Normal Transmission Temps? Where is the best place for an aftermarket Trans cooler

[CrewCabDiesel]

Ok, Not sure what are normal transmission Temps for a re48. The Transmission is built with extra clutches, shift kit/updated valve body, a triple lock converter and a bunch of billet parts and a deep transmission pan the holds 6 more quarts of transmission fluid. My pan temp gauge reads 180-190 degrees and the Edge reads 225-230 degrees when towing about 15k lbs around town and about 20 degrees lower at highway speeds with Overdrive. Anyone have an idea where I should be? the Edge temp readings worry me.

I also just ordered a BD dual layer trans cooler with a 800cfm fan, has anyone installed one before and where is the best place to put it?
Thanks
Kyle

 

[p-Bar]

temps sound about right . Edge is pulling data from OBDII but not sure where the sensor is located . I bought e Derale cooler sounds the same as your thinking on putting it near trans and using some hydraulic hose and fittings . The key to keeping low temps is to keep that torque converter locked up . I have a sender unit in the line going out to the cooler because I want to know if I am cooking off my fluid .

 

[cerberusiam]

The Edge is reading from the transducer on the VB at the top of the sump where the fluid is warm. The electronic readers tend to run 5-10% higher than the analog ones due to how the ECU interprets the signal. The pan gauge is reading the lower cooler fluid in the sump. Both are probably about where the temps are intended to be.

Either way this is a perfect example of how random using the pan for temp readings is. There are excellent reasons for having that probe in the cooler output for accuracy and pro-active driving. You would not believe how fast hot line temp can go from 190 to 260 degrees with a heavy load, a heavy foot, and hot weather. Really makes you drive pro-active to keep it out of save-itself mode and control temps.

Typically you will want your trans cooler in the return leg of the existing system, disconnect and cut the rear cooler line to route to the fan mounted under the bed than back to the rear trans cooler inlet. You do run some risk here with making other modifications. The rear cooler input line is the lube and cooling t-for the trans drive train. A stock system is sized for flow to be adequate and that is about it. Adding length and restriction will reduce that flow. Highly recommended the drain back check ball is removed and a shift kit installed if using aux coolers.

 

[BigPapa]

My sensor is in the line going to the factory cooler. Stays at 150* unless towing unlocked or playing and has been a bit over 190*.

I still say the extra capacity pans hurt cooling instead of helping. More fluid takes slightly longer to heat up, but once it's hot it takes quite a while longer to cool down more fluid.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

The trans cooler I ordered has a 5/8 tubes and I am also looking for a source of steel 1/2 tubing for some of the plumbing and also for fuel lines. I want to avoid any sharp bends with either rubber or metal lines to keep any restriction at a minimum. I was also thinking running two extra wires from the cooler, one for an indicator light when the fan is on and a override switch to turn on the fan manually if needed.

 

[p-Bar]

My sensor is in the line going to the factory cooler. Stays at 150* unless towing unlocked or playing and has been a bit over 190*.

I still say the extra capacity pans hurt cooling instead of helping. More fluid takes slightly longer to heat up, but once it's hot it takes quite a while longer to cool down more fluid.

Yes you are right it's known as thermal mass

 

[p-Bar]

The trans cooler I ordered has a 5/8 tubes and I am also looking for a source of steel 1/2 tubing for some of the plumbing and also for fuel lines. I want to avoid any sharp bends with either rubber or metal lines to keep any restriction at a minimum. I was also thinking running two extra wires from the cooler, one for an indicator light when the fan is on and a override switch to turn on the fan manually if needed.

Go to a shop that makes hydraulic hoses that is your best and easiest solution

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Well I got the BD Trans cooler installed, boy I hope its worth it! What a PITA, the kit needs both better instructions and materials! The suggestion to use hydraulic lines is awesome and I plan on doing that as soon as possible! The cooler and the wiring harness itself looks like a great parts but the oversize erector set install kit SUCKS! I don't know who had their head up their butt, but cheap self taping bolts into the frame is not the way to go. Using a trick I learned from installing hitches I attached a MIG wire to the end of a bolt and used the wire to pull the bolt through the frame and through the mounting hole and bolted in the brackets that way.
So right now the edge temps are closer to the pan temps and over all temps are 20 degrees lower without a load on. I will post further results when I load it all down and see if $600 trans cooler was worth it.
Kyle