Here I am

Towing Ram 3500 behind motorhome

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Things I hope the 2018 update will have:

Need help!!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.

Larry Willard

TDR MEMBER
We sold our 5er and have now bought a motorhome which is rated to tow 10000 pounds. Reading the owners manual it is stated that it is ok to flat tow in park with transfer case in neutral, but in researching on the web it also mentions that you need to put the ignition in the accessory position. I have the keyless ignition and if it has the accessory position in use after a period of time it goes back off. Does anyone know why the need to use accessory position as it doesn't appear to have a steering column/wheel lock that would necessitate the accessory position.

Is there any reason I can't tow the truck we already have?

Larry
 
Last edited:
I don't think you will like towing your 3500 on a tow bar. They are hard to backup, no brakes and a 3500 dually is heavy. A tow bar is a poor way to tow anything but a light vehicle.

Nick
 
You should not need to leave the ignition in the ACC position while being towed, unless you need to use the accessories (wipers, etc.). Not sure why your owner's manual would say that. I checked a pre-publication version of the 2013 manual, and it did not specify ignition in ACC.
 
You should not need to leave the ignition in the ACC position while being towed, unless you need to use the accessories (wipers, etc.). Not sure why your owner's manual would say that. I checked a pre-publication version of the 2013 manual, and it did not specify ignition in ACC.

Sorry,maybe I wasn't clear enough but the owners manual says to place the transfercase in neutral and trans in park .Other research indicated the need to place the ignition in the accessory position,hence my question.

Thanks, Larry
 
Larry, refer to the owners manual you have or downlod it at ramtrucks.com. Follow the instructions in the section Recreational towing. I did not see where the go button had to be in the run or accessory position when I just read throuh a manual I downloaded. Be careful if you try and reference other vehicles like a Wrangler as they are different from your truck.
 
I don't think you will like towing your 3500 on a tow bar. They are hard to backup, no brakes and a 3500 dually is heavy. A tow bar is a poor way to tow anything but a light vehicle.

Nick

I was contemplating the same idea a while back but with a Tacoma, I have to agree with NICK that backing would be hard, ill take it one step further and say that backing it would be impossible.

I went with an enclosed trailer behind our Motor Home and like the idea of not having the towed autos running gear spinning for added wear. I also have seen open flat deck trailers being towed with large trucks on them.
 
Sorry,maybe I wasn't clear enough but the owners manual says to place the transfercase in neutral and trans in park .Other research indicated the need to place the ignition in the accessory position,hence my question.

Thanks, Larry

Maybe the need for the accessory position is required for the electric shift transfer case to shift/stay in neutral?

Nick
 
Just a question here Larry, but why your Dodge behind the Motor Home? All you want is to be able to get around when you park to "camp" somewhere, right? I would think a small SUV on an open trailer would be perfect for that purpose, not a Dodge 3500. I understand you probably love your truck but to me this doesn't seem practical.

Years ago I worked at a place where we built Electric Utility trucks, bucket truck, digger derricks, etc. To deliver them we used a Ford Courier pickup with a tow bar. I can't tell you how many times we had to rebuild the front end on that truck from the towing. I understand your steering components are much more HD than the Courier, but it's also much heavier.

Just my two cents worth.
 
Maybe the need for the accessory position is required for the electric shift transfer case to shift/stay in neutral?

Nick

For an electric-shift transfer case, yes, the ignition must be in the ON/RUN position in order to shift the transfer case (to Neutral, for towing). But once the transfer case is in Neutral, you can turn the ignition OFF and the transfer case will remain in Neutral.

The "ignition in ACC" requirement is typically for vehicles with a steering column lock (where turning the ignition OFF locks the steering column).
 
Thanks for all the replies. The information regarding using accessory was found either in a towing guide printed by one of the motorhome magazines or a reference at one of the tow bar/brake manufacturers, but not sure where I saw it.

I was assuming the requirement was for a vehicle with steering column lock and was the reason for asking.

Reason for towing truck is 2 fold, I already own the truck and our car isn't flat towable, as well as I prefer to drive/ride in the truck and not a car. In the last 3 1/2 years we put 10000 miles on the car and 60000 on this truck, plus what was on our last truck. Flat towed vehicle are never able to back up, you just have to unhook if backing is necessary. When on the highway you need to plan, best as possible to only travel forward as you plan rest stops and fuel. As we travel between locations our stops are usually truck stops, rest areas and WalMart or similar places for the night. Using a trailer is a preferred way, however when you arrive at a destination parking for the trailer can become a problem along with the added weight for the truck/trailer combo.
Larry
 
I know this is not a 3500 being flat towed; but the gentleman next to us at our RV park last month pulled in with a 1500 Ram behind his Fleetwood Discovery. In the 1500 RAM he had his golf cart in the bed along with his pedal bike. I asked him in talking about his set up how it towed since my DW has always wanted a Class A (we are staying with a 5th wheel). He said he has been pulling this way for sometime between the Smokey Mountains and the Golf Shores in AL with no issues, he is a full timer. He stated that he needs the full size pick-up truck to carry all of his toys, There were several full time RV'ers flat towing their full size pick-up trucks behind their Class A motor homes that I have seen on our last trip in going to AL. I believe it can be done just extremely hard to back-up, so do not get in a situation where you need to back-up.
 
After seeing some of Larry's vehicles in person I'd have thought his biggest worry was how dirty the Ram might get as a dinghy, or the rear fenders pitted. Of curiousity, did the motorhome tow rating come from the chassis builder or (if it's different) the coach builder, and would your combo still be under GCWR for the coach?
 
After seeing some of Larry's vehicles in person I'd have thought his biggest worry was how dirty the Ram might get as a dinghy, or the rear fenders pitted. Of curiousity, did the motorhome tow rating come from the chassis builder or (if it's different) the coach builder, and would your combo still be under GCWR for the coach?
Well the dirt problem had crossed my mine, but the older I get the less it seems to bother me. Hopefully in another year we can afford a non dually truck. Yes the chassis manufacturer (Freightliner) set the tow rating,GVW and GCW, which if I keep the Ram on a diet (not carrying the generator and fifth hitch) will be OK
 
What did you buy Larry? I'm going to DRV Suites soon. Then retire (again) and join you on the road!

Winnebago Journey 36M. A Diesel pusher with 360HP Cummins. As you probably know we had been considering a DRV, but I changed my mind and went class A motorhome.
Larry
 
Wow Larry! Looks really nice! You probably won't associate with us trailer toters anymore in that upscale unit! LOL Congrats!
 
We had a 40' diesel pusher ano used the Blue Ox Tow Bar, in conjunction with the Air Force One braking system, and found it to not only be easy to hook up and use, but would highly recommend either or both to anyone considering a toad. There is no way any thing could be backed up with the described setup, that is a fact. The Ram is advertised as being flat towed, and with the exc prion of being so big, it is a viable choice for RV travel. We did not tow anything that large, but found the setup to be ideal. Just my two cents on the basic idea.
 
When I had my 03 Dodge 3500 towed several years ago the tow truck company refused to tow it with the t case in neutral, even tho the front wheels were in the air. They said they had seen too many 4x4 truck pop into gear and destroy things. I'm sure they being extra cautious but it can happen.

David
 
Winnebago Journey 36M. A Diesel pusher with 360HP Cummins. As you probably know we had been considering a DRV, but I changed my mind and went class A motorhome.
Larry
Larry, the neighbor just purchased a pusher with a 6.7 320 HP engine. He tows a Honda Fit and came back from the first trip complaining of a lack of power compared to his prior gas MH. How is the power so far on your setup? On the same note my son moved to NC with a 25' Penske truck with a 6.7 (didn't see HP rating) and he said his Toyota Tacoma pulling 24' trailer beat it up every hill in the sierras and rockies. Sounds like the truck engines somehow run better than the MH and fleet engines. Although the trucks are much lighter it sounds like something else is different between them.
 
Stan, I haven't towed anything yet and only have about 1500 miles so far, but driving through the mountains it seems to compare to the Ram towing which would closely compare in weight and wind resistance.
Larry
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top