Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Problem replacing pusher pump...

[wlowe]

Recently my fuel pressure has been dipping down to 8 psi from the 14 psi that I have set with a fuel pressure regulator. I decided to replace the carter pusher pump mounted on the frame. I forgot that when I initialy installed the pump I let the tank draw down to about 1/4 tank, so when I cut the rubber hose to replace the pump the fuel from the tank kept running with no sign of stopping. I knew that the tank was almost full so I clamped off the hose with some vice grips and got some fuel cans to catch the fuel. It quit syphoning at about 3/8 of a tank. I replaced the pump but still getting dipping pressure so the OEM pump is next.

Anyway, after I finished installing the pusher pump I did a search here on the TDR and found a few suggestions to apply air pressure to stop the syphoning by blowing air into the fuel line. That sounds like a messy procedure but probably will work. Recently I was thinking about this problem trying to decide what I would do if I was stranded on the road with a full tank of fuel and needing to replace the pump. One possible solution would be to disconnect the fuel line from the top of the tank, breaking the syphon effect.

So my question is, how hard is it to disconnect the fitting and reattach it without dropping the tank.

Thanks for the help.
Bill

 

[SAndreasen]

On my flat bed it's easy to disconnect the hose but on a regular bed I don't know how hard it would be

 

[VolsFan]

I had to put a draw straw on my old ride as the metal fuel line 90s coming out of the top of the tank corroded-I lifted the bed of the truck in my shop. On your 01.5 they are plastic. As far as simply removing the fuel line that may be doable. I accessed the rollover valve, pulled it out and cleaned it with the tank in place, bed on. Probably need a pair of needle nose pliers, think it's spring clamps holding them. Have you considered an inline ball valve, if you have a big line kit that is. Not trying to be critical but you'd be wise to separate yourself from the carter pump so you won't have to do this again for a long time.

 

[jkalchik]

VolsFan has it right. I put a big line kit with a Draw Straw on my '99 when I relo'ed the Carter pump down to the tank. It really didn't help the Carter at all. I put a FASS DDRP in place of the Carter (a ball valve would have helped a LOT, I had a lot of diesel coming siphoning down when I was making the connections.) The DDRP has lasted 6 years, I was getting less than a year out of the Carters. ANYTHING besides the crummy Carter would be an improvement.

If you have a shop crane, even a simple little boom crane, it's probably easier to lift the bed off (disconnect the tail lights, the ground strap at the front, fuel inlet, and drop the spare tire,) than it is to fiddle around with the fuel tank. Then again..... a transmission jack with a little cribbing might work pretty well to drop the tank.

 

[wlowe]

I had to put a draw straw on my old ride as the metal fuel line 90s coming out of the top of the tank corroded-I lifted the bed of the truck in my shop. On your 01.5 they are plastic. As far as simply removing the fuel line that may be doable. I accessed the rollover valve, pulled it out and cleaned it with the tank in place, bed on. Probably need a pair of needle nose pliers, think it's spring clamps holding them. Have you considered an inline ball valve, if you have a big line kit that is. Not trying to be critical but you'd be wise to separate yourself from the carter pump so you won't have to do this again for a long time.

Yes, I considered installing a shutoff valve when I originally installed the pusher pump but I was limited for space between the metal fuel line and the input side of the pusher pump. I'm considering re-engineering the intake plumbing for the pusher to make more room for the shutoff.

I probably will replace the carter with something better at some point, but right now I just want to get it back on the road.

 

[wlowe]

VolsFan has it right. I put a big line kit with a Draw Straw on my '99 when I relo'ed the Carter pump down to the tank. It really didn't help the Carter at all. I put a FASS DDRP in place of the Carter (a ball valve would have helped a LOT, I had a lot of diesel coming siphoning down when I was making the connections.) The DDRP has lasted 6 years, I was getting less than a year out of the Carters. ANYTHING besides the crummy Carter would be an improvement.

If you have a shop crane, even a simple little boom crane, it's probably easier to lift the bed off (disconnect the tail lights, the ground strap at the front, fuel inlet, and drop the spare tire,) than it is to fiddle around with the fuel tank. Then again..... a transmission jack with a little cribbing might work pretty well to drop the tank.

My main concern is relacing the pump along side the road somewhere, kind of hard to drop the tank or raise the bed. If I was going to work on the fittings at home I would drop the tank. At one time I was considering cutting an access hole in the floor of the bed and modify the removed piece to bolt back on, but it looks like there is a large brace right above the fuel module which would probably weaken the bed in that area if it was cut.

Maybe when the weather warms up I will crawl under the truck and see how much space I have to reach up there and feel the disconnects, then it's just a matter of how easy it is to remove/install the fittings.

Thanks for the help.

 

[jkalchik]

When I put the DDRP on, I did have the luxury of a smooth concrete floor in the shop back on the farm where I grew up. Not heated, and done between Christmas & New Year's. I did spill a fair amount of diesel, but it really wasn't all that bad. I wouldn't consider cutting a hole in the bed, even if there wasn't a brace in the way. I've hoisted the short box off my '99 by myself & got it back in place without dinging the bed or the cab (yes, it took a bit of finagling.) I do suggest getting rid of the Carter on your terms & not its. I'd offer a hand, but there's most of a country between us.

 

[wlowe]

When I put the DDRP on, I did have the luxury of a smooth concrete floor in the shop back on the farm where I grew up. Not heated, and done between Christmas & New Year's. I did spill a fair amount of diesel, but it really wasn't all that bad. I wouldn't consider cutting a hole in the bed, even if there wasn't a brace in the way. I've hoisted the short box off my '99 by myself & got it back in place without dinging the bed or the cab (yes, it took a bit of finagling.) I do suggest getting rid of the Carter on your terms & not its. I'd offer a hand, but there's most of a country between us.

I don't envy you having to work on your truck in Minnesota in the middle of winter. I lived in Fairbanks, Alaska for twelve years and don't miss any of that cold weather.

 

[jkalchik]

Well..... Michigan, less than 10 miles from Lake Michigan, not Minnesota, but almost identical latitude. Being downwind of Lake Michigan helps a lot, 20 degrees warmer. Agred, not the most pleasant conditions, it was also the last time I saw Dad, we buried him 3 months later.

 

[SAndreasen]

My ddrp is located in the stock location and it has been there since before I bought the truck no problems with it at all I like the stock location for me it's easy to get to and change if necessary

 

[dblake]

I guess I over engineered my fuel delivery system. After 2 lift pumps and a failed vp-44 I installed a big straw kit with big rubber lines and relocated my stock lift pump to the frame rail. When I ran out of fuel twice with 1/4 tank I put in a fuel sump on the bottom of my tank and installed a double filtered Fass. I left my modified stock pusher pump and filter in place as a backup fuel delivery in case my Fass ever fails. All I have to do is reconfigure my fuel supply to the stock system on the side of the road, a 5 minute job and I'm back in business.

 

[wlowe]

I guess I over engineered my fuel delivery system. After 2 lift pumps and a failed vp-44 I installed a big straw kit with big rubber lines and relocated my stock lift pump to the frame rail. When I ran out of fuel twice with 1/4 tank I put in a fuel sump on the bottom of my tank and installed a double filtered Fass. I left my modified stock pusher pump and filter in place as a backup fuel delivery in case my Fass ever fails. All I have to do is reconfigure my fuel supply to the stock system on the side of the road, a 5 minute job and I'm back in business.

Have any pictures of your setup. I'm interested in seeing how you installed and routed your fuel lines with two pumps installed, the pusher and the Fass.

 

[dblake]

Sorry. I don't have any pictures. My rig is in storage on the west coast and we are at our winter home in Puerto Rico. The whole setup is pretty easy. You can get all the hoses and fittings from Geno's and Vulcan enterprises. The only hard part was dropping my tank to install the fuel sump. They now make one with a split ring so you don't have to drop the tank. I like having the sump since I now have an easy way to drain the tank if I get a bad batch of fuel. I'm currently running diesel through my stock filter bowl as well to retain my water in fuel sensor but I'm getting ready to change that now that BD diesel has a sensor that goes on the bottom of the fuel water separator on the Fass. Hope this helps.

 

[gtwitch]

I was told that you did not have to totally remove/lift off the bed so I tried it and it is do able. You can take all but the rear bolts holding the bed to the frame and just loosen the rear bolts and tip the bed up from the front after taking the filler/vent loose and any wiring, tip up and crib and you can stand there and pull the tank unit out and service or put in a draw straw or large line kit. Not a lot of work involved here!!

gtwitch in wyoming

 

[wlowe]

I was told that you did not have to totally remove/lift off the bed so I tried it and it is do able. You can take all but the rear bolts holding the bed to the frame and just loosen the rear bolts and tip the bed up from the front after taking the filler/vent loose and any wiring, tip up and crib and you can stand there and pull the tank unit out and service or put in a draw straw or large line kit. Not a lot of work involved here!!

gtwitch in wyoming

Thanks for this info, I'll remember this when it's time to access the tank.