Ball joint time soon

[The patriot]

Greasing my truck, I noticed some very minor movement in the left upper BJ when greasing it.
May as well start preparing. I got 141K miles out of this front end. I think I got my money's worth.
What brand is preferred? I want ones with grease zerks. Nothing ever wore out due to excessive lubricant.
What else is typically changed when doing this? I want all the parts ready for the job.
This is my 1st 4x4, so I'm new to these front ends.
FWIW I already replaced the steering box, pitman arm and track bar a while back. I believe they're still good.

 

[mfurrh55]

I just replaced mine with XRF lifetime ball joints and they do have grease zerks

 

[Wayne M.]

Moog has been a big disappointment in a lot of applications, especially my 3 gen. I went with Dynatracs.

 

[phantomusa]

Moog has been a big disappointment in a lot of applications, especially my 3 gen. I went with Dynatracs.

Wayne M
I agree with you about Moog they use to be top of the line quality products but recently thats not the case anymore
There are some company's making excellent replacement suspension parts

 

[SAndreasen]

Replace the ujoints in the axles with greasable

 

[NIsaacs]

Greasing my truck, I noticed some very minor movement in the left upper BJ when greasing it.

Keep in mind some movement is normal. I have had several tire shops try to sell me new ones over the years, I tell them never mind, I will change them when it is time. At 310k they are still original, with no ill effects of tire wear or driving issues. Here is some info, read the first post:

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrSbgia6qtZd04AZa9XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEya244MGdiBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMyBHZ0aWQDVUkyQzNfMQRzZWMDc3I-/RV=2/RE=1504467739/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cumminsforum.com%2fforum%2f07-5-09-3rd-gen-6-7l-non-powertrain%2f233796-ball-joints-facts-fiction.html/RK=1/RS=E1VsO.S5jgeFkRCgy7RX__UxOm0-

Nick

 

[The patriot]

Thanks guys.
My eyes used to be better than 20/10 but I'm getting old.
I'm pretty sure I saw more than .060" - .090" movement, but it was up & down, not side to side.

 

[phantomusa]

Best advice for non mechanics is take your truck to a alignment shop and have them check it for worn out of spec parts
I take my truck in for alignment about once a year they always check for outta spec parts before they will do any alignment they told me I have a upper right ball joint showing wear but it was within specs that was 3 years ago and its still within specs

 

[Wayne M.]

Thanks guys.
My eyes used to be better than 20/10 but I'm getting old.
I'm pretty sure I saw more than .060" - .090" movement, but it was up & down, not side to side.

That's not too bad. I'd monitor them. Meanwhile save your scheckles for the good stuff.

 

[The patriot]

Maybe I will, but there's still relevant info here.
I always thought highly of Moog......

 

[petersonj]

I always thought highly of Moog......

I can't tell you whether or not Moog makes a good ball joint; but, I did replace my original upper and lower ball joints with Moog in February of 2015 at 216,000 miles on originals that were still performing fine.. I now have 279,000 on the odometer and all of the Moog ball joints are still performing well.

I will post any failures if and when they happen.

- John

 

[Wayne M.]

I know moog outsourced a lot of stuff years ago, and they were always the best stuff around. I put them in blindly in 2013, and they're gone. Taken out back in April. RH lowers were completely shot. NYC roads are bad, but they should have put up more a fight. I greased them all the time.

 

[AmberCarman]

Anyone know how to tell if you will need adjustable ball joints or not when you go to order replacements? I have an 02 4x4 auto.

 

[The patriot]

I'm sorry, I dont know how to tell if you need adjustable ball joints.
I'm not even sure how they are adjustable. I suppose they adjust to remove play in the joint. ??
My originals lasted me this far, I really can't see the need for adjustables, at least in my application.
@5K miles/yr, if these last as long as the factories...it'll outlive me.
I did however add my own grease zerks when it was nearly new. I KNOW that has a LOT to do with how long mine lasted.
I greased mine at EVERY oil change, and if I hit some particularly rough road in between oil changes ......as needed.
NJ roads are pretty bad. If you've even spent time down south, you may think the NJ govt is actively trying to sabotage your truck.

 

[JR]

The stud on the joint is offset which gives you a small degree of camber adjustment.

Many of the Moog ball joints I've seen are knurled, ok if the bore is already loose from pressing in multiple sets but otherwise I'd stay clear of them. If you press in a knurled set you'll likely be changing the entire knuckle the next time you need ball joints.

 

[The patriot]

I did some research and went with the Mevotech BJ's.
A guy on ebay had them cheap with an "offer" option.
I got the uppers for $50/pr and the lowers for $62/pr. Delivered.
Lots of You tubing and I think I can do it. This is the first 4x4 I've ever did these on.
Does anyone know if the horrible freight BJ kit will fit/work with these?
I have a couple friends local who almost definetly has a good tool for this I can borrow, but for $50, I'd rather just get my own.. (any excuse for new tools...:-laf )

 

[JR]

Yours is a 98?

When I did mine (98) I took both bj nuts loose, removed the axle shaft nut and cut both ball joints through the boots with a 6" cut off wheel. This affords to take the entire knuckle assembly to a press and punch em out. Mine were so frozen in place it took upwards of 8-10 ton on a 50 ton press to get em to break loose.
No way a cheapo bj press would have done that.

Of course at this point you need to look closely at axle universal joints and wheel bearings. Its more money but very little extra time once your this deep.

 

[The patriot]

Yup. 98.
I'm going to look around real good. U joints, bearings , seals etc. I'm also thinking on modding the factory bearing to be able to grease it....maybe....The bearing unit is quite pricey, especially since I have 4 wheel ABS....
I have to lube the pins on my calipers, theyre not old, but have been sticking. Probably due to the fact it sits a lot.

A couple of the videos suggested to hook up the press tighten it down..., then air hammer at it & "it will pop"....smh Or hammer it with a BFH....

I've been Kroil'ing them heavily for a week now. I hope it helps.
I've never skimped on the grease, I'd be best to bring it somewhere & power wash the general area, or it'll be a VERY messy job.

Pricing tie rod ends etc....just in case. Trac bar & pitman arm should be OK.

 

[mfurrh55]

Yeah I used a set from Harbor Freight , worked on for me on my 07, I also pressed the ujoints out with them on my front axle shafts, I used a big cheater pipe on them too and they held up, Monte

 

[FHerault]

I'm using a press now but I've used a bottle jack and impact sockets for the first set years ago with good success.
To break loose the unit bearing, you could use the ''steering method'', it's just magical and can save you a lot of time and crushed fingers