this level no matter the load up to maximum rear axle weight rating.

IMG_2318.jpg


IMG_2318.jpg
 
Trying to finish an article for the next TDR magazine (due out in August). Your experiences
RP

Great Idea! Maybe you can get us some attention. The truck in my signature has the factory (2500) auto-level air suspension.

My two most significant complaints have to do with the lack of understanding of the system. There is no relevant information in the owners manual or on Tech Authority, and I can't find a living soul - and I've tried - who actually understands how the system works. What I DO know is that it is totally automated, and the user cannot effect it in any way other than to turn the "alt-ride height" on or off.

1. If you load a trailer (attach your 5th wheel and lower onto the hitch, effecting the weight received by the truck) without the engine running, the truck will indicate that you have exceeded the maximum weight which the system can handle (via a note in the EVIC). Same is true if you load the trailer AND THEN push the alt-ride-hieght button. You must push the button, let the truck adjust, lower the trailer onto the hitch and then allow the truck to adjust again - with the engine running. If not, go ahead and unhook your trailer and start over, or you'll never get the light off, and the truck will literally be squashed by the trailer as you drive away with the system not functioning. If you were shoveling dirt or gravel into the back over an hour or more would you have to leave the truck on? I haven't tried.

2. When you go to unhitch, the system - in "alt-ride-height" mode because you've been towing your trailer - "chases" the trailer up as you lift the trailer with the jacks due to the high pressure in the air bags to accommodate the weight of the trailer. When it then realizes that you've removed the weight, it decreases the pressure in the bags, leaving the truck "hanging" from the hitch, and your pin box. If I try to pull away in this condition to unhitch, I often find that the friction on the hitch causes the truck to pull on the trailer, dragging the landing gear which are now holding an enormous load - not so good. If you turn the truck off so that it doesn't sense that you've removed the weight, you'll have to raise your trailer WAY up to get it off, as the bags will continue to expand with the truck following the trailer up.

3. This is not really a comment on the design of the system, as lift kits or leveling kits are not intended by the manufacturer, but go ahead and try to put a leveling kit on your auto-level Ram (no one has yet as far as I can tell). If you "level" the truck with a front end kit (raise the front by 2 inches) in the "standard" ride height mode, then when you set that alt-ride-height, the truck will ride with the bed 2" lower than the new front height of the truck. If you go ahead and extend the sensor rods to get the rear up again (this works if you adjust the rods), then the truck is level in alt-ride-height mode (just like stock) except the whole truck is 2" higher. But when you turn alt-ride-height off, the rear rises again, and your truck is not level! I have a thread called "Hacks" which discusses some of this stuff, but if someone can allow us to modify the programming of the auto-level (with a "box"), we could remedy all of this.

All that said, once hooked up properly, the system DOES work, and the truck stays perfectly level. I have tried it with class 5 hitch trailers w tongue weights around 1 thousand pounds and my 5th wheel with a pin weight of 2,100 pounds. It works. If that's all you ask, and you can live with the idiosyncrasies of the programming during hitching and unhitching, you probably like it. For me, I would have much preferred a "manual" system like I put in my old truck, with Firestone Ride-Rite bags, in about two hours of work one evening. Even once I had added an onboard compressor, a gauge, switches, etc, the system only cost $500. That's a third of the cost of the factory system and infinitely more adaptable and controllable. I had it for many thousands of miles and it never failed to work perfectly.

I must say I'm disappointed in the computerized systems in this truck. The ones required for emissions don't bother me - I want the air clean like the next guy, but the automated "user" functions like the 8.4AN radio and all its attachments, the RF hub and the lower-panel controls for the exhaust brake and the alt-ride-height just aren't very well thought out or implemented. I'm shocked Ram let them escape the drawing board in this condition...
 
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The major fault of the factory air ride system (as posted above) is the lack of a "squat to pee" option. When loading / unloading the trailer it is too quick to react to the weight being taken off of it. It should not be a stretch to have the alt ride height switch also have a position that dumps the pressure from the bags. Even if it automatically re inflated after 3 or 5 mph that would be acceptable.
 
It should not be a stretch to have the alt ride height switch also have a position that dumps the pressure from the bags. Even if it automatically re inflated after 3 or 5 mph that would be acceptable.
EXACTLY! With the automatic computerized crap on these trucks, having it "auto-infate" after driving away would be extremely easy to implement, or when you put it in gear, release the parking brake.... SOMETHING!

I used to have a '13 half ton with factory air ride at all corners, rode like a dream and was also adjustable in height. Never had any issues with "not having it set right" and the computer not knowing there was a trailer, etc. It was kind of a pain however having it "chase the trailer" as I was unhitching. I finally found the best way was to leave the truck running, jack the trailer up to what I thought was right, then wait about 20-30 seconds for the computer to dump the air leveling the truck effectively dropping it away from the trailer, I never pulled a 5th wheel with it of course, but can see how that would be a total pain in the ***.

I could even drop the truck to the ground with the key fob, not that a 1/2 ton was hard to get in and out of in the first place...
 
Could putting the truck in it's tire changing or transport mode help alleviate some of these issues when hitching/unhitching? It's a pain to get to it, but if you have the 8.4AN you just go into Settings and there's a section for the air ride. Not sure how to achieve the same thing on trucks without the upgraded radio. I'm real happy this thread is happening.... I too have searched for info and there's little to be found. So far it seems to work alright for me, but I'm not hitching huge fivers on to it either.
 
Love mine. 3500 SRW with factory air in rear. Dislike is stated above-can't place truck in alternate ride height prior to adding pin weight. I could on the 2500 I had. Makes hooking up easier.

Ride is great for a 3500. Hard to say if it's worth the price, but it's nice having all the electronics built into dash. No issues to date. Really like that RAM thinks outside the box and tries to meet customer's needs.
 
I like the factory rear air ride option. The truck rides great loaded or unloaded. Here is a pic of the truck with over 5K pin weight. It stays at this level no matter the load up to maximum rear axle weight rating.

I almost want to make your pic my wallpaper, with that trailer in it. I have such an RV crush on your trailer. I've been in one before. I'm not sure if folks here really know just how nice Mobile Suites trailers are.
 
I almost want to make your pic my wallpaper, with that trailer in it. I have such an RV crush on your trailer. I've been in one before. I'm not sure if folks here really know just how nice Mobile Suites trailers are.

If you like that one this one will get your panties in a twist for sure. Our new 39TKSB3 Mobile Suites.

IMG_2837.jpg


IMG_2837.jpg
 
With the 3500 DRW we believe it works real well. This is how we hook & unhook:

1: Switch system to transport mode, (EVIC screen) which in effect dumps the air in the bags back to the tank.

2: After hook, switch the transport mode off. (EVIC screen) Which levels the truck to approximate unloaded height. After the truck levels to unloaded height, hit the Alt Trailer Height button on the switch panel. Truck then levels to Alt ride height with trailer. If we forget to uncheck transport mode before departure it will automatically switches to unloaded height mode when you hit approximately 15 mph. Reminding to switch to Alt. Trailer Height.

3: When unhooking trailer after spot, switch to transport mode again to lower truck-trailer to ease jacking and unhook. Then after all maneuvers switch the transport mode to off again to restore normal ride height. Or just let it do it itself when truck gets to 15 mph (door lock speed).

WE REALLY LIKE THE SYSTEM AND HOW IT WORKS. Although it could use some tweaking to be more consumer friendly. I see the leveling sensors above the axle on each side "could" be adjusted to personalize the height you really want or need. I also realize that it is part of the electronic stability control system and it might effect that process.

I have NO regrets adding this system to the build. It is engineered to be used while towing or loaded. Although we have used all the recommended tire pressure settings, it boils down to this: If you are concerned about ride quality while empty, do not buy a truck with this system. I believe after market shocks and better quality tires will also improve the over all ride of truck empty or loaded.

I also know that the 2500 system is deferent if not opposite in some functions. I have seen one in action but, did not notice all the function deference's.
 
With the 3500 DRW we believe it works real well. This is how we hook & unhook:

1: Switch system to transport mode, (EVIC screen) which in effect dumps the air in the bags back to the tank.

2: After hook, switch the transport mode off. (EVIC screen) Which levels the truck to approximate unloaded height. After the truck levels to unloaded height, hit the Alt Trailer Height button on the switch panel. Truck then levels to Alt ride height with trailer. If we forget to uncheck transport mode before departure it will automatically switches to unloaded height mode when you hit approximately 15 mph. Reminding to switch to Alt. Trailer Height.

3: When unhooking trailer after spot, switch to transport mode again to lower truck-trailer to ease jacking and unhook. Then after all maneuvers switch the transport mode to off again to restore normal ride height. Or just let it do it itself when truck gets to 15 mph (door lock speed).

WE REALLY LIKE THE SYSTEM AND HOW IT WORKS. Although it could use some tweaking to be more consumer friendly. I see the leveling sensors above the axle on each side "could" be adjusted to personalize the height you really want or need. I also realize that it is part of the electronic stability control system and it might effect that process.

I have NO regrets adding this system to the build. It is engineered to be used while towing or loaded. Although we have used all the recommended tire pressure settings, it boils down to this: If you are concerned about ride quality while empty, do not buy a truck with this system. I believe after market shocks and better quality tires will also improve the over all ride of truck empty or loaded.

I also know that the 2500 system is deferent if not opposite in some functions. I have seen one in action but, did not notice all the function deference's.

This is how I figured you could get around the above stated nuances, by turning the system off.

With 80psi in the front, and 65 psi in the back (the recommended pressure on the door jam of my DRW truck), I find the ride to be excellent, particularly now that my truck is longer. I think it drives better than my 2nd gen dually, and even my 2nd gen half ton I had in the mid 90's. My wife commented that it is a bit smoother than our SRT8 Grand Cherokee even. So yes, it's not a Cadillac, but I still think it drives pretty darn good for a truck with a GVW of 14k lbs, and a GCVWR of 37,800. To get any truck that can carry more you'll be sitting on an air seat to smooth the ride.
 
Mongolia those pressures are for the max load your truck is designed to handle. The front axle is near max weight rating of the tires so I just leave mine at 80 front all the time. The rears I run at 40 psi unloaded and 60 with just over a 5K pin weight on the rear tires.
 
Excellent write-up. I had not thought of switching to transport mode, then hooking up. I will try it this weekend! Thanks again! Great post!

With the 3500 DRW we believe it works real well. This is how we hook & unhook:

1: Switch system to transport mode, (EVIC screen) which in effect dumps the air in the bags back to the tank.

2: After hook, switch the transport mode off. (EVIC screen) Which levels the truck to approximate unloaded height. After the truck levels to unloaded height, hit the Alt Trailer Height button on the switch panel. Truck then levels to Alt ride height with trailer. If we forget to uncheck transport mode before departure it will automatically switches to unloaded height mode when you hit approximately 15 mph. Reminding to switch to Alt. Trailer Height.

3: When unhooking trailer after spot, switch to transport mode again to lower truck-trailer to ease jacking and unhook. Then after all maneuvers switch the transport mode to off again to restore normal ride height. Or just let it do it itself when truck gets to 15 mph (door lock speed).

WE REALLY LIKE THE SYSTEM AND HOW IT WORKS. Although it could use some tweaking to be more consumer friendly. I see the leveling sensors above the axle on each side "could" be adjusted to personalize the height you really want or need. I also realize that it is part of the electronic stability control system and it might effect that process.

I have NO regrets adding this system to the build. It is engineered to be used while towing or loaded. Although we have used all the recommended tire pressure settings, it boils down to this: If you are concerned about ride quality while empty, do not buy a truck with this system. I believe after market shocks and better quality tires will also improve the over all ride of truck empty or loaded.

I also know that the 2500 system is deferent if not opposite in some functions. I have seen one in action but, did not notice all the function deference's.
 
Mongolia those pressures are for the max load your truck is designed to handle. The front axle is near max weight rating of the tires so I just leave mine at 80 front all the time. The rears I run at 40 psi unloaded and 60 with just over a 5K pin weight on the rear tires.

Yeah, I know. I used to run my 2nd gen dually at 45 in the back. Honestly, I'm too lazy to adjust the pressures up and down based on which trailer I'm pulling (or unloaded) and since it drives fine at 65, I'll just keep it there and know I'll likely get less miles out of them.
 
Some people are using CC for "Chassis Cab." Others are using CC for Crew Cab. It is hard to know what is your truck
 
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