Looking For Heavy Duty Lug Crimper Recommendations for DIY Battery Cables

[Crunch]

I just received the 2/0 AWG cable, military spec terminals and heavy duty lugs from McMaster-Carr to replace my battery cables. But one thing I didn't consider was the crimping. These lugs are truly heavy duty, and I don't have the tool to do it. Does anyone have any recommendations? In looking online I found an excellent article on making DIY battery cables that was written by a guy who does a lot of marine work. Here's the article if anyone is interested:

Making Your Own Battery Cables

He really likes the FTZ Industries Correct Crimp Heavy Duty Crimp Tool, and I can't blame him, but it's $180. For what it worth, he hates the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper that only costs about $54. I'm really tempted to bite the bullet and buy a tool I will love, but seldom use. But I'm also thinking I might try to find a shop that will do several double crimps at a low price and just be done with it. Along those lines I'm thinking of a shop that works on golf carts, and the obvious marine service shops. Has anyone ever made their own battery cables and been in this situation before? I'm open to all suggestions.

 

[BLNRAY]

the shop i work at we make our own hydraulic hoses,iused the hydraulic crimper to make my 2-o cables,made a really nice 360 degree crimp almost cant tell their crimped

 

[SnoKing]

I have one of these!

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

I reworked one of the small dies with a grinder to punch in the center bottom side of the terminal with the larger die on the top.

Snoking

 

[seafish]

Nothing wrong with using a hammer crimper for a few wires. Like this one--

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0

 

[SnoKing]

Nothing wrong with using a hammer crimper for a few wires. Like this one--

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0

I have one of those also, however the hydraulic one is much easier to use in a boat engine room!!!! SNOKING

 

[Bob4x4]

I have have had 2 of the hammer style crimpers,One for home and one for work.They are harder to use in tight places but for the occasional user work great.They made wiring the solar system on the Airstream a quick job using bigger than required cabling

 

[sag2]

I always solder my crimped connections for a lot of extra insurance.

 

[SnoKing]

I always solder my crimped connections for a lot of extra insurance.

As long as you crimp them first! Just soldering is not recommended, as they can overheat and melt the solder.

http://www.marinewireandcable.com/2013/11/crimping-vs-soldering-marine-cable-and.html

Snoking

 

[GCroyle]

Got any friends that are power company linemen? Those bucket trucks have ALL the crimpers you'll need. Did mine that way.

 

[richardcoxid]

It's pretty easy to make a mechanical crimper. Sorry I don't know how to make a sketch and post it so I will try to describe it. You can make these according to the size needed. All measurements can be modified as needed for your application.


Get a piece of mild steel bar about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick about 6 inches long and about 2 inches wide. Drill a hole close to one edge near one end large enough in dia. that the crimp lug will pass thru. 90 degrees on the edge on the same center line drill and tap a hole for a 1/4-20 up to about a 3/8- 16 bolt to pass thru to the large hole.
Clamp the bar in your vise, put the lug on the end of the cable, slip the lug thru the large hole. Then using a hardened hex head bolt (cap screw) screw the bolt down onto the lug, putting a beautiful dimple in the lug.


I added a second set of 6v batteries to the original set with a marine OFF, batt 1, batt 2, BOTH master switch to our RV about 10 years ago crimping every cable/lug this way.


Maybe somebody who knows how to add a sketch could post it so other folks could visualize what I tried to describe.

 

[Crunch]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Turns out that the lugs that bolt to the engine block are 1/2" lugs, and the lugs that bolt to the military spec terminals are 3/8" lugs. I had to run down the road to buy two 1/2" lugs, and while I was there I asked if they had a crimper, and they said yes. So I was able to get the necessary lugs and double crimps on the ends of both cables in one stop. That definitely saved me some time today. Got home and installed both negative cables without any significant problems. I did cut the cables a bit long because the OEM cables were barely long enough to make the connection to the battery after I replaced the terminals several years ago. I had to reroute the cables a bit, but they don't interfere with anything or touch the engine block. I'm also glad I bought the 2/0 AWG cables, which are slightly bigger than the OEM cables. The positive side will be interesting with the crossover cable/starter motor cable combination. The crossover is smaller than the cable to the starter motor, but I might do the whole thing in 2/0 AWG like the negatives. I don't think the military spec terminals for the positive side will be much different than the negative terminals, so I'll probably have to just crimp lugs to both cables and put one on each side of the terminal bolt, with the smaller wires next to one of the larger lugs. While I was under the truck this morning I checked the run for the positive cables, and it sure looks like the cable that connects to the starter motor is not going to be a fun one to remove. I'm pretty sure I'll have to drop the starter motor to do it.