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Bought a new 2105 TDI Passat

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Bought a new 2015 (not 2105) VW TDI Passst yesterday. Been looking for a few weeks at used ones, they hold there value pretty good and decide to go new. Drives and handles great can't wait and see what the true MPG are going to be! It's an automatic and the SEL model. I only hope it gives us the same reliability and dependability as our Cummins has over all these years!!! We shall see!
 
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I wish they still offered a Passat TDI wagon.
The Jetta Sportwagon isn't in the stars due to further lowering of the chassis and roofline.
 
I think they discontinued the jetta wagon in favor of the golf wagon. ?
DO NOT RUN IT OUT OF FUEL!!!! EVER!!! It will be a very costly mistake.
In the summer you should get about 50 with good fuel and all highway as long as you stay under 80. Cruise on.
You'll lose some of that in the winter especially if youre driving it locally.
ymmv
BTW I'm real damn close to an 15 Passat TDI SEL. Dealer keeps sending me "coupons".
Since my parents found out what MPG's my 12 was getting, they took it from me! :D
 
I think you will enjoy the Passat TDI. When we bought my wife's Jetta TDI in 2011; the Passat was not offered in a diesel not until 2012 or 2013 I believe. The only quirky thing about the Passat that I have read about is how you fill the DEF tank. From what I read you need a special filling device/ bottle that needs to be purchased can't fill from a 5 gallon jug. At least this is what I have read on line.

We just had the 40,000 mile/4 year service on her car at the VW dealer cost was around $860. This includes all fluids and filters along with the DSG transmission service also. This was the most expensive part of the service I think the transmission alone was over $450.

At least we get free car washes as long as we own her car. Almost every week she takes the car in for a car wash.

Jim
 
Yea, we get free washes too.
I did the 40K service on the 2012 last week. IIRC it was $200 delivered for oil & filters for the DSG service and oil change. Got it from baluparts.com. I think the DSG service kit alone was $150 shipped.
The dealer in Maine wanted $750`ish w/o the engine oil change.
$450 is CHEAP! I wouldnt have touched it if I was quoted that price.

EDIT: We filled the ad blue tank from a 1 gallon bottle with a funnel. It wasnt a problem. Didnt spill a drop. I would imagine filling with a 5 gal can would be a PITA.
It took nearly the entire gallon.
 
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Recently did the 40K on my wife's 2012 TDI Jetta.. to do it right you need to monitor the DSG temp, and have the software and interface, then the parts.. but the special fill tool of nearly $200 is not really needed, it can be filled from a funnel from the filter housing on the top, but is it slow due to small hole, but I used this method, even though I had the tool, because you have less wasted special fluid that is pretty expensive.. other thing, new tool: builder's level> yes, the car must be precisely level to ensure the proper level, at 35C for the process.. I did it twice sadly, because the first kit had 2 of the 5 liters of oil of the wrong type, but the seller sent a new kit, free of charge and expedited shipping to correct it. Kerma TDI had the best prices and kits for DIY service on these TDIs. When I'm driving I get nearly 50 MPG mixed, about 45 MPG if in town... take off about 5 MPG for my wife's driving.. It has been a great car, and quite nice to drive. Having said all that.. I've not seen any DEF fluid fill on my 2012... Pretty sure there isn't one!! Must be a later addition.
 
we had a 2012 TDI wagen and loved it until the Dealer Ontario VW in Ca. Screwed it up . was in the shop 9 times in 6 month's .What was Nice is VW stood Behind there Vehicle and with 1 Phone Call they Replaced it with a 2014 TDI wagen .and we have yet to hit the 10,000 mile mark with it .but the Warr. Started over along with everything else we bought when we first got the car. VW is a Stand up Company if you ask me
 
We only put about 100 miles on the car so far... and really like it! It really moves out when you want it to and handles really nice! The only thing that concerns me is all the electronics the car has especially the push to start, no key locks on the doors (only need to have the key close to the car and touch the handle and car unlocks), I guess time will tell.
 
Recently did the 40K on my wife's 2012 TDI Jetta.. to do it right you need to monitor the DSG temp, and have the software and interface, then the parts.. but the special fill tool of nearly $200 is not really needed, it can be filled from a funnel from the filter housing on the top, but is it slow due to small hole, but I used this method, even though I had the tool, because you have less wasted special fluid that is pretty expensive.. other thing, new tool: builder's level> yes, the car must be precisely level to ensure the proper level, at 35C for the process.. I did it twice sadly, because the first kit had 2 of the 5 liters of oil of the wrong type, but the seller sent a new kit, free of charge and expedited shipping to correct it. Kerma TDI had the best prices and kits for DIY service on these TDIs. When I'm driving I get nearly 50 MPG mixed, about 45 MPG if in town... take off about 5 MPG for my wife's driving.. It has been a great car, and quite nice to drive. Having said all that.. I've not seen any DEF fluid fill on my 2012... Pretty sure there isn't one!! Must be a later addition.

The reason I bought from Blauparts is it COMES with the special filling adapter. (saved me about $30 + shipping)Sure, it's made of some sort of plastic, but it works! The bottles the oil comes in has a special adapter that fits onto the filling tubing. Pretty conveinent. If I was a mechanic, I'd invest in the actual tool & vag-com stuff. In leu of the vag-com I used a non contact infared thermometer.

The Jetta TDI has a different type of emissions system. It dont use the ad blue stuff. I'm told the passat's get slightly better MPG's, but you need to use the ad blue.
I think the passat's and jettas are still like this. Dont know about the TDI golf....
 
There is a fair amount of labor in this job at the 40K, ironically the dealer covers maintenance up to this point, and then it gets really expensive! To do the 40K the battery has to come out (DSG filter is under it), as well as battery mount, but it is not hard. Don’t be alarmed when you finish and start the car to all kinds of warning lights from the battery removal, they should clear after a short drive, but on the second time I did it I did connect temporary 12V power so I could avoid this altogether.. but it is really not needed.

Here is the DSG kit I used, and best price I could find, just a shade over $100:

http://www.kermatdi.com/dsg-service-kit-40k/

Or if you want the oil only, Amazon has this DSG oil that has the correct specification:

Liqui Moly 3640 Dual Clutch Gear Oil - 1 Liter
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ABX8R2E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

These are the best instructions I found, and show a funnel method, that I used and can be done without the special tool, which I did find and buy, but really did not need it:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/d...cement-service-vw-and-audi-stronic-oil-flush/

I should note, if you do the top fill method, and measure ACCURATELY, you can get by without the VCDS and reading the 35C temperature of the fluid.. I did find my measurement worked, though being cautious, I did get the cable and software, which lets you read virtually any trouble code on the car, and make programing changes as needed, it does much more than needed but will likely be quite helpful later.. it did indicate I have an issue with a pressure sensor on cylinder 1, but I’m not getting a driving problem, and no MIL light.. so something I’m monitoring.

BE SURE you have the correct fluid, it has to have the specification from VW G 052 182 A2.

The reason this is important, the DSG is a “wet” (dual) clutch transmission.. the fluid properties are critical to be correct for the clutches to work as designed (friction modifiers, no doubt)… it is impossible to know how any other fluid will work, but we can assume most likely they will cause problems.
Cheapest price I found for the VAS 6262A tool is here, if you really want one:

http://shopfreedomracing.com/Oil-Filler-Tool-VAS6262A-VAS6262A.htm

One other note, for the Engine oil change… the drain plug has to be replaced, if you use it. It has a non-replaceable crush washer on it.. so get a new plug, or use a vacuum pump out the dipstick tube and avoid the mess and hassle completely.

For oil, Amazon has good choices for the correct specification oil, and prices are best I could find.. you won’t get the right oil at WalMart, and Rottella T6 is not specifically approved, though some say they use it.. but I’d be cautious.. the Liqui Moly, or Total oils on Amazon, do have the VW approval and specification for the TDI engine, including extended intervals.

Useful tool for the oil filter housing, a 32mm short socket, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01&pldnSite=1

K&N and many others have the filters, I like the K&N and used one for the engine air and cabin air, I like that they are re-chargeable and re-usable. (not the oil though).
Engine Oil:

Total (188058-5QT) Quartz INEO Long Life ACEA/API 5W-30 Engine Oil - 5 Quart
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NFFE4YA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Liqui Moly (2011) Top Tec 4200 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Liter Jug
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPL8R8O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Filters, K & N:
http://www.knfilters.com/
 
The 2015 Jetta Tdi dsg now uses def and it is an upgraded engine with some exterior and interior differences. We just bought a 2015 Jetta Tdi dsg and traded in our 2011 Jetta tdi dsg . The dsg must be programmed different too, feels like a different car compared to the 2011.
 
We only put about 100 miles on the car so far... and really like it! It really moves out when you want it to and handles really nice! The only thing that concerns me is all the electronics the car has especially the push to start, no key locks on the doors (only need to have the key close to the car and touch the handle and car unlocks), I guess time will tell.

I have a '12 TDI JSW 6 speed. My car has all the electronics you're talking about. We've got a little over 100K miles on it now and only had one problem. The dinger quit working when the seat belts weren't worn. Cars been fantastic and will purchase another one.

If you're not already on it, check out www.tdiclub.com. There's lots of info on there.
 
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Guys thanks for all the responses and I will definitely join the TDI club! If if it is anything like the TDR--- priceless!
Thanks again, Frank
 
You are going to want to take a look at this.. I posted in the TDIclub under "mro1791":

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=308323&highlight=HPFP

Long story short, VW has had many issues with the version of high pressure fuel pump they use on the TDI. It is a Bosch 4.x pump (there has been several design changes) but suffice it to say, they fail often, and they extended the warranty to 10 years/120K, but that is not a real fix.

I did the filter change a few days ago, filter had only about 14K on it, interval is 20K.. found metal particles in the filter, that is NOT normal. The pump when if fails sends metal particles EVERYWHERE in the fuel system, from tank to injector.. as an engineer, there are many things wrong with this design.

The TDIclub as a member "2micron" who had developed a kit to install a version of the CP3 similar to what Cummins uses on the VW, this I think, is my path forward.

I only have about 45K and 3 years on the car, so the pump is still theoretically covered, but the metal in the filter is not sufficient for VW to replace, they need to see it in the pump! By then it is TOO LATE. When this part fails it is sudden, there are 181 complaints on the NHTSA site for this failure (by contrast, Cummins with CP3 pump in same search showed ZERO complaints!!), and it happens without warning, and often strands drivers on the side of the road, worse, the failure can cost nearly $9000 because the entire system has to be cleaned or replaced from tank to injectors.. this is serious concern. The original NHTSA investigation was on the 2009-2010 cars, mine is a 2012, and the failures continue, so clearly the design changes they've tried have NOT WORKED.

They would not replace my pump, but dealer did charge me $120 for the attempt to get VW to authorize a warranty repair.. now I have a ticking time bomb of a car I know will die at some unpredictable time.. and I do run a Stanydyne additive.. and do meticulous maintenance on this car..
 
Call VW we had the same Problem on our 2012 TDI Wagen they replaced the whole fuel system on it and it ended up in the shop 9 times in 6 month's .We Called VW and they Put us into a New 2014 VW TDI wagen at no cost to us what so ever . So it Pay's to Call VW and this was done with 1 Phone Call .
 
You are going to want to take a look at this.. I posted in the TDIclub under "mro1791":

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=308323&highlight=HPFP

Long story short, VW has had many issues with the version of high pressure fuel pump they use on the TDI. It is a Bosch 4.x pump (there has been several design changes) but suffice it to say, they fail often, and they extended the warranty to 10 years/120K, but that is not a real fix.

I did the filter change a few days ago, filter had only about 14K on it, interval is 20K.. found metal particles in the filter, that is NOT normal. The pump when if fails sends metal particles EVERYWHERE in the fuel system, from tank to injector.. as an engineer, there are many things wrong with this design.

The TDIclub as a member "2micron" who had developed a kit to install a version of the CP3 similar to what Cummins uses on the VW, this I think, is my path forward.

I only have about 45K and 3 years on the car, so the pump is still theoretically covered, but the metal in the filter is not sufficient for VW to replace, they need to see it in the pump! By then it is TOO LATE. When this part fails it is sudden, there are 181 complaints on the NHTSA site for this failure (by contrast, Cummins with CP3 pump in same search showed ZERO complaints!!), and it happens without warning, and often strands drivers on the side of the road, worse, the failure can cost nearly $9000 because the entire system has to be cleaned or replaced from tank to injectors.. this is serious concern. The original NHTSA investigation was on the 2009-2010 cars, mine is a 2012, and the failures continue, so clearly the design changes they've tried have NOT WORKED.

They would not replace my pump, but dealer did charge me $120 for the attempt to get VW to authorize a warranty repair.. now I have a ticking time bomb of a car I know will die at some unpredictable time.. and I do run a Stanydyne additive.. and do meticulous maintenance on this car..

Tanks for posting this…we also drive a 2013 Sportwagen and I purchased the 7 year/100k VW warranty for this very reason of problems with the HPFP destroying the CR system. (figured that a $2300 warranty purchase for the whole vehicle might pay for itself in the advent of an $8000 HPFP failure/repair) I always thought that someone should make an aftermarket filter to protect the VW tdi engine in case of HPFP failure... I will look into this 2 micron filter system as the warranty comes to a close.
 
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Tanks for posting this…we also drive a 2013 Sportwagen and I purchased the 7 year/100k VW warranty for this very reason of problems with the HPFP destroying the CR system. (figured that a $2300 warranty purchase for the whole vehicle might pay for itself in the advent of an $8000 HPFP failure/repair) I always thought that someone should make an aftermarket filter to protect the VW tdi engine in case of HPFP failure... I will look into this 2 micron filter system as the warranty comes to a close.

True, the warranty might lessen the financial impact of a pump failure, but my concern is more than just that, and that alone is bad enough (and you should not have had to pay even more for that coverage, given the cost of the car is plenty in the first place! Did they send you the letter extending the HPFP to 10yr/120K? Got mine, but not sure the value of this).

What concerns me is this pump fails catastrophically, with little prior warning. The NHTSA complaints are lengthy, and the failures are frequently while pulling into traffic, or at highway speed.. the engine dies, the MIL comes on, chime, and the glow plug warning light flashes.. car won't restart, stranded on side of road, or worse, in accident from someone running you over from not expecting your sudden loss of power and them not paying attention.

The metal I found is not normal to a fuel system, my Cummins does not have metal, my prior Duramax, NO METAL, both CP3 injection pumps.. the CP3 seems to be a better pump.

On some of the VW TDI boards there are horror stories of failures just outside the 120K extended coverage.. and I don't think that number was pulled out of nowhere, VW choose it for a reason, knowing MOST failures will happen post 120K, but quite a few do happen prior. I have almost 200K on my 1996 Saturn, minimal maintenance in that time, and still consider it reliable and a daily driver (averaging 38MPG, uses some oil, but at that MPG oil is cheap!).

The Ford and GM trucks using the CP4.2 are also seeing more early and catastrophic failures.. as an engineer and looking at the design of the 4.x pumps I can see the weakness is the cam roller arrangement, the CP3 does not have any cam/roller whatsoever. In the cam roller there is no anti-rotation, and the roller sits in a piston like part, which can try to rotate, and is free to so do so at top and bottom of cam profile, only the rise and drop of the cycle has an effect to keep it straight, but when it starts to wear, they tend to go 90 degrees out, and then wear very rapidly, puking metal parts that are circulated in the low and high pressure sides, which go from tank to injector.. the design does not have to let the circulation go to the HP side at all, but does, and the return side COULD be filtered and then prevent spread of damage, but it is not. The 2micron has a way to solve the spread of the damage, and even better the CP3 upgrade.

Warranty or not, I just can't have a car that could rapidly and catastrophically fail with little warning.. sure any car CAN do this, but this has a history and it is well documented, and the repairs are much more expensive and difficult than just about any other car.. this is a flaw that the manufacture is NOT warning the customer about, kind of like the cigarette manufactures hiding their own internal data on harm their product can cause.. I don't see how this ends well for any of the vehicles using the CP4.x series pumps, but they are CHEAPER, and easier to manufacture, over the CP3 and that seems to be the only reason they are out there.. and that is really sad.
 
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