2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Running Jacob's exhaust brake Without the controller?

[moparguy]

Hopefully the title defines the challenge adequately. I've had for 10 plus years on a dusty shelf a Jacob's inline (non-turbo mounted) exhaust brake for 4" exhaust. It has a 2370es dual coil solenoid actuator. Unfortunately I don't have any of the control electronics, only the cast iron butterfly body with the solenoid mounted on it along with the clamps to secure to the exhaust pipe.

Since the solenoid slams the valve closed when 12 volts is applied I'm thinking I can use this, the question is exactly how ? Online research indicates the solenoid draws almost 60 amps so a 60 to 80 amp relay would be needed. Would 2 be required, one to open the other to close? My simple mind thinks an appropriate shifter mounted rocker switch (perhaps, button may be better ?) that I could engage on big hills and with a finger tap disengage at the bottom. But, how to wire it????????

Any help on wiring and any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

[GAmes]

I don't know if this will help, but perhaps it will.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1753153-my-diy-exhaust-brake.html

 

[moparguy]

Well, a bit of research and looking at online images tells me I have a US Gear D-Celerator® exhaust brake. The label with numbers has faded and was unable to read. Don't know if this a good thing or not.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I would think the brake has overcenter resistance to keep it in the shifted position, that 60 amp load on the solenoid has to be momentary? bg

 

[damar]

There are two version, air version and electric version. I have had the electric on my truck since 2007 with no problems. You need 1. wired remote switch. 2. wiring harness. 3. ecm under dash model electric control box. box is wired to unit on exhaust pipe, heavy duty relay, remote switch. 4. wireing harness extension. 5. heavy duty relay. If you don't have these parts the best use is as a door stop.

 

[moparguy]

There are two version, air version and electric version. I have had the electric on my truck since 2007 with no problems. You need 1. wired remote switch. 2. wiring harness. 3. ecm under dash model electric control box. box is wired to unit on exhaust pipe, heavy duty relay, remote switch. 4. wireing harness extension. 5. heavy duty relay. If you don't have these parts the best use is as a door stop.

danmar, great to hear you've had troublefree service from your EB. If you would, help me understand why I can't operate the brake with a simple switch, assuming it's wired correctly with a relay. I'm not interested in the accelerator pedal switch or any of the other features, just on and off, same as old school big trucks.

 

[damar]

Might work. You will need a 20 amp fuse then a toggle swith to turn and off. once you activate the electric solenoid to close the butterfly to activate the brake you will then need a circuit to power the electric solenoid in the other direction to open the brake. Wiring shown on instructions is 10 gauge from battery to relay to solenoid to under dash ecm. You will also need a switched 12 volt supply. Good luck.

 

[bromano676]

I use a shifter mounted switch. I have the BD switch, I think I got it from Genos a while back.
I have been thinking about by passing the computer controller on mine as well.
the computer has been acting up and not always engaging the brake when I ask it to.

Back in the day they used to use a pedal switch and a toggle switch. so any time your foot was off the accelerator the brake was engaged. If you were sitting at a light you needed to turn off the switch. simple enough.

The down side to not having the pedal switch too is that if you were to leave the toggle on and try to accelerate you will over pressurize the exhaust system and float the exhaust valves.

FYI if we are talking about your 95, if I remember right the exhaust valve springs on the 12 valve needed to be upgraded to 60 pound springs if you wanted to use an EB so that you dont float the exhaust valves

 

[moparguy]

bromano676, you're spot on about the exhaust valves on the 95. 30 lbs, I've already upgraded to 60 lb. exhaust springs so that's handled.

Since you're considering the same system, do you know if a single relay and a 3 way on-off-on switch will do the job. Would you need momentary switches? This may be more complicated than my simple mind would hope.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Is there one reversable solenoid or two separate? bg

 

[moparguy]

Is there one reversable solenoid or two separate? bg

One solenoid.

 

[B.G. Smith]

How many wires does it have? Is there a spring return in one direction? Sorry for all the questions, we are gonna work this out. b

 

[moparguy]

How many wires does it have? Is there a spring return in one direction? Sorry for all the questions, we are gonna work this out. b

3 wires, red, black & white. 10ga. The solenoid is a 2370 es(?). Dual coil unit. No spring. And thanks!

 

[B.G. Smith]

So that is a double action solenoid, reversing polarity reverses direction of solenoid core. Can you tell if there is something that holds the butterfly in open or closed position? Those wires are probably red, positive, white ground and black negative.

 

[moparguy]

The default position with no power is open. It'll be a few days before I'm back home to give it a close look.

 

[moparguy]

Well, finally made it back home. I failed to say earlier but no springs involved. It's all in the dual coil solenoid. Not the best of pictures but these may help. The last image shows all the stuff I "Don't" have.

One thing I hope to do is have a very simple system. Basically a simple switch that controls the brake along with a relay to energize the solenoid.

One last thing, the normal position of the brake's butterfly is open. Power closes, remove power and it snaps open.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ron

 

[mwilson]

Why does that remind me of a Cummins shut down solenoid???

What's the little vacuum looking dohickey???

 

[moparguy]

Yep, the solenoid and boot are similar for sure. The vacuum looking pot is for excess backpressure bleed-off when the brake is engaged.

 

[mwilson]

So I don't see the need for the third wire if it snaps open on it's own...just thinking out loud here....that should only require a hot and a ground to energize...

Wish I had a schematic for the little black box thingy.....concerned that the wire colors going to the solenoid don't match the schematic, that shows Gray and White going to solenoid, not Red, Black and White.

 

[mwilson]

Note wire colors.....

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-2-1-2-spacing-super-solenoid-mechanics-complete-fix-kit.html