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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing battery cable connectors, but not the cable
- Thread starter tomblue01
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Timd32
TDR MEMBER
Look if it's SAE or AWG, I forget, but here is a good link to the common circular mills of battery cables.
http://www.batterycable.co/automotive_cable_gauge.html
Depending on the crimper it might work out OK, I would try it, you said at some point you might replace these, crimped and tinned it might be fine, there are other factors, like your age of battery, fuel system condition, to how much amps these are going to have to pull to start.
I have a whole box of incorrect or bad idea brand new stuff, those plated square battery terminals are one of those, they would never work on my truck the way it was. There is a area to members to PAY IT FORWARD to other users for free. I have used that to send stuff to folks who could use my bad idea new parts that are non-returnable. It's a great feature of the TDR.
Good question on the "E" I looked all over for that and don't have a good answer for that. I don't see a gauge breakdown anywhere. All my guesses I failed to come up with a consistent answer. One was "end" like bare end which mine was, but it's shown that way on the neg which mine was a crimp end.
8-20 And 8-02 are the same, just a little different detail. 8-20 Will work there is a note to refer to 8-02 If you don't find something in 8-20.
http://www.batterycable.co/automotive_cable_gauge.html
Depending on the crimper it might work out OK, I would try it, you said at some point you might replace these, crimped and tinned it might be fine, there are other factors, like your age of battery, fuel system condition, to how much amps these are going to have to pull to start.
I have a whole box of incorrect or bad idea brand new stuff, those plated square battery terminals are one of those, they would never work on my truck the way it was. There is a area to members to PAY IT FORWARD to other users for free. I have used that to send stuff to folks who could use my bad idea new parts that are non-returnable. It's a great feature of the TDR.
Good question on the "E" I looked all over for that and don't have a good answer for that. I don't see a gauge breakdown anywhere. All my guesses I failed to come up with a consistent answer. One was "end" like bare end which mine was, but it's shown that way on the neg which mine was a crimp end.
8-20 And 8-02 are the same, just a little different detail. 8-20 Will work there is a note to refer to 8-02 If you don't find something in 8-20.
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Timd32
TDR MEMBER
A common theme in the early TDR books, you modify it you are your own warranty.
In our cases we are usually overbuildikg these things beyond the original design intent. That could could help or hurt.
If it looks shady it will fail at 2am, in the rain, on a Sunday, pulling your trailer, in a valley with no cell service up hill both ways to a service center.
In our cases we are usually overbuildikg these things beyond the original design intent. That could could help or hurt.
If it looks shady it will fail at 2am, in the rain, on a Sunday, pulling your trailer, in a valley with no cell service up hill both ways to a service center.
Timd32
TDR MEMBER
I opted for some long lead time yellow tops from one of our battery vendors ATBATT, they shipped from the factory direct to them in CA then to NJ, very well packed. Took about 3 weeks total but saved a bunch of money. Was close to the cost of the DURACELL AGM at Sam's Club, they are a awesome looking battery by spec.
My hold downs across the rad support were broke and some pulled out, so I used some galvanized caddy clips beam clamp with a 1/4 hole. I also GalvaBrite top coat everything metal that remains bare like that, look that up for a great galvanize coat, it's like a cold galva spray they use for welding, it can be used for that but it's got a nicer heavy flake satin finish. The other stuff is flat finish.
Re-term all the other stuff and I use heat shrink but put a small cap of silicone near the ends and then heat shrink and it oozes out a bit, let it dry. Also Molex IP67 connectors, I got a sample set that came with a bunch of different pins that worked for some of the stuff that was too far gone.
Yeah for me I had time. I have no water source in my garage so I used a tarp under the truck and some large black drain boxes, normal auto parts cheap degreaser, then used a 2.5 gal pump sprayer to wash it down, Aerokroil all hardware, dissemseble clean, scrap most hardware, replaced the coolant tubes that were seaping. Hours of cleaning replacing scrubbing, repeat, and repeated some more, then prep the metal stuff, prime and paint, let it cure.
My hold downs across the rad support were broke and some pulled out, so I used some galvanized caddy clips beam clamp with a 1/4 hole. I also GalvaBrite top coat everything metal that remains bare like that, look that up for a great galvanize coat, it's like a cold galva spray they use for welding, it can be used for that but it's got a nicer heavy flake satin finish. The other stuff is flat finish.
Re-term all the other stuff and I use heat shrink but put a small cap of silicone near the ends and then heat shrink and it oozes out a bit, let it dry. Also Molex IP67 connectors, I got a sample set that came with a bunch of different pins that worked for some of the stuff that was too far gone.
Yeah for me I had time. I have no water source in my garage so I used a tarp under the truck and some large black drain boxes, normal auto parts cheap degreaser, then used a 2.5 gal pump sprayer to wash it down, Aerokroil all hardware, dissemseble clean, scrap most hardware, replaced the coolant tubes that were seaping. Hours of cleaning replacing scrubbing, repeat, and repeated some more, then prep the metal stuff, prime and paint, let it cure.
Timd32
TDR MEMBER
While you are in there if you see anything like this better off replacing it.
This is/was my water in fuel sensor harness, I cut it out then had to cut off the end from my new WIF sensor, because I don't think the prev. owner or mechanic knew it unplugged and was just twisting it off with each filter change so it was like a bread bag twist tie. So it broke and they hacked it back together, then it broke and they hacked, ummm how about you unplug it. Or delete it all together. I like it so it got rebuilt.
But same deal opted to build some IP67 connectors up so now I have a nice disconnect to work with.
This is/was my water in fuel sensor harness, I cut it out then had to cut off the end from my new WIF sensor, because I don't think the prev. owner or mechanic knew it unplugged and was just twisting it off with each filter change so it was like a bread bag twist tie. So it broke and they hacked it back together, then it broke and they hacked, ummm how about you unplug it. Or delete it all together. I like it so it got rebuilt.
But same deal opted to build some IP67 connectors up so now I have a nice disconnect to work with.
mwilson
TDR MEMBER
*That* explains it....
It certainly didn't help me any. Some brain cells gave their all during hydrocarbon ingestion...
don't have said crimps... plan on using a solder slug (made for 2/0!)
Timd32
TDR MEMBER
Yeah it a lot of fun to use.
It has some issues, currently OD does not work, and is a "pig oiler" as my one electrical teachers would say when I went to tech school.
Oil pan needs to be fixed, orig owner put a brand new pan on but did a bad job on the gasket and leaks bad.
But got it going and is a great truck.
It has some issues, currently OD does not work, and is a "pig oiler" as my one electrical teachers would say when I went to tech school.
Oil pan needs to be fixed, orig owner put a brand new pan on but did a bad job on the gasket and leaks bad.
But got it going and is a great truck.
A non-rainy day provided no excuse not to work on the truck. I hoped someone here might have had some more experience with 1/0 vs. 2/0 cables, but time pressures me.
I've decided to try just 1 cable because I cannot afford to replace them all right now.
18mm socket for removing D-side neg. cable from engine block [engine block had a nice shiny spot on it!]. Since I don't have a garage, I set the cable on my tailgate and cut old connector off with a hacksaw. The copper cross-section looked good. I removed 5/8" of sheathing to prepare for inserting [this supposedly 1/0 ga cable] into a 2/0 lug. The exterior of the copper had oxidized. Currently, both ends sit in jars filled with mild acid. That's where I'm at right now. They'll sit for a another couple hours, then I'll dip them in a baking soda solution. Heat up the lug with the solder slug in it. Mate the cable to the lug. Reinstall!
Pics to follow.
I've decided to try just 1 cable because I cannot afford to replace them all right now.
18mm socket for removing D-side neg. cable from engine block [engine block had a nice shiny spot on it!]. Since I don't have a garage, I set the cable on my tailgate and cut old connector off with a hacksaw. The copper cross-section looked good. I removed 5/8" of sheathing to prepare for inserting [this supposedly 1/0 ga cable] into a 2/0 lug. The exterior of the copper had oxidized. Currently, both ends sit in jars filled with mild acid. That's where I'm at right now. They'll sit for a another couple hours, then I'll dip them in a baking soda solution. Heat up the lug with the solder slug in it. Mate the cable to the lug. Reinstall!
Pics to follow.
I do have experience with working with this type of cable, and making crimps. My experience has been not to mix them up. The method I have used, is a large bolt cutter size crimping tool with revolving dies. One selects the dies for the terminal, and once the end is over the wire, its crimped. Usually twice. You'll be able to pull your truck up a hill with that end on that cable. You won't get that using a 2/0 end on a 1/0 cable. I suppose you could fill with solder, but that's a liability. Usually we heat shrink the joint and/ or use a 3M electrical sealant.
This work should be fun and rewarding. I hope it is for you.
Sadly, Wayne, I must work with what I have. Both ends of the cable will have a nice copper shine to them when I'm done. I suppose that oxidation runs farther down the cable -- I'll find out another time, however. =]
I forgot to get a caliper measurement on the bare cable. After I neutralize the acid, I'll grab a couple diameter measurements.
I forgot to get a caliper measurement on the bare cable. After I neutralize the acid, I'll grab a couple diameter measurements.
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An Imperfect World:
What do you do when the measurements don't agree with what's in your mind? lol
There are 3 stock wires connecting to the D-side Neg post: big wire coming from the block; smaller wire coming from the bumper; smaller still wire coming from the cross member supporting the rad,cac,ac, etc.
I have cut the cables and stripped the sheathing back. I take 3 measurements from different angles near the sheathing from each of those cables. Green colored numbers = FSM.
a) big guy: .373", .351", .370" -- avg = .360"
2/0 = .365"
1/0 = .325"
b) bumper wire: .142", .138", .141" -- avg = .140"
7ga = .144"
8ga = .129"
c) smallest guy: .112", .114", .117" -- avg = .114"
9ga = .114"
10ga = .102"
When I look at the numbers, I see: 2/0ga; 7ga; 9ga <-- a consistent 1ga increase from what's in the FSM. *scratches head* Who uses 7ga wire??? 9ga???
I started out this morning simply wanting to measure the big guy in order to confirm a 1/0 vs 2/0 gauge. I have reached my conclusion. The measurements don't lie, and despite what the numbers might lead one to believe, it's 1/0ga cable.
Reason: The wires expand ever so slightly when the sheathing is removed. The big cable also underwent a sawing action, which could easily have led to a bit of separation [measurements taken only 1/2" away from where I cut it].
What do you do when the measurements don't agree with what's in your mind? lol
There are 3 stock wires connecting to the D-side Neg post: big wire coming from the block; smaller wire coming from the bumper; smaller still wire coming from the cross member supporting the rad,cac,ac, etc.
I have cut the cables and stripped the sheathing back. I take 3 measurements from different angles near the sheathing from each of those cables. Green colored numbers = FSM.
a) big guy: .373", .351", .370" -- avg = .360"
2/0 = .365"
1/0 = .325"
b) bumper wire: .142", .138", .141" -- avg = .140"
7ga = .144"
8ga = .129"
c) smallest guy: .112", .114", .117" -- avg = .114"
9ga = .114"
10ga = .102"
When I look at the numbers, I see: 2/0ga; 7ga; 9ga <-- a consistent 1ga increase from what's in the FSM. *scratches head* Who uses 7ga wire??? 9ga???
I started out this morning simply wanting to measure the big guy in order to confirm a 1/0 vs 2/0 gauge. I have reached my conclusion. The measurements don't lie, and despite what the numbers might lead one to believe, it's 1/0ga cable.
Reason: The wires expand ever so slightly when the sheathing is removed. The big cable also underwent a sawing action, which could easily have led to a bit of separation [measurements taken only 1/2" away from where I cut it].
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On the big 1/0ga cable, near the battery end, the acid fully restored the exposed copper. [When I finally buy a new cable, remind me to slice the sheathing off this old one in order to see how far down the oxidation went.]
Near the engine block end of the cable, the acid didn't work as well. I wire brushed the grease off, but I didn't use a degreaser afterwards. I think the remnants of grease prevented it from working well. Sadly, it's time to install the cables. [I'll remember to degrease the other side when I change out those ends.]
***
Does anyone know what the "E" represents? 0ERD also 00ERD
Near the engine block end of the cable, the acid didn't work as well. I wire brushed the grease off, but I didn't use a degreaser afterwards. I think the remnants of grease prevented it from working well. Sadly, it's time to install the cables. [I'll remember to degrease the other side when I change out those ends.]
***
Does anyone know what the "E" represents? 0ERD also 00ERD
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ubt-840p/Electrical-accessories I used these to replace ends at both batteries, packed with https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...ahUKEwjYxrCzqNfVAhVi5oMKHWm_CyYQwg8INw&adurl= inserted cable ends, tightened and they've been great, going on 3 years or so now.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
