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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Aftermarket driveshaft replacement

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission cabs

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Gates K080810HD Serpentine Belt

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Aftermarket axle shaft replacement

I need the outer right hand side axle shaft for a 98 dodge 2500 dana 60. Dodge wants a staggering $600 for it! Has anyone ever used Denny's driveshaft for a replacement? Denny's lists one for $250. If not who can you recommend? Thanks.
 
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For axle shafts (not drive shafts as the title states), I'd get hold of a Yukon Axle and Gear dealer. Standard shafts won't be bad at all. I think Denny's is a Yukon or G2 retailer.
 
I need the outer right hand side axle shaft for a 98 dodge 2500 dana 60. Dodge wants a staggering $600 for it! Has anyone ever used Denny's driveshaft for a replacement? Denny's lists one for $250. If not who can you recommend? Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, why do you need a replacement axle shaft? Catastrophic u-joint failure or did you actually break the shaft? I think I'd just look for a used one as a replacement.
 
I had a pretty bad death wobble happen in the past. I recently had the axle seals replaced. While my mechanic had the axle apart he said the right outer shaft was nicked up pretty good and I should consider replacing it (2 days after I got the truck back). This also leads me to another question. My right front axle was leaking (not too bad but enough). I had the seal replaced and 2 days after getting the truck back it appeared it was still leaking (and more then it was previously). When I notified my mechanic that's when he mentioned the axle being nicked up. Does this make sense that I have a worse leak now?... it doesn't to me. He's a good reputable mechanic I've been dealing with for some time. I also know this is a tedious job replacing the right axle seal...
 
So, let's see. You took the truck to this guy to replace your front axle seals. He does the repair, you pay him and take the truck. Two days later the seals are leaking worse than when you took it to him and he says, "Oh yeah, that RH shaft is nicked up pretty good. You'll need to replace it to stop the leak." and you consider him a "good reputable mechanic"?

Sorry, but that pig wouldn't fly at any shop I've ever worked at. If the shaft needed replacing he should have notified you before the repair, not just put it back together anyway. My initial feeling here is that he had a hard time with this repair and knew he didn't get it right, gave it to you anyway HOPING it would be OK and now he's trying to divert the cause of the leak to bad parts instead of a poor repair. Even if the shaft is bad, it's still on him for not notifying you before-hand.
 
BigPappa yeah I hear you. There is a local Thoroughbred diesel shop in the area but they seem to always be booked months at a time.They recommended this mechanic and I've been using him a few years with good results but now this issue. I'm no mechanic but it doesn't seem correct that even if a shaft was bad that it would cause this leak, there is no odd noise or anything but i feel a slight wobble now at about 60mph and it seems to get a bit worse going up in mph from there.
 
BigPappa yeah I hear you. There is a local Thoroughbred diesel shop in the area but they seem to always be booked months at a time.They recommended this mechanic and I've been using him a few years with good results but now this issue. I'm no mechanic but it doesn't seem correct that even if a shaft was bad that it would cause this leak, there is no odd noise or anything but i feel a slight wobble now at about 60mph and it seems to get a bit worse going up in mph from there.

What the shop is saying is that the sealing surface is nicked where the seal rides,worn where the seal rides would be legit-nicked would be damaged by their hands.You should have been given the option to replace the shaft before it was reassembled.Sounds sketchy to me
 
There is nothing that should "nick" the axle shaft, especially in the seal area except reomavl, storage, or insertion damage.
You can have a wear Ridge build up after years of driving in wet conditions where water enters the tubes along with grit, but that's still not nicked. There are even speedy sleeves that can be used (as a band aid) for certain areas).
Sorry, man... I'm calling malarkey here on that diagnosis.

That being said, the removal of the shaft can result in a bit of gear oil exiting the diff and sitting in the tube. It will work its way out pretty quick with driving. I would suggest a good degrading of the inner C forging and knuckle area where the leak is now. Wait a week and do again. Then keep an eye out for leakage.
A quicker way is to elevate the opposite side overnight, say with a jack under the axle. This will get most of the gear oil out. Clean the heck out of it, and then keep an eye out for leaks.
I do hope it's just residual oil in the tube
 
Mikey makes a good point. You could be seeing residual oil coming out now. Being in Richmond, KY, I'm sure you have an incline you can park it on with that side down, clean it, and wait a week and see if it's still leaking like Mikey said.
 
Check the level of the oil in the front axle, it can not be overfilled. There is a flat spot below the fill port that extends down about (3/4"), the oil level has to be at the bottom of that flat spot or it will leak oil.*
 
Every time I've had my axle out, it would leak for a week or two. Like others said, it may be what you got left in the tube. If you find that you do actually need an axle, I may have one lying around that's reasonable.*
 
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