Exhaust filter regeneration

[Rpcapogna]

Check engine came on and after the display says exhaust filter100% regeneration required now. With engine running in neutral it would start regeneration in progress but would reach 90% full and stop without completing.
Now it has gone to displaying power reduced see dealer. Will not even start regeneration in progress.
Anyone can help? Could it be the EGR valve?
Thanks
Robert

 

[MichaelOverfield]

Sadly it appears you will need a dealership service. It's possible a stuck open EGR could contribute, but that should throw a P04xx code. The truck is not able to a proper Regen in neutral, parked, on it's own. It has to be driven, the more under load the better. What has been your recent driving pattern?

 

[Rpcapogna]

I've been driving urban some short high way no load. This happened while hauling a jeep Cherokee small load about 4500 lb on HW after about 4 hrs of driving

 

[Rpcapogna]

I've been driving urban & some short high way no load. This happened while hauling a jeep Cherokee small load about 4500 lb on HW after about 4 hrs of driving

 

[xcc_rider]

ECM controlled regen is locked out due to the reduced power mode so a dealer visit is in your future. The dealer can do a forced regen and clear the dpf BUT they also need to diagnose the cause of the increased soot make and fix it or you'll be in the same boat again. Possibly before you get home.

There is some kind of problem that is causing the increased soot load. Driving it while it has that problem will only overload the dpf, possibly cause an uncontrolled regen, excessively high regen temperature and critically damage the dpf. I know, I did it.
In other words, don't go for a long drive to try to get it to regen, you'll destroy the dpf and cost you thousands to replace it.

Anything that changes the air/fuel ratio will increase soot formation. Turbo, air filter, intercooler boot leak, injectors, egr valve, egr cooler leak etc. So yes it could be a stuck egr valve (my personal favorite) and in my experience it can stick without throwing a code.
Cleaning the egr valve could help but in my case it continued to stick open and had to be replaced.

 

[Rpcapogna]

Thanks really appreciate your time to respond

 

[MichaelOverfield]

ECM controlled regen is locked out due to the reduced power mode so a dealer visit is in your future. The dealer can do a forced regen and clear the dpf BUT they also need to diagnose the cause of the increased soot make and fix it or you'll be in the same boat again. Possibly before you get home.

There is some kind of problem that is causing the increased soot load. Driving it while it has that problem will only overload the dpf, possibly cause an uncontrolled regen, excessively high regen temperature and critically damage the dpf. I know, I did it.
In other words, don't go for a long drive to try to get it to regen, you'll destroy the dpf and cost you thousands to replace it.

Anything that changes the air/fuel ratio will increase soot formation. Turbo, air filter, intercooler boot leak, injectors, egr valve, egr cooler leak etc. So yes it could be a stuck egr valve (my personal favorite) and in my experience it can stick without throwing a code.
Cleaning the egr valve could help but in my case it continued to stick open and had to be replaced.

Just for this reason my EGR is unplugged, sure I have perpetual P0405, and the now Engine run light. I use the Ultragage to monitor for any other codes that could come in, and ignore the light. No sticking open EGR for me. Before I did the unplug, I monitored EGR position and signal to position error, with an alarm set for a difference over 20 %.. the alarm got annoying fast, stupid valve seems to cycle near constantly, and lags signal by a significant amount, not a surprise it could get stuck.. oh and all the errors in position to signal, no codes.. so good point you make here.

 

[xcc_rider]

Yup, after it (and the dpf) got replaced I unplugged it when I got home. For 18 months the only time I plugged it back in was for a smog check and then did the deletes when I got home.
In those 18 months I was amazed at how much better it ran and problem free it was. Did the same as you and monitored for codes while I ignored the P0405 code.

 

[Rpcapogna]

So I've been driving and was able to get regeneration to complete my codes at the moment are:
P1011 fuel pump delivery pressure too low
P242F diesel particulate filter restriction- ash accumulation
P0471 exhaust pressure sensor range /performance
P0087 fuel rail/system pressure -too low
From AutoZone most likely solution is: replace fuel filter.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance

 

[Rpcapogna]

Just for this reason my EGR is unplugged, sure I have perpetual P0405, and the now Engine run light. I use the Ultragage to monitor for any other codes that could come in, and ignore the light. No sticking open EGR for me. Before I did the unplug, I monitored EGR position and signal to position error, with an alarm set for a difference over 20 %.. the alarm got annoying fast, stupid valve seems to cycle near constantly, and lags signal by a significant amount, not a surprise it could get stuck.. oh and all the errors in position to signal, no codes.. so good point you make here.

So I've been driving and was able to get regeneration to complete my codes at the moment are:
P1011 fuel pump delivery pressure too low
P242F diesel particulate filter restriction- ash accumulation
P0471 exhaust pressure sensor range /performance
P0087 fuel rail/system pressure -too low
From AutoZone most likely solution is: replace fuel filter.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance

 

[MichaelOverfield]

So I've been driving and was able to get regeneration to complete my codes at the moment are:
P1011 fuel pump delivery pressure too low
P242F diesel particulate filter restriction- ash accumulation
P0471 exhaust pressure sensor range /performance
P0087 fuel rail/system pressure -too low
From AutoZone most likely solution is: replace fuel filter.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance

That is quite the list, how many miles on the current fuel filter? That could be one of your problems. If rail pressure is low, you'll not get complete combustion, and more soot.. you could also have a pick up fuel pump issue as well. That pump is in the fuel tank. I'd not be driving the truck until you find the issue, you could cause additional, and very expensive damage running with those codes, the DPF could be permanently damaged already, they run near $2k.. which is a significant reason many opt for a delete.

 

[xcc_rider]

So I've been driving and was able to get regeneration to complete my codes at the moment are:
P1011 fuel pump delivery pressure too low
P242F diesel particulate filter restriction- ash accumulation
P0471 exhaust pressure sensor range /performance
P0087 fuel rail/system pressure -too low
From AutoZone most likely solution is: replace fuel filter.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance

Youre lucky you got it to regen in limp mode. Most times the dealer needs to reset it to allow a regen. I was lucky too when I had my problems.

Fuel filter would be my first and cheapest thing to replace. It could be you got some bad fuel and plugged it up. If the fuel codes come back then you've got some more checking to do. FRPV and intank pump would be next on my list.

When you clear the codes does the 242f clear also?

If the 0471 comes back then try cleaning the exhaust pressure sensor, housing, tubing and tubing ports on both the exhaust manifold and sensor housing.

 

[Rpcapogna]

Youre lucky you got it to regen in limp mode. Most times the dealer needs to reset it to allow a regen. I was lucky too when I had my problems.

Fuel filter would be my first and cheapest thing to replace. It could be you got some bad fuel and plugged it up. If the fuel codes come back then you've got some more checking to do. FRPV and intank pump would be next on my list.

When you clear the codes does the 242f clear also?

If the 0471 comes back then try cleaning the exhaust pressure sensor, housing, tubing and tubing ports on both the exhaust manifold and sensor housing.

Thanks man I'll keep you posted your response reliefs some pressure thanks again

 

[John Buchanan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FwS96__Y6c

 

[xcc_rider]

This is true IF there's no other factors are affecting soot production. Ideally you should never get to soot level limp mode in normal driving. Your first warning of an issue is the P1451 code. This indicated a higher than normal soot level (80%) and is a reality check time message. You need to go for a drive as the video shows.

The next is P242f which iirc indicates a (90-100%) level and by now you should/can have the dpf 100% full, reduced power, see dealer message.

If you did go for a drive and the dpf continued to fill resulting in the P242f code and messages then there's another factor at play that's creating more soot than the regen can burn off. Egr valve, egr cooler, turbo, boost leak, injectors etc can all increase soot production so you've got some troubleshooting to do.

Also at this time the 242f code disables active regen to protect the dpf from damage. IF you're lucky you MAY be able to clear the codes and get it to initiate a regen cycle on a long drive BUT this is an exception and not the rule and has it's risks.

If you decide to go for a drive and it works but you get the P200c code then you've had an uncontrolled regen with excessive temps and have damaged your $2400 dpf. If it works and no code then you got lucky.
It's this luck factor that keeps me recommending a forced regen at the dealer as it's much cheaper than a new dpf.

In my case, my egr stuck open and the dpf was damaged in the initial event (blew lots of soot and dpf substrate out the tail pipe with absolutely no codes) so I wasn't risking anything by having the codes cleared (shop did it with a diagnostic tool) and going for a drive. The result was good and I avoided a 250 mile trailer/truck tow to the nearest dealer for repairs along with a hotel room for my wife, BIG dog, daughter and grand kid.

It's your truck and your call...