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Anyone rotate there aluminum dualie wheels?

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I found the inner wheel is steel and the inside of the front wheel and the opposite side of the outside dual wheels do not have a bright finish. I was getting some weird tire wear on the front tires so I moved them back on the outside. My paperwork says aluminum wheels and I assumed that would be all 6.:confused:
 
My paperwork says aluminum wheels and I assumed that would be all 6.

Unfortunately, we don't get 6 aluminum wheels on our trucks.
I'm pretty sure all 3 brands only give 4 aluminum and steel inner wheels

I found the inner wheel is steel and the inside of the front wheel and the opposite side of the outside dual wheels do not have a bright finish. I was getting some weird tire wear on the front tires so I moved them back on the outside.

I pay a tire shop to break down and re-install my tires when I rotate on my dually.
 
I rotate every 7,500 miles. RR to front then LR to front, then repeat. I get exceptionally even tire wear, within 1/32.
 
What about the Owners Guide recommendations. My owners guide has a chart for rotating 6 tires and one for rotating 7 tires. I'm sure trucks with aluminum wheels have a recommendation on their owners guide as well.
 
The only economical way to rotate tires on a DRW truck with Alcoa's, and TPIS, is to swap the LF to RF and vice versa. (per the owner's manual)

One can also dismount four, remount four, and balance four....but that's going to cost a few dollars.
 
What about the Owners Guide recommendations. My owners guide has a chart for rotating 6 tires and one for rotating 7 tires. I'm sure trucks with aluminum wheels have a recommendation on their owners guide as well.

My experience with the owners manual is .... it is very general. Covers all options. Not option specific. And doesn't care if your shiny side of the wheel shows outward
 
I rotate mine every 5500 miles. On my Y2K dually, I rotated all 7 in the sequence listed in the owners manual and over the 11 years I got over 70K miles on a set. They were all steel though. On the 2011 with alcoas, I rotate front side to side and rear as well, shiny side out. The original Generals were pure junk and started tread separation at 7,000 miles, so I had them replaced with Michelins. Same rotation sequence and with 35,000, no issues. Now, when I had the Michelins put on, I went to six tire sealers and told them that I am very particular and wanted NO DAMAGE to my wheels. One shop agreed and the owner said that he would do the work himself. As luck would have it, their NO TOUCH tire machine gouged a front wheel. They bought a new one from Ram, ($675.) and replaced it with no grief. If one was to dismount and remount tires on these wheels for each rotation cycle, there will be damage sooner or later, that's a fact. I believe that a lot of the tire wear and alignment issues are with the 4X4 trucks, at least that's the truck in most of the posts on these issues. Anyway, that's my take on this....

Larry
 
I pay a tire shop to break down and re-install my tires when I rotate on my dually.[/QUOTE]

Does this cost $500- $600 to rotate your tires? I know in any big city it's gonna cost to do this.

Do you get a small town discount?
 
With Alcoa's it's an absolute waste of money to do anything but breakdown the front tires from the wheels and move front tires side to side with the same rotation leaving the wheels at the same location. that way the inside goes on the outside. Get the front end aligned to 1/32" toe and leave the rears alone.

MS2's in pics with 40K rotating the fronts side to side @ 15K.

IMG_2033.jpg
IMG_2035.jpg


IMG_2033.jpg


IMG_2035.jpg
 
The more the Alcoa's are handled the chances increase for damage. I do a walk around with tire manager before works begins. As shown it pics above fronts only need to be rotated side to side with same rotation.
 
I only rotated my fronts side to side and my rear duals are wearing perfect without rotation. At 25k miles on mine and the rear 4 are pretty identical wear-wise, and all look like they'll go another 25k. Front's are about ready to be replaced though. Would have gone another 10k if I didn't keep them under-inflated for half their miles.
 
"Would have gone another 10k if I didn't keep them under-inflated for half their miles."

I assume you are running 80 now? Did you get your toe set?
 
"Would have gone another 10k if I didn't keep them under-inflated for half their miles."

I assume you are running 80 now? Did you get your toe set?

Yup, I'm at 80 now. I didn't adjust the toe. I'm fine swapping a bit of tire loss for steering feel. I'd be concerned I'd lose a bit of the rock solid stability I see at speed to mess with it.
 
I had some unusual wear on the insides of each of the front tires. Dealer aligned (had 13,000 miles on od) for free and flashed with about 4 upgrades. I put fronts on outside of duals on same side and I am putting up with unpolished wheels for now. Looking for 2 polished wheels from junk yards here in Fl.
 
Yup, I'm at 80 now. I didn't adjust the toe. I'm fine swapping a bit of tire loss for steering feel. I'd be concerned I'd lose a bit of the rock solid stability I see at speed to mess with it.

In my 11 Dually I went with the 1/32 toe and noticed no difference in tracking. I need to get my 15 done but I am a long ways from the guy I trust!
 
In my 11 Dually I went with the 1/32 toe and noticed no difference in tracking. I need to get my 15 done but I am a long ways from the guy I trust!

Jack it up. Spin each wheel. Touch the spinning tire tread with chalk so the line goes all the way around each tire. Set the truck down on the ground to load up the suspension, and measure front and back, do some subtraction and make the change.

Okay, that's accurate enough for my offroad vehicles. May not be precise enough for your $70k road vehicle. :D
 
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