Here I am

How do I "Unlock" more power on 2016 Ram 6.7 with a manual transmission

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

3rd Radio

Oil Sample Results and Dealer questions.

Status
Not open for further replies.
This is my first thread and post as I'm new to the site, new to the 6.7 and I'm not quite sure what to type in the search box to see if this has been discussed. I just brought home a 2016 3500 4dr 4wd with a manual transmission. I know the factory derated the power with the manual transmission but I know there has to be a way to "Unlock" the power that could be there. Also, any idea why the factory exhaust brake when set on "Full Brake" tends to stay on even when the clutch pedal is pressed in just a bit like when beginning to shift? I drive big trucks with jakes and there are switches on the accelerator and clutch pedal to prevent this
 
Most on this forum that have bought these newer electrically controlled pickup have decided to keep the stock. I don't know of too many members here that have juiced up yet. On forum B, lot's have decided to void their trucks warranty and completely delete the entire exhaust system, along with the EGR etc etc, and add a tuner from EFI Live or similar to fool the computer to think that all the parts are in place. I'd advise against this, unless you have really deep pockets and can pay for repairs out of pocket.
 
This is my first thread and post as I'm new to the site, new to the 6.7 and I'm not quite sure what to type in the search box to see if this has been discussed. I just brought home a 2016 3500 4dr 4wd with a manual transmission. I know the factory derated the power with the manual transmission but I know there has to be a way to "Unlock" the power that could be there. Also, any idea why the factory exhaust brake when set on "Full Brake" tends to stay on even when the clutch pedal is pressed in just a bit like when beginning to shift? I drive big trucks with jakes and there are switches on the accelerator and clutch pedal to prevent this

Yes. The EB stays on just a hair after the clutch engages. It pretty much stays on until the engine hits idle....... or a hair after the clutch is pushed in...... whichever comes first.

Fill in your signature and post a picture of your new ride at your convenience.

Don't ask these questions on this forum or someone on here will criticise your decision to buy a G56. And insult you in the process.

Consensus on this forum is that everyone should buy the Aisin.

If looking for mods to improve towing, you might start with a new clutch plate and switch out the Dual Mass Flywheel for a solid, single disk.

I still have a stock powertrain and have torque to spare for what I pull.
 
Last edited:
I will never insult anyone with a G56. It's a good transmission.
 
Sticks are cool, i miss mine sometimes.... A tuner would give you a bit more grunt w/out you needing to yank the EPA stuff. Do your homework well. You are at less then max hp [Aisin}; that would bug me also!
By the way,,... Welcome!!
 
Sticks are cool, i miss mine sometimes.... A tuner would give you a bit more grunt w/out you needing to yank the EPA stuff. Do your homework well. You are at less then max hp [Aisin}; that would bug me also!
By the way,,... Welcome!!

Well, since max torque only occurs at a narrow band of rpm's in 3rd/4th gear after TC lockup, the max HP/torque numbers for both automatics are not really that much of an advantage. A small advantage. But nothing to get bothered about. In my opinion. The manuals have been pulling loads for many years successfully.
 
I had two trucks with the G56 never had any issues, and I towed heavy with them. As for more power, use the truck an see if you really need it. The factory has the tourque limit set to protect the clutch an transmission. I never felt short on ability to pull or keep up or pass when towing.
 
Hi welcome to the forum.

Now I have an 20808 that has been modified to eliminate several early issues with the emission system. Been this way for almost 7 years with no problems and no idiot lights coming on. Now would I delete a 2016 NO. They finial have the emission and fuel mileage problems solved with the the newer trucks that were introduced around 2013.5 and up. This is just my $0.02.
Jim
 
Welcome aboard!!!

Have you towed with it yet? Try using the truck for a while towing and not. Be advised adding a tuner or anything that alters the trucks engine output will put you in the "I am my own warranty station" category.
 
I have towed a little with it and the power is nice BUT I feel like with this truck the computer is driving and not me. RPMs stay up between gears because of electronic accelerator pedal, takes a few seconds once you mash the pedal down for the truck to wake up and start really moving. It only has 1100 miles so I know it's a ways to break it in but I read somewhere that gorilla(?) will take your factory computer and turn it up to the Aisin output level. I've never owned a truck with an automatic, I have driven plenty and I don't consider them real trucks but it's just my opinion. Real trucks like real hot rods have 3 pedals!
 
I have towed a little with it and the power is nice BUT I feel like with this truck the computer is driving and not me. RPMs stay up between gears because of electronic accelerator pedal, takes a few seconds once you mash the pedal down for the truck to wake up and start really moving. It only has 1100 miles so I know it's a ways to break it in but I read somewhere that gorilla(?) will take your factory computer and turn it up to the Aisin output level. I've never owned a truck with an automatic, I have driven plenty and I don't consider them real trucks but it's just my opinion. Real trucks like real hot rods have 3 pedals!










I recommend the BD Throttle sensitivity Booster
 
Part of the reason for the lower power rating is the clutch isn't capable of holding more power, especially while towing.

If you do end up increasing the power be sure to plan on a new clutch/flywheel.
 
Part of the reason for the lower power rating is the clutch isn't capable of holding more power, especially while towing.

If you do end up increasing the power be sure to plan on a new clutch/flywheel.
The autos are quicker and have much more torque...even in the car world.. I don't like shifting at all....
 
Part of the reason for the lower power rating is the clutch isn't capable of holding more power, especially while towing.

If you do end up increasing the power be sure to plan on a new clutch/flywheel.


What he said ^^^^.

Just about everyone here knows I'm not a fan of the G56, but I do own one. G56's run hot so you should install temp gauge, the stock clutch won't hold back any power upgrades, even if you increase the HP a little and keep emissions intact. If you go with a dual disk clutch, it turn your G56 into a noisey transmission. So if you can keep the HP under what a single disk clutch is capable of, you'll like your setup much better. Contact South Bend Clutch, they produce the best SMF and clutches for it, in my humble opinion. Back to running hot, with only 35K miles on my G56 I had to replace the browned bearing from running hot. After the rebuild, I started keeping track of the temperatures and it got over 250*, and it was just towing my light boat in 85* weather. So I fabricated a cooler setup for it, and I now can keep the temp at 180*. BTW, dump the ATF fluid in it and run a better oil, many members here will recommend their favorite, and overfill by one quart.

image.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top