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I'm close to ordering a new 2500 and I'm wondering if there is a difference in engine output between the Manual and the Automatic transmissions...?

Where do I find that information?

Picture is from the build and price site..

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Yes, there is a difference. Assuming things haven't changed in the last year, a 2500 with the auto will get you 800 ft/lbs and the manual is 660.
 
I believe the major concern is the clutch's ability to handle the torque.

but yes......autos are waaaaaaaay better. :)
 
May be waaaaaay better, but I want the fun factor of the Manual... How much will I notice the loss of 140 Ft/Lbs in everyday driving? Probably the most I will ever tow will be a 5,000 Lb Travel Trailer.
 
May be waaaaaay better, but I want the fun factor of the Manual... How much will I notice the loss of 140 Ft/Lbs in everyday driving? Probably the most I will ever tow will be a 5,000 Lb Travel Trailer.


I can't say from experience (I've never driven a manual w/Cummins) but if that's all you're towing....you'll never know the difference. You could tow that load with a gas half ton!
 
Having driven every variant of ctds over the years,i will tell you I don't like the way the 4th gen sticks drive.I am not against sticks in general I loved the way my 12 valve drove (4krpm and massive torque helped) but the torque management takes away the value in the new trucks.
 
Torque management in the G56 trucks is completely based on speedometer readings. I notice torque management up to about 40 mph. But it makes sense to have torque management in the lower gears, makes acceleration smoother. Plenty of torque in 5th and 6th gear where you need it to pass in the manual trans truck. Above 45 mph it feels like you have the full 660 ftlbs. Pulling 5000-14000 lbs, you don't even notice anything is back there.

Clutch is reportedly the weak link. Many upgrade the flywheel and clutch. I've pulled a 14,000 lb gooseneck full of livestock and a 5000 lb travel trailer. My truck is rated to pull 16,300 lbs.

The exhaust brake is really nice, just down shift if you want more braking. My clutch and flywheel are holding up fine. And i like the way it shifts now that it's broke in. I haven't driven mine in cold weather, so i don't know if it shifts worse in the cold. The stock clutch is auto adjusting.

I recommend test driving a both trannies before buying. I test drove a g56 3500, but bought a g56 2500.

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I had a 2012 that was manual and now have a 2013 auto. I'd take the manual any day over the slush box. But I grew up driving the truck it's really tough for me to get use to it driving me. I never noticed the lack of power with the 12. I had an 05 before it and the 12 felt like it could out pull it with ease. And I did have stage 1 injectors and a free flowing exhaust on the 05. The Auto 13 really pulls well. how ever it likes to lug. Many times I think it should be in a lower gear. However it will rearly down shift.It will just pull along. Only reason I gave up the 12 was issues with the emmissions system and it filling the crankcase with fuel all the time. Had the dealer had a manual 13 on the lot that's what I'd be driving. Beggers can't be choosers. The dealer worked it out for me to get out of the 12 and into a 13 that was on their lot...
 
Torque management in the G56 trucks is completely based on speedometer readings. I notice torque management up to about 40 mph. But it makes sense to have torque management in the lower gears, makes acceleration smoother. Plenty of torque in 5th and 6th gear where you need it to pass in the manual trans truck. Above 45 mph it feels like you have the full 660 ftlbs. Pulling 5000-14000 lbs, you don't even notice anything is back there.

Clutch is reportedly the weak link. Many upgrade the flywheel and clutch. I've pulled a 14,000 lb gooseneck full of livestock and a 5000 lb travel trailer. My truck is rated to pull 16,300 lbs.

The exhaust brake is really nice, just down shift if you want more braking. My clutch and flywheel are holding up fine. And i like the way it shifts now that it's broke in. I haven't driven mine in cold weather, so i don't know if it shifts worse in the cold. The stock clutch is auto adjusting.

I recommend test driving a both trannies before buying. I test drove a g56 3500, but bought a g56 2500.

Problem is no dealer around here has a Manual Cummins on the lot for a test drive..
 
Problem is no dealer around here has a Manual Cummins on the lot for a test drive..

I had the same problem. I drove to th e neighboring county to test drive. There were only 5 manuals in the whole state of Florida according to a search. I actually bought one (off the lot) from N. Carolina.

My wife didn't like the dually I test drove. But she loves the 2500.
 
I had the same problem. I drove to th e neighboring county to test drive. There were only 5 manuals in the whole state of Florida according to a search. I actually bought one (off the lot) from N. Carolina.

My wife didn't like the dually I test drove. But she loves the 2500.

How do you do a search without going up on each dealers inventory?
 
I had the same problem. I drove to th e neighboring county to test drive. There were only 5 manuals in the whole state of Florida according to a search. I actually bought one (off the lot) from N. Carolina.

My wife didn't like the dually I test drove. But she loves the 2500.

How do you do a search without going up on each dealers inventory?
 
Do your self a favor, get a 3500 SRW Cummins/Aisin with 385HP and 900TQ and the factory rear air ride suspension. *Oh and the 5er prep. *You WILL thank me!
 
I had a 2012 that was manual and now have a 2013 auto. I'd take the manual any day over the slush box. But I grew up driving the truck it's really tough for me to get use to it driving me. I never noticed the lack of power with the 12. I had an 05 before it and the 12 felt like it could out pull it with ease. And I did have stage 1 injectors and a free flowing exhaust on the 05. The Auto 13 really pulls well. how ever it likes to lug. Many times I think it should be in a lower gear. However it will rearly down shift.It will just pull along. Only reason I gave up the 12 was issues with the emmissions system and it filling the crankcase with fuel all the time. Had the dealer had a manual 13 on the lot that's what I'd be driving. Beggers can't be choosers. The dealer worked it out for me to get out of the 12 and into a 13 that was on their lot...

About the engine lugging......

1) I realize you can manually downshift, but does Tow/haul help this?

2) Doesn't lugging the engine cause extra soot production, inefficiency, lower turbo boost, and unnecessary wear?

3) If you buy an automatic, why would you always want to paddle shift it to the correct gear? Why wouldn't you want it to pick the right gear on its own?

4) Ram doesn't know how to program their cummins to work seamlessly with either the 68rfe or the Aisin. Dead pedal and lugging are the obvious symptoms of the indecision of the communication between the engine and transmission.

Lastly, if you don't have deadpedal when you purchase your auto transmission truck, it deadpedal might still rear its ugly head when you get a flash.
 
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