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Engine dies after first start up?

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03 2500 5.9, The last two days when started, the engine quits, and then it takes longer than usual to start. It has always started very quick, and at 212K miles I'm afraid it might be a injector going bad.
Thanks for any advice.
Gary
 
Is your ignition key chipped? Just a thought but I had one a while back and I can't remember exactly what it would do, but it would start up fine and die after a few seconds. There was an issue with the chip in the ignition key. Was setting a fault code also. I think the key had to be cycled then to get it restarted.
 
Is your ignition key chipped? Just a thought but I had one a while back and I can't remember exactly what it would do, but it would start up fine and die after a few seconds. There was an issue with the chip in the ignition key. Was setting a fault code also. I think the key had to be cycled then to get it restarted.

That would be a start and die with-in about 30 seconds.Normal start time
 
Check for cracked lines in the fuel lines. I had this problem with a Ford. The rubber hoses that connected the hard lines to the tank had cracked. The fuel in the line would start it and then the air would work it's way to the injector. Hard to start until the air purged. Cost me an injector pump because it took me too long to figure it out!
 
03 2500 5.9, The last two days when started, the engine quits, and then it takes longer than usual to start. It has always started very quick, and at 212K miles I'm afraid it might be a injector going bad.
Thanks for any advice.
Gary

Just noticed your truck is an 03-not sure how I missed that.Number 1 issue on your year is a failing lift pump if it still has the filter mounted pump.
 
If it happens every time you can do a volumn test.If it is intermittant you can verify by bypassing the lift pump.The pump is not needed to run fairly well.I have rescued a good number of trucks in the boonies by doing this and there will be no long term repurcussians from driving with out a pump.I do use an inline fuel filter since the easiest connection point at the frame rail quick connect and running all the way up to the injection pump
 
Due for an injector check, but, that sounds more like the FCA is starting to have problems. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace. Do you run an additive package? with the ULSD and the CR fuel system that is mandatory to keep things cleaned up.
 
I've been using Howes additive, but would like any advice on 2cycle oil some say is needed. I use only #2 diesel at shell.
Genos has the FCA, but I hate to start throwing money at parts without any knowledge of problem.
I've worked on gas engines for 40 yrs. but don't know much about diesels, and trying to locate a good diesel shop.
Thanks, Gary
 
2SO is a good substitute for additional lube but only part of the equation. A good cleaner is also need to cut down the build up of asphaltenes from the constant polishing and heating the fuel goes thru in a CR. If you are using consistently it is probably as good as the next one.
Have you check for codes? Anything showing that would indicate a problem? Does the problem show all the time or is it random? The FCA is one of the few things you can replace before digging deeper and not feel to bad about just throwing parts at it. It is known to cause issues like you have with higher mileage.
Injectors are another area to look at but you can run some comprehensive tests that will give a good idea if they need replaced. The FCA is a problem and there is no way exact to tell if is bad sans codes. Gauges to monitor LP pressure and rail pressure are also a good idea unless you want to pay someone with a scanner to check live operations. It would not be unusual to spend $300-500 on diagnosis to determine what to replace next which at times will also be guess. Decision tress work fine to find a lot of issues but at the bottom it is still a SWAG at times if the answer is not definitive what is really wrong. Frequently $300 worth of gauges will point the problem out in varying degrees, interpretation then becomes the problem.

Trying to get some places to do a injector test doesn't work, they want to send them out to be tested, for $300-400. Even if they did the test you would have to trust their interpretation and sometimes they don't trust themselves hence a 3rd party enters. The liability then transfers for the decision and results and you get to guess at the validity of either\or. Another option is buy your own scanner and start doing research. For about the same cost of someone else testing and pulling the injectors you can buy a scanner and some tools to do your own tests. All depends on how much you want to do and learn and how critical getting it fixed is.
 
Thanks for the great info, I found a friend of my sons, who works only on diesels and will look at it tomorrow. No engine light, but I have an ob2 scanner, and will check it.
I agree on getting some gauges, and tools, since I'm retired and enjoy working on motors. I'm learning a bunch on this forum.
 
Going to the shop on Monday since several things are needed, and too many projects going around the house.
Leaking injector lines, upper and lower rocker gaskets, valve adjustment, checking injectors and tubes.
I'll let you know how it goes.
 
I just picked it up, and they installed upper and lower rocker cover gaskets, new o rings on injector tubes, and checked valve lash.
The leaks were mainly from under torqued tube retainers, and fuel lines. He said its a wonder I didn't get fuel in my oil.
All good for now except the ac, and thats next.
Thanks for all the good advice.
 
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