Another brake pad question

[navyjoe]

I have an 06 DRW, 2x4, Auto, Factory Exhaust Brake with 76 K on it.

I just inspected my front pads and still have 4mm on the thinnest pad. Since I not towing now and only drive the truck about 3K or 4K miles a year I feel it ok to wait until spring to change the pads.

I'm wondering about the rear pads. I towed my camper and 5th wheel for about 15K of the 76. I would think the rear pads would show less wear than the front wouldn't they? Can you check the rear pads by simply removing both tires? I've heard a lot of tails about rear wheels on a dully being a real hassle.

One more question on the 06 calipers. Can you still compress them using a "C" clamp. I've heard on some newer vehicles you need a special rig ????

 

[seafish]

The oem front brake pads on my 2005 truck with manual transmission lasted almost 100k. The front rotors were still true and had enough meat left to go another 100k miles with no turning required. I did simply compress the calipers pistons, after opening up the bleed screw on the caliper, as I did not want all the dirty fluid going back toward the master cylinder. Then I used a motive power brake bleeder to completely flush the brake system except for ABS as I had no way to activate it. I DID do a few "panic stops" after bleeding to flush the new fluid into the ABS actuator. The rear pads were still good to go on my SRW.

 

[Bob4x4]

You should be able to see the rear inner pads from the backside without pulling the wheels off

 

[navyjoe]

Thanks Seafish. Good info on Flushing. When I do this I'm going to bleed the whole system. Might be even better to bleed first then do the pads.

The oem front brake pads on my 2005 truck with manual transmission lasted almost 100k. The front rotors were still true and had enough meat left to go another 100k miles with no turning required. I did simply compress the calipers pistons, after opening up the bleed screw on the caliper, as I did not want all the dirty fluid going back toward the master cylinder. Then I used a motive power brake bleeder to completely flush the brake system except for ABS as I had no way to activate it. I DID do a few "panic stops" after bleeding to flush the new fluid into the ABS actuator. The rear pads were still good to go on my SRW.

 

[navyjoe]

Must admit I did not try that, but I would like to see both sides too. On the front pads the inside was almost 1/4 inch thick where as the outer only about 1/8 inch (~4mm). I will look though that will give me an idea.

You should be able to see the rear inner pads from the backside without pulling the wheels off

 

[Wayne M.]

If you're physical and able, it's a good idea to bust the wheels loose periodically. There's nothing like a frozen wheel on the side of a highway- God forbid. This way you're able to do a thorough pad inspection.
I don't know you're local seasonal conditions, but here in the rust belt, it's also good to check the caliper pins/ sleeves- for sticking.

Our Rams were blessed with an excellent brake system. That was one of the first qualities I observed way back when.

 

[6speed]

You only got 76K out of your brakes/ I am at 240k and still have the OEM pads front and rear. But probably I don't do 1000 miles a year in town driving. PacBrake used 100% of the time. And I have owned the truck since new

 

[navyjoe]

I live in the Tennessee mountains and my truck has never been used when the salt was on the road since I have 2 cars. But I know what you are talking about. My factory tires lasted around 60K miles. When I took it in to have new tires those poor guys worked for 30 minutes to get them off. They pounded and beat those old tires to death. I actually felt sorry for them!!! I now rotate those rear tires along with the spare (bought a set of 5 for the back) . That and that copper anti-seize compound on the threads and hub make life a lot easier.

If you're physical and able, it's a good idea to bust the wheels loose periodically. There's nothing like a frozen wheel on the side of a highway- God forbid. This way you're able to do a thorough pad inspection.
I don't know you're local seasonal conditions, but here in the rust belt, it's also good to check the caliper pins/ sleeves- for sticking.

Our Rams were blessed with an excellent brake system. That was one of the first qualities I observed way back when.

 

[navyjoe]

Good grief, I do believe you have set a record!! I still have the original batteries though. Going on 10 years and both are still strong.

You only got 76K out of your brakes/ I am at 240k and still have the OEM pads front and rear. But probably I don't do 1000 miles a year in town driving. PacBrake used 100% of the time. And I have owned the truck since new

 

[petersonj]

I am at 240k and still have the OEM pads front and rear. But probably I don't do 1000 miles a year in town driving. PacBrake used 100% of the time. And I have owned the truck since new

I have had similar results. I changed front pads at 215,000 miles as a maintenance procedure (the pads could have easily gone anther 50,000 miles). Mine truck has a manual 6 speed and an exhaust brake that is used all of the time. I am also the original owner.

- John

 

[navyjoe]

You guys must have found a way to drive uphill all the time :-laf.
That is absolutely amazing!!!!

 

[Wayne M.]

These trucks are capable of putting down amazing numbers. Many of us 04.5 owners got 10 years on our batts, and I have a friend who got 125k plus out of his BFG tires. And I remind myself all the time that I'm on my original headlamps and amber bulbs in front which I use every single day I drive it!
Navyjoe, some people don't like to use anti seize on wheels and wheel studs, but I do.

 

[seafish]

Well, since I got 100k out of my oem pads with the manual transmission and you guys are getting 200k plus with the addition of the EB, then I'll venture a rough guess that using the manual transmission to downshift and slow the truck is worth 100k on the brakes and the EB is worth another 100k….can;t wait to get the VGT turbo installed so that I can have an EB!!!

 

[6speed]

Oh An I got 150K out of a set Michelins. At the time I was towing maybe 3500-4500 lbs. But rotated every 5K miles adjusted air pressure continuously. But let me throw this into the mix. It was 3500 SRW up until I bought my trailer when I converted it to a dually, it was the best mod I made to the truck. In the beginning I didn't think I would need a dually but when I bought my 46' G-Neck, I had more weight on the rear than the tires were rated for. I am at 85K on the rear tires and maybe have another 25K or so left in them. I don't rotate any more for the simple reason I have after market wheels that don't allow moving the rims to other positions.

 

[Regcabguy]

I've had 2000# on my back for 68k,285's and the front brakes are 1/3 used. The manual and 70% freeway/level highway use sure helps.
Coming out of a 2500 auto 2nd gen these brakes are amazing. Like Wayne M. it's something I noticed immediately upon test driving a 3rd gen.

 

[navyjoe]

I just put Michelins on the front after about 65K on the factory tires. I've always had good results with Michelins in the past. If I'm lucky these tires will outlast me!

Oh An I got 150K out of a set Michelins. At the time I was towing maybe 3500-4500 lbs. But rotated every 5K miles adjusted air pressure continuously. But let me throw this into the mix. It was 3500 SRW up until I bought my trailer when I converted it to a dually, it was the best mod I made to the truck. In the beginning I didn't think I would need a dually but when I bought my 46' G-Neck, I had more weight on the rear than the tires were rated for. I am at 85K on the rear tires and maybe have another 25K or so left in them. I don't rotate any more for the simple reason I have after market wheels that don't allow moving the rims to other positions.

 

[Motorhead]

A heads up on rear brakes and calipers.... Since the rears last so long and wear so slowly, the calipers can get sticky and the sliders too. I still have the original front and rear brakes on my '07, 5.9. 6 speed stick with 80,000 miles on it. I have exercised the calipers a few times and did a brake fluid flush early this year. I have seen more than one Dodge where the rear calipers froze up due to lack of movement and exercising them.

 

[petersonj]

I have seen more than one Dodge where the rear calipers froze up due to lack of movement and exercising them.

Even with exercising them you still can have problems. At 180,000 miles and 184,000 miles my left rear caliper, then my right rear caliper failed respectively and my truck is rarely parked for more than two or three days. In each case the piston was sticking in the bore. The sliders were fine and the rear pads had worn evenly. It appeared that each caliper had debris jammed between the dust seal and the piston. I replaced only the calipers and everything is still good at 244,000 miles.

At 215,000 miles I replaced front brake pads, purged the hydraulic system, but I still used the same calipers.

I think you make a good point that regular inspection is prudent as there are many conditions that could cause brake problems, whether a vehicle is driven a lot or is parked for long periods of time.

- John

 

[navyjoe]

You and Motorhead have excellent points. What is you procedure for exercising them. I sure replacing the fluid would be the first step but what then other than using a c-clamp to compress then exercising the brake pedal to put them back. (Of course if you're doing that might as well replace the pads??)1

Even with exercising them you still can have problems. At 180,000 miles and 184,000 miles my left rear caliper, then my right rear caliper failed respectively and my truck is rarely parked for more than two or three days. In each case the piston was sticking in the bore. The sliders were fine and the rear pads had worn evenly. It appeared that each caliper had debris jammed between the dust seal and the piston. I replaced only the calipers and everything is still good at 244,000 miles.

At 215,000 miles I replaced front brake pads, purged the hydraulic system, but I still used the same calipers.

I think you make a good point that regular inspection is prudent as there are many conditions that could cause brake problems, whether a vehicle is driven a lot or is parked for long periods of time.

- John

 

[Motorhead]

My procedure is when doing a fluid change, I extend and retract the pistons a few times unless they move real easy. I have also removed the wheels one at a time and retracted the pistons then pushed them back with the brake pedal. One thing I do also is to not push the brake pedal any further than the pedal would normally travel while braking. This prevents pushing the master cylinder piston cups into a possible rough area in the master cylinder.