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Bilstein shock install

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alexanderJ

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I am getting ready to install front and back shocks on my 2005 2WD 2500CTD. I have not been able to find good step by step instructions. I know this is not rocket science but I'd like to see what exactly I'm going to deal with. Any help appreciated.
 
I am getting ready to install front and back shocks on my 2005 2WD 2500CTD. I have not been able to find good step by step instructions. I know this is not rocket science but I'd like to see what exactly I'm going to deal with. Any help appreciated.

I installed a set on the front of my '03 3500 4x2 several years ago. I don't remember the exact details, but I do remember having to raise the front of my truck very high to be able to install the shocks up inside the coil springs. IIRC, after I placed the shocks up inside the coils and attached the nut at the top, I used a bottle jack to compress the shocks enough to install the bottom nuts. I don't have a lift which would have made the job easier.

Bill
 
Backs are just like any other vehicle. Unbolt old ones and install new ones.
Fronts are a bit harder as you need to unbolt the shock tower.
1. Disconnect bottom of shock.
2. Three bolts at base of tower.
3. Bring tower and shock out as one piece.
4. Remove Shock from the tower.

You can unbolt shock from tower before unbolting shock tower.

The hard part is getting the tower back down onto its bolts with a gas charged shock. Almost a three hand job.
 
The hard part is getting the tower back down onto its bolts with a gas charged shock. Almost a three hand job.

Lesson learned from my first one.
DON'T CUT THE STRIP ON THE SHOCK from delivery.
Only cut it after the top and bottom bolts and nuts are back together.
I did my second one in a breeze.
 
Lesson learned from my first one.
DON'T CUT THE STRIP ON THE SHOCK from delivery.
Only cut it after the top and bottom bolts and nuts are back together.
I did my second one in a breeze.


THANKS! I knew those strips were on there for a reason, and I was thinking that might be exactly it!!

I'm not at home looking at them, but I was thinking the strips ran through the bolt holes. If so is there enough room to get the bolts through the holes with the strips in there too?
 
I installed a set on the front of my '03 3500 4x2 several years ago. I don't remember the exact details, but I do remember having to raise the front of my truck very high to be able to install the shocks up inside the coil springs.

Maybe springs, not shocks. Shocks must go in from the top. Easier to install if left on the shock tower, harder to get out. Biggest problem will be on the fronts when the nut on the back side of the lower mount seizes, only solution then is a gas wrench.
 
Maybe springs, not shocks. Shocks must go in from the top. Easier to install if left on the shock tower, harder to get out. Biggest problem will be on the fronts when the nut on the back side of the lower mount seizes, only solution then is a gas wrench.

No its a 2wd
 
Please explain. Do you mean easier to install if you attach the new shock to tower first, but "harder" to get out if you leave the old shock attached to tower? Also, what is a gas wrench?

Disregard, I can't tell a 2 from a 4. :rolleyes: 2x4 is way different than a 4x4.
 
Disregard, I can't tell a 2 from a 4. :rolleyes: 2x4 is way different than a 4x4.

No problem, I can't either..ha.

So just go with the instructions above: remove lower bolt, remove tower bringing old shock out with it, install new shock on tower, and then reverse the process? Sounds like a piece of cake................even a caveman could do it. no offense.
 
Disregard, I can't tell a 2 from a 4. :rolleyes: 2x4 is way different than a 4x4.

Yep, 4x2 is IFS (Independent Front Suspension) with rack and pinion steering. :)

On a 4x2, the old shock comes out from the bottom and new shock goes in the same way. On mine I wasn't able to cut the retaining strip once the shock was installed; therefore, I cut the strip before installing, raised the front high enough to feed the expanded shock up through the coil springs from the bottom and attached the top nut to hold the shock in place. (The top nut and locking nut are accessed by reaching over the top of the front wheel/tire). Since the shock was expanded, I used a bottle jack to compress the shock enough to install the nuts on the bottom studs.
No gas wrench necessary. :-laf

Bill
 
On my 06 4x4 I had to cut the strap, the use a floor jack with extender to raise frame [not axle] enough to allow compression of the shock so that the shock tower with 3 nuts can be reattached. It does help to have an assistant, or being 6'2" and fairly strong works too.... Once the nuts are on the 3 bolts of the tower all is good.

Luke
 
Guess there is an advantage of being 220. I bought mine used and was able to get tower in place without a issue or strap. This isn't hard stuff just put some leverage too it.
 
Yep, 4x2 is IFS (Independent Front Suspension) with rack and pinion steering. :)

On a 4x2, the old shock comes out from the bottom and new shock goes in the same way. On mine I wasn't able to cut the retaining strip once the shock was installed; therefore, I cut the strip before installing, raised the front high enough to feed the expanded shock up through the coil springs from the bottom and attached the top nut to hold the shock in place. (The top nut and locking nut are accessed by reaching over the top of the front wheel/tire). Since the shock was expanded, I used a bottle jack to compress the shock enough to install the nuts on the bottom studs.
No gas wrench necessary. :-laf

Bill


OK, glad to know I don't have to remove the tower. I honestly don't know if I got a jack that will get the truck high enough but I got plenty of bottle jacks to compress shock.

What prevented you from cutting the strap AFTER install?

Noticed you are in Mt. Pleasant. I live in Longview.
 
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