Turbo Actuator Failure

[EHoxie]

Truck is a 2015 srw 4X4 Aisin with 41,000 miles and tows a 8000 lb trailer most of the time. Tuesday while driving my exhaust brake stopped working and I noticed under acceleration i had much lower boost pressure than normal and also reduced power. No code set. Got to my work destination Ok.
Leaving work truck was still not performing right and CEL came on after about 1 mile. Plugged in my code reader and had code P00AF "turbo actuator performance" . Called the dealer and got an appointment for Thursday morning. Took the truck in and they checked it and said it needed a PCM reflash. They reflashed it and test drove and everything was OK. I headed off to work and about 10 miles later turbo quit again. Took the truck back in this morning and left it. They called this afternoon and said it needed a new turbo actuator and with the holiday weekend they won't have it until Tuesday or Wednesday. Just wondering if anyone else has had this type of failure. I thought I had seen an article about the turbo actuator in the TDR but looked through my back issues and couldn't find it.

 

[Newsa]

Never heard of this problem with so few miles. Recommendations to keep Turbo clean (& long life) is to use the Ebrake all the time even when not towing/hauling. But it sounds like your problem is with the electronic VGT controller/actuator, so that wouldn't be caused by dirty Turbo blades.It might be you got the 1 out of 1000 or 1 out of 2000 that were defective or weak from the factory? It's inconvenient, but at least it is covered by the powertrain warranty. And you get a brand new one with zero miles that likely comes with a 2 year unlimited mile warranty.

 

[BigPapa]

We've gone through a lot of actuators at the school bus garage where I work. I think the latest update is the 3rd or 4th Generation of actuators. They all look the same except for the wiring and connector so I don't know what the problem with them is. I can tell you that while researching them on QuickServe I have found they list a unique part number with a note designating it is for the "Chrysler" application

 

[TCDiesel]

Fortunately the 2013+ 6.7 actuator is no longer integrated like 2007.5-12, the electronics can be R/R instead of replacing the turbo/Actuator.

 

[truckmen]

Truck is a 2015 srw 4X4 Aisin with 41,000 miles and tows a 8000 lb trailer most of the time. Tuesday while driving my exhaust brake stopped working and I noticed under acceleration i had much lower boost pressure than normal and also reduced power. No code set. Got to my work destination Ok.
Leaving work truck was still not performing right and CEL came on after about 1 mile. Plugged in my code reader and had code P00AF "turbo actuator performance" . Called the dealer and got an appointment for Thursday morning. Took the truck in and they checked it and said it needed a PCM reflash. They reflashed it and test drove and everything was OK. I headed off to work and about 10 miles later turbo quit again. Took the truck back in this morning and left it. They called this afternoon and said it needed a new turbo actuator and with the holiday weekend they won't have it until Tuesday or Wednesday. Just wondering if anyone else has had this type of failure. I thought I had seen an article about the turbo actuator in the TDR but looked through my back issues and couldn't find it.

Mine went out week before last while eastbound in SD grossing 37,500 lbs and with a full load of cars for VT and CT.
8 lbs of boost at 2600 RPM and 3-5 at 2100 RPM. Needless to say, it was a very long trip.
Repaired a few days ago. The final bill: $,2965.89.

 

[Newsa]

Fortunately the 2013+ 6.7 actuator is no longer integrated like 2007.5-12, the electronics can be R/R instead of replacing the turbo/Actuator.

Except it sounds like they practically doubled the price.

 

[TCDiesel]

Yep, Virgin Turbo and Actuator $3500.00.
Its Best to have/use two thermocouple's , one installed in the exhaust manifold and use the factory After/post turbo reading, compare the two readings they should stay about 250-350f apart, Example 1200/900 running temp would be ok , 1400/1100 to hot I would back off, Same go's for 1200/1000 running, for short periods of time use personal Judgment, Abuse that turbo and its going to suck up your wallet.