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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axel Swap

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Hi guys, does anybody know if u can swap 3500 2nd gen. 4x4 dually axels on a 2500 2nd gen. 4x4 HD truck. I was thinking of purchasing the adapters that convert the 2500 axles to use dually rims. I came across a dually truck that someone is selling for parts. Do all 2nd gen. HD trucks have similar suspensions that can be swapped easily or are some years better candidates than others? My truck is a 2000 DIESEL 4X4 2500. The other truck looks like a 97 but not sure. I have to stop when the owners around to get more info. I wanted to convert to give me better control when towing a 24' trailer. I was planning to rebuild my existing axels anyway the truck has 200,000 miles on it. Is this overkill or should I stick with the adapter conversion? Thanks for any help or insight on this swap
 
I believe that the duelly axles are longer so you wouldn't need adapters for the duelly wheels. A tape measure will tell you for sure if they are an easy bolt in, I believe they are.
 
I would do the axle swap. Is your 2500 auto or standard? If auto, it will have a D-70, if standard, it will have a D-80. The '97 3500 will be a D-80 with bigger brakes than the 2500. If you have a D-70 now, you will need to shorten the drive shaft some for the D-80, the rest should fit. Be sure and get the factory dually spacers off the front of the '97. You will need to verify axle gear ratios from the donor truck so it matches your front axle.

Nick
 
My truck is an auto with the D70. So nick your saying I don't have to swap the front axel just the spacers? Is the axel on the 3500 a D60 also?
 
Yes, they both have D-60 front axles. There may be some minor differences, such as ABS? Also, your 2500 might have larger axle tubes. I think the '97 will have 3 1/8" tube and your 2000 model will be 3.5"...not positive but I think so.

Nick
 
It has no bed. I think it had a utility bed that was transferred to another truck. Im working on changing my p/u bed to a CM flatbed. If I do this axle swap I be able to go with a wider bed which will give me more room.
 
It has no bed. I think it had a utility bed that was transferred to another truck.

Okay, make sure you use a tape and measure everything so there are no surprises. The cab/chassis uses a narrower frame and rear axle than the pickup, you might run into fitment issues.

Nick
 
I talked to the owner and the truck is a 95 with a 360cid gas engine. It also had a dump bed on it originally. So I will b sure to take some measurements. Thanks for all ur info nick
 
The front axle on that gasser should be a D44 and the rear should be a D60. Confirm this yourself, but I think you'll want to keep looking for diesel axles, or possibly V10.
 
Really a D44 on a one ton truck? The front axle looks like mine and the rear pumpkin is bigger than mine. Can I run the vin through my local dealer to find that info on the diffs?
 
All 2nd gen. '94-'02 3500 pickups or cab chassis used the D-60/D80 combo, regardless of engine or transmission. The cab chassis should have the industry standard 34" frame, however Dodge did some goofy stuff on the 2nd gen. so it might not be. I seem to recall up-fitters having fitment issues with industry standard, aftermarket beds. The pickup version will be 37.5" wide, this is where you might run into fitment issues. If the cab chassis has the 37.5" frame then you should be okay.

Nick
 
Nick, you r a wealth of information on this axle swap. Im going to apply eveything you told me before go forward on purchasing these axles. Ill let u lnow how it works out. Thanks all for your info
 
Around 2000 they went to rear disk brakes. If you have a disk rear, I would not downgrade to drums. I would find a disk brake rear regardless.
 
My truck already has rear drum brakes so no loss there. What my truck does have though is (depending on the amount of weight that's in the truck)a mechanism/ actuator that distributes more braking power to the rear wheels. Mine is really rusted and I don't think its doing its job. The dealer wants over six hundred dollars for this part and I'm not sure its that important. The 3500 axle I'm looking to buy does not have it. Has anyone by passed this part and just split the brake lines at the frame rail to go to each wheel and get rid of the actuator all together? Thank for any info
 
I would just plumb the lines the same as the '97. It will have 13"x3.5" brakes v/s your 12.13"x3.5" so slightly larger. If you need/want more power you can upgrade to a larger wheel cylinder. The '94-'99 2500 used 13"x2.5" so there were a lot of complaints with these trucks. The rear disk started in '01.5 so only used for 1.5 years, they are hard to find.

Nick
 
Hey Nick I was finally able to get under the Dodge 3500 (Its a 95 not a 97 as I thought) and take some measurements on the D80 and everything looks good. Don't know if it has a posi or not but I would like to have one installed beings I'm going to redo all the bearings and seals. Any suggestions on a good one for a towing application? There are kits available to by pass the actuator which I'm going to do. Thanks for any feed back
 
The power lock limited slip differentials that came in the Dana 80s of the time are very good. The True Tracs are also very good and do not use clutches. I swapped my Power Loc out for an ARB locker. If you decide to go the Power Loc route (it my already have one) and cannot find one local, I have one in my garage.

Btw, I got rid of my height adjusting proportioning valve, because it works against the air bags. The rear will lock up before the fronts when empty. Loaded, it's great.
 
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