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2015 auto or manual trans?

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Anyone know (or have an opinion on) if the G56 overheating is exacerbated by an optional skid plate (4x4).
Just wondering if restricting the air flow might affect it's running temps. Flirted with the idea of adding stock skid plates. But now thinking that might not be the best option.
 
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Isn't the skid plate under the transfer case? I never thought about it, I'd give it a try, but now have the
Cooler.

Haven't seem the skid plates on the ram. But on an old Isuzu Amigo I had, it also covered most of the oil pan.
Anyone know if Ram HD skid plates partly protect the oil pan?
 
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Here are three photod of my Aisin equipped truck.

Back of engine pan and transmission. No skidplate

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Front of transfer case

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Rear of transfer case/front of fuel tank with funny duck thingy.

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SNOKING
 
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Not sure of any connection between a 4th GEN RAM HD pickup and an Isuzu Amigo.... :confused:

My 2014 RAM 3500 is equipped with the Heavy Duty Snow Plow Prep Group (220A alternator & Protection Group / transfer case skidplate).

Not making any connection between an Amigo and a Ram. Just thought skid plates were somewhat consistent in what they covered. A neighbor of mine hit some road debris on the hwy 15 years ago that put a hole in his oil pan. Just wondering why these skid plates don't protect the most vulnerable underneath parts? The transfer case housing seems like a sturdy casting. Can understand the fuel tank skid plate.
 
Here are three photo of my Aisin equipped truck.

Back of engine pan and transmission. No skidplate

#ad


Front of transfer case

#ad


Rear of transfer case/front of fuel tank with funny duck thingy.

#ad


SNOKING

Helpful photos. Thx
 
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I think they want to protect the low hanging fruit in the center of the wheel base. The Engine and transmission are both far enough ahead and high to not get high centers in an off road situation. SNOKING
 
you guys sure take your transmissions seriously. In '03 when I joined this forum the first time, you had a manual or you had a pile of crap auto. It was all about the 4500 or the 5600. Now it's the Aisin. Times have changed. I still have a hard time with an automatic behind a diesel. I've been diesel truck mech for 15 years and if your truck has an auto, you're not a truck driver. Take an Allison for example. I had 2 trucks in less than 10 days with a bad trans ECM. When the trans ECM dies, the truck won't restart. WTF? Yeah, you can jump the starter, and get it running, but you're still stuck. Took the ECM to the local Allison, they said " yeah, that batch of ECM's was bad, they all fail, usually in 30K miles or less". So I'm still undecided on what trans to buy. And now I will be putting off buying a new truck until next spring because of other issues. You guys have fun with this trans debate.
 
you guys sure take your transmissions seriously. In '03 when I joined this forum the first time, you had a manual or you had a pile of crap auto. It was all about the 4500 or the 5600. Now it's the Aisin. Times have changed. I still have a hard time with an automatic behind a diesel. I've been diesel truck mech for 15 years and if your truck has an auto, you're not a truck driver. Take an Allison for example. I had 2 trucks in less than 10 days with a bad trans ECM. When the trans ECM dies, the truck won't restart. WTF? Yeah, you can jump the starter, and get it running, but you're still stuck. Took the ECM to the local Allison, they said " yeah, that batch of ECM's was bad, they all fail, usually in 30K miles or less". So I'm still undecided on what trans to buy. And now I will be putting off buying a new truck until next spring because of other issues. You guys have fun with this trans debate.

GSBROCKMAN has over 100 k on his Aisin. If I'm not mistaken. But I have to somewhat think in general if your transmission ECM is exposed to humidity, weather elements, or heat, it won't last.

My buddy had a 98 Dodge with Cummins that he traded in with almost 500 k on it.

He says it ran even when the electronics were fried. I told him mine was "drive by wire". He thought that was funny.
The throttle control on these Cummins is all electronic. Used to be mechanical.
 
When the trans ECM dies, the truck won't restart. WTF?

That is a platform and vendor specific symptom. Every one of those transmissions has a limp mode that will allow the truck to start and be driven albeit at much reduced power and speed. This is done so the monkeys they put behind the wheel cannot trash expensive equipment because they haven't a clue about the consequences. A real operator is hard to find these days, the bulk of the gear jammers on the road are not even close.

Take a look at high power applications, like the 1500 to 2500 HP engines, and see what they run. Yeah, it is that darned old auto transmission. When there is real work to be done on a constant basis it is not an anemic 6 speed manual backing it up, it is a high dollar +9 speed auto trans handling the load. If that doesn't help tip the decision nothing is going to.

It is not that the G56 is a bad transmission, it is just limited in what it can handle and out classed by the current crop of auto transmissions in many areas. Considering the cost of these trucks settling for so much less JUST to have another pedal borders on silly. An auto trans built and used correctly will always top the efficiency of a manual trans in these LD trucks, it just the way it is.
 
Anyone know (or have an opinion on) if the G56 overheating is exacerbated by an optional skid plate (4x4).
Just wondering if restricting the air flow might affect it's running temps. Flirted with the idea of adding stock skid plates. But now thinking that might not be the best option.

I'd be surprised if OEM skid plates (limited coverage) caused a substantial heat retention problem.

Let me know if you add them and if/how they fit...I've been thinking about trying to fit Power Wagon skids to my 2500, or making some. My interest is primarily off-highway protection.
 
That is a platform and vendor specific symptom. Every one of those transmissions has a limp mode that will allow the truck to start and be driven albeit at much reduced power and speed. This is done so the monkeys they put behind the wheel cannot trash expensive equipment because they haven't a clue about the consequences. A real operator is hard to find these days, the bulk of the gear jammers on the road are not even close.

Take a look at high power applications, like the 1500 to 2500 HP engines, and see what they run. Yeah, it is that darned old auto transmission. When there is real work to be done on a constant basis it is not an anemic 6 speed manual backing it up, it is a high dollar +9 speed auto trans handling the load. If that doesn't help tip the decision nothing is going to.

It is not that the G56 is a bad transmission, it is just limited in what it can handle and out classed by the current crop of auto transmissions in many areas. Considering the cost of these trucks settling for so much less JUST to have another pedal borders on silly. An auto trans built and used correctly will always top the efficiency of a manual trans in these LD trucks, it just the way it is.

Who makes a 1500-2500 HP engine? I can't find one made for hwy use. I've seen some putting out more than1200 ft lbs of torque. But most of them seem to be torqey engines, not high HP because they are severly rev limited.
 
An auto trans built and used correctly will always top the efficiency of a manual trans in these LD trucks, it just the way it is.


In a pinch, I can push, pull or coast off a hill and start my manual transmission trucks:D

Nothing sounds better than a big truck with a Cat or Cummins, 6" stacks and a manual transmission going through about 7-8 gears from a stop light. Love that turbo spooling up and down each time. Now when one of the local trash trucks does the same thing in his auto, I don't even look up:-laf

Nick
 
In a pinch, I can push, pull or coast off a hill and start my manual transmission trucks:D

Nick

I've discovered that 3rd gear on the g56 is optimal for roll starts. Have done it with & without trailer in tow. 4th will probably work for faster than a slow roll which might be needed if engine is cold.
 
The way my 3rd gear sounds below 1500 rpm without the DMF prevents me from from attempting doing that. With that said, and with alot of others pointing out the harsh sound in that gear and rpm, the G56 with a DMF masks that noise and though you don't hear it doesn't mean it is OK for the gear or the DMF. I'm only hypothesizing it, but if what if its causing issues you can't hear. In 3rd thru 6th it has the NVH below 1500 rpm, just 3rd sounds like the trany is coming apart, so my shifting points are around 23-2500 rpm to keep the next gear above 1500 rpm.
 
I've discovered that 3rd gear on the g56 is optimal for roll starts. Have done it with & without trailer in tow. 4th will probably work for faster than a slow roll which might be needed if engine is cold.
Do you routinely start your truck by roll-starting when an incline is available???
 
The way my 3rd gear sounds below 1500 rpm without the DMF prevents me from from attempting doing that. With that said, and with alot of others pointing out the harsh sound in that gear and rpm, the G56 with a DMF masks that noise and though you don't hear it doesn't mean it is OK for the gear or the DMF. I'm only hypothesizing it, but if what if its causing issues you can't hear. In 3rd thru 6th it has the NVH below 1500 rpm, just 3rd sounds like the trany is coming apart, so my shifting points are around 23-2500 rpm to keep the next gear above 1500 rpm.

Maybe just three power strokes per motor revolution is just not smooth enough at lower RPM's? SNOKING
 
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