Universal Joint Issues

[FROGPOND]

I have replaced the driver side Hub Bearing and Universal Joint on my 2006 Ram, 187,000 miles. After 1500 miles it has developed a vibration at about 60 to 65 mph and has a shudder when I decelerate to 50mph.
Has anyone experienced this problem after they have replaced these parts.
Is there a way that I can verify that I have the Universal Joint back correctly?
Should the splines on the axle be installed exactly as they came out? I know that I did not do that.

 

[sag2]

When you installed the joint was it nice and free with no binding in the joint? Splines do not matter as they will change position with the first turn you make. By chance did you drop the front driveshaft? It has to go back in the same position..

 

[FROGPOND]

I did not drop the drive shaft during this replacement. The universal was free no binding but was much tighter than the original one. I checked the clip rings to make sure they were against the yoke and allowed the maximum free play. How free should they be, the spindle would not drop on its own weight as the original would.
My only guess is that I accidentally installed the yoke 180 deg out even though I marked the yoke.

THANKS for the Response!!!

 

[petersonj]

How free should they be, the spindle would not drop on its own weight as the original would.

You probably installed the u-joint correctly. When pressing the u-joint caps into place, the end yokes actually bend and hold a memory, although imperceptibly. This is what is causing the friction that won't allow the spindle to drop with its own weight. It is normal. Usually, I use some blocks of wood and a brass punch to relieve that pressure. Just as long as the cir-clips were in place (and are still in place), the u-joint is not causing the vibration.

It may be possible that the vibration is coming from a different source and doesn't have anything to do with the work you did. Can you get a sense of exactly where the sound / feel is coming from?

- John

 

[Wayne M.]

Get the 2 front wheels off the ground and steer the wheels about 50% to cut. Then with the transfer case in 2wd, you should have a nice easy roll by hand with the wheels, one at a time. If there's any universal binding, it will show. By doing this, you'll be exercising the joints through a good range of motion. If you point the wheels straight, and still feel a bind, if there is one, it might actually be a hub, brake, or other issue in the wheel. To be clear, with the wheels straight, the joint won't be flexing when spun.

 

[FROGPOND]

It feels like it is coming from the front of the truck. I can't tell if it is on the left or right side but it is a higher frequency vibration than a wheel being out of balance. Just to be sure I had the tires checked for balance and true today, everything was OK. The vibration is not violent but something is definitely wrong some where.

THANKS for the Response!!!

 

[FROGPOND]

Wayne
I will try your suggestions this afternoon. Will let you know what I find.

THANKS!!!

 

[sag2]

I did not drop the drive shaft during this replacement. The universal was free no binding but was much tighter than the original one. I checked the clip rings to make sure they were against the yoke and allowed the maximum free play. How free should they be, the spindle would not drop on its own weight as the original would.
My only guess is that I accidentally installed the yoke 180 deg out even though I marked the yoke.

THANKS for the Response!!!

Yoke position should not matter. Good info above on things to check.

 

[TConver]

Another suggestion when replacing ujoints either in the axle or the driveshaft it once the joint is pressed in to lay the part on a solid vice and give each ear a good whack with a 10lb hammer. This will relax the joint and allow it to move easily.

 

[AEdelheit]

If everything was smooth when first installed I suspect the issue is either front or rear driveline or possibly a tire. If the drivelines are original I would start there.

 

[FROGPOND]

Well guys I think I found it. After jacking the truck up as Wayne suggested and rotating the wheels I could not feel any binding but I did hear a squeak. I let the truck back down and put it in 4X4 and drove it 50 feet and I heard a clicking noise that I had not heard before:-laf. Doing as Mr. Edelheit suggested I when under it and found the back UV joint on the front axle with a slight amount of play in it. Don't know if I will tackle this job myself or not; I am a bit gun-shy of UV joints right now. Will keep you guys posted as to the outcome.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

 

[Wayne M.]

Excellent find. I felt mine going bad with the hi speed buzz in the seat, and at the time I was parking right against a long wall. It was nice out and with my window down I heard the telltale squeak-squeak as I stopped. I put the greasable precision joints in. Haven't looked back. I check em annually.
As far as changing larger universals like these, I use a ball joint press. I have an OTC one, but I hear the harbor freight one is swell too. Just yank the shaft, set it on 2 jackstands, and make a nice job. Leave the hammer on the bench.

 

[petersonj]

I have an OTC one, but I hear the harbor freight one is swell too.

I have both, but I periodically have to put the Harbor Freight one in the 20 ton press and straighten it out. The OTC one is bullet proof and I have worked it hard.

- John

 

[AEdelheit]

I would call a few driveline shops first, when I had mine done it was under $200 for a rebuild using good components and balancing where just the parts alone can get over $100 and the time starts adding up quick doing it yourself for the first time.