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HELP, over GVWR BY 400 lbs.

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What's NORMAL and HOT in a differential temperature?

Brake pads

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A 295/70/18 is a 34" tire, too tall. Have to get back to a 60 or 65 profile to get the correct height.
 
Wow that's a lot of front axle weight! Even for a MC truck. I am not sure it's even possible to add 1,700 lbs to the front axle (based on curb weight)
From what I can find....the curb weight is 8,174 lbs.....5,003 lbs front axle, 3,171 lbs rear axle. He's only 697 lbs away from the front weight based on his scale ticket (plus any "extras" (hitch, etc.)
Remember someone said the wheels are only rated to 3500 each. You maybe looking at 19.5" rims and tires or a dually. Snoking
I though DFB had the 20" tires & wheels....they're rated at 3,640 lbs each (7,280 total for rear axle).

***EDIT***

Just saw his truck in the Classifieds and it looks like he does indeed have the 18" tires & wheels.
 
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He's only 697 lbs away from the front weight based on his scale ticket (plus any "extras" (hitch, etc.)


Look at the front axle weights I posted. 5th wheels hardly charge the front axle weights. He said he was not on the scale correctly with his rear axle! SNOKING
 
Here's my Mega Cab. This is weight with me in it AFTER my 20" stretch, with my 260lb butt in the drivers seat. Not sure what the stretch does to the steer weight.

Screenshot 2016-04-16 22.19.17.png


Screenshot 2016-04-16 22.19.17.png
 
Yes he needs to get weighed PROPERLY. NO way he should be 240# heavier than I am on the front axle towing a 5er.

Like was pointed out, he his the truck in the classifieds trying to trade for a duallie. With a dry pin weight of 2905 he is beyond a stock 3500 SRW capacity. I am studying the subject in detail while considering a larger trailer.

SNOKING
 
From what I can find....the curb weight is 8,174 lbs.....5,003 lbs front axle, 3,171 lbs rear axle. He's only 697 lbs away from the front weight based on his scale ticket (plus any "extras" (hitch, etc.)

That's a LOT of weight to add to a front axle. Aside from anything placed forward of the front axle the weight is split between the rear and front. Even 300lbs in the front seats puts 108lbs on the rear axle. 300lbs in the rear seat puts 183lbs on the rear axle.

It's not easy to add 700 lbs to the front axle without a decent amount of weight over or in front of the front axle.


5,000 lbs of pin weight 4" in front of the rear axle would only add 125lbs to the front axle.
 
He omitted in an earlier post that his drive axle was part way on the front scale!!! SNOKING

Yes he did. My comment was in response to "only 697". I was explaining how difficult it is to add that much weight to the front axle, which was a general comment and not related to dfb's weight ticket.
 
"Let me know. Msrp on mine was 69670.4 months and 4000 miles later dealer wants to give me 39000 in trade."

That is what AutoNation gave me in trade for my 11HO Dually on this truck. I am just YAPPIN doubt I will sell this one.
 
I contacted the place in Bountiful Utah to see the cost of making my truck a Long bed mega cab dually. Came in at 8100 plus tax... The thing is, according to the gentleman on the phone, It WILL NOT increase my ratings.....What???? A long bed Dually will keep my present rating as is... Great...... I think what I will try is to remove some items, drain the water heater and put a higher rated tire on... maybe take on of those 'tote tanks' and attach it underneath at the very rear... 50 gallons out to remove some weight off the pin... However, the distance from the rear of the rv to the center between the two axles is 13 feet. The distance from there to the pin is about 25 feet...So it will take alot more weight to the rear to take a little off the front..... oh well...
 
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I contacted the place in Bountiful Utah to see the cost of making my truck a Long bed mega cab dually. Came in at 8100 plus tax... The thing is, according to the gentleman on the phone, It WILL NOT increase my ratings.....What???? A long bed Dually will keep my present rating as is... Great...... I think what I will try is to remove some items, drain the water heater and put a higher rated tire on... maybe take on of those 'tote tanks' and attach it underneath at the very rear... 50 gallons out to remove some weight off the pin... However, the distance from the rear of the rv to the center between the two axles is 13 feet. The distance from there to the pin is about 25 feet...So it will take alot more weight to the rear to take a little off the front..... oh well...

Which means they will not re-certify the weight rates and slab a new placard on it. If it was me I would slap 19.5 rims and tires on it and bag it. Then go camping. Not sure who has wheels now a days. John may be along to tell us! But finding them appears to be a problem.

SNOKING
 
It is legal to up ratings, and you can do it yourself after the mod. Give it a higher RAWR and GVWR if you want to. I replacarded mine, however the placard isn't my legal limit. My tires and registration are. Going over 14,000 on the GVWR might cause different restrictions with going to a Class IV vehicle.

As for wheels Vision Type 81's are readily available from multiple places. They are rated for 4500lbs each and match a 245/70R19.5 in LRG quite nicely.

The rev/mile is very similar to the OEM 18's.
 
It is legal to up ratings, and you can do it yourself after the mod. Give it a higher RAWR and GVWR if you want to. I replacarded mine, however the placard isn't my legal limit. My tires and registration are. Going over 14,000 on the GVWR might cause different restrictions with going to a Class IV vehicle.

As for wheels Vision Type 81's are readily available from multiple places. They are rated for 4500lbs each and match a 245/70R19.5 in LRG quite nicely.

The rev/mile is very similar to the OEM 18's.

John, on 2013-16 3500's will these wheels stick out further in the wheel wells. Who makes the best AS tire for them? SNOKING
 
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