New to Turbo Diesel Register

[light12pdr]

Hi. After hearing about this forum for years, I decided to join up because I need to learn and hopefully contribute. I am a mechanic by trade, but I don't know about modifications/upgrades for the 1st Gen trucks. I have purchased a 1993 D350 Cab/Chassis truck (10,500 GVW) that was formerly a U-haul rental. It is stock with 200K on the odometer and an Overdrive transmission that I was told was replaced at one point (don't know when). I would like to use it to occasionally to haul a gooseneck trailer that would weigh upwards of 9K to 14K lbs. I am not looking for 0-60 performance or tire burning 1/4 mile times. I don't want higher performance mods that would stress the trans or any other part for that matter. All I want to do is have good reliability and durability. I do not have a heavy foot and I just want to get there safe. my one worry is the durability of the transmission.

I am guessing that people like me have come here before and some of you may be tired of answering the same questions over and over. Please bear with me on this. This may be old hat to you, but I am eager to learn. I would appreciate any knowledge you can give me. If you can point me to threads or back issues of the magazine that would help me that would help. Lastly, I can perform all of the work necessary to any part of the truck so I am familiar with the components.

Thank you

 

[NIsaacs]

Some good info here:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/251963-1st-Generation-FAQ-s

And here:

http://dodgeram.org/ram.html

Nick

 

[DVolk]

One of the things to do is get the exhaust opened up , it don't have to be strait pipe but at least open so it will flow

 

[RSchwarzli]

Welcome to TDR!

A few thoughts....

- Any mods over 30-40 hp when towing heavy (for a first gen anyways) on a stock gen 1 transmission is going to be putting it in questionable territory. Especially if the transmission is older.

- Before doing anything, get some gauges for your baseline. Pyro (Exhaust gas temps), boost, tach, and transmission temp. By getting a base line for things like the transmission, you will notice if it is starting to slip from too much power as the temp would go up significantly. Then you know you have hit your limit. You can also avoid melting pistons this way as you can see your EGTs.

- The key to power and transmission life is how you use it. These engines will make a lot of torque, but they will also eat stock trannies if used excessively.

Robert

 

[light12pdr]

Thank you all for your help. I was wondering...If I only do mods that help efficiency, like larger exhaust, increased airflow into the engine, and do not increase horsepower, will that help the stock transmission live longer? I don't care if it takes me longer to climb a hill or accelerate from a dead stop if it means that my transmission or something else won't fail.

From what I am seeing as well as your advice, I need to have gauges to watch what is going on. If I see temps climb, I need to take it easier. I am learning that Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) is a big deal


What gauge packages do you recommend? Where is the best way to measure EGT and trans temperature?

I am able to rebuild the transmission. What kit or mods would make it stronger?

 

[RSchwarzli]

Thank you all for your help. I was wondering...If I only do mods that help efficiency, like larger exhaust, increased airflow into the engine, and do not increase horsepower, will that help the stock transmission live longer? I don't care if it takes me longer to climb a hill or accelerate from a dead stop if it means that my transmission or something else won't fail.

Efficiency and HP when it comes to diesels are the same thing. if you add larger exhaust, better intake system, change timing, etc; it will make more power. Example: At stock 160 hp, I did 16 mpg. At 400 HP, I did 28 MPG. Unlike a gasoline vehicle, diesels consume fuel based on load. So while you can make it run more efficient, it will technically create more power too. Not much by just intake and exhaust mind you. Like 5 hp maybe if the injection pump is left alone. But at that point, I would ask then what the point was in upgrading those two items as it wont make MPG difference really.

From what I am seeing as well as your advice, I need to have gauges to watch what is going on. If I see temps climb, I need to take it easier.

100% correct. Gauges are what cover your *** when towing. Especially important when towing, and on older vehicles. I have had them prevent me from being on the side of the road more than once as I took it easy and prevented the issue, or limped back to town before I got full failure.

I am learning that Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) is a big deal

Yup. Its the equivalent of a air fuel ratio meter for a gasoline engine with a performance meter, piston melter alert system, MPG gauge, turbo efficiency monitor, load calculator, ambient air temp probe, injector monitor, MAP sensor, and throttle position sensor all in one gauge. Yes that one gauge does all that. It literally tells you everything once you learn how to read it and the boost gauge together.

What gauge packages do you recommend? Where is the best way to measure EGT and trans temperature?

I wouldnt say a package is the right way to go. I would get a good brand, and choose the individual gauges you need. Isspro and Autometer are both trusted brands and offer gages to match the Gen 1 interior. Then for mounting options, there is dash and A pillar options. More info here: https://www.genosgarage.com/category/gauge

I would make sure you get a pyro, 0-30 boost, trans temp, and Isspro makes a 2-1/16 tach that matches the others. That will tell you all the basics.

I am able to rebuild the transmission. What kit or mods would make it stronger?

How much power you want it to hold? There are several kits but autos are not my specialty so I will refrain from giving advice on a topic I am not as versed in as I would like to be. (Not a BSer.....If I know, I will share. If I dont, I will tell you.)

 

[RSchwarzli]

To give an idea of what gage mounts look like for a gen 1. This is my 1990 interior.

#ad

 

[JR]

To give an idea of what gage mounts look like for a gen 1

A gen one....747! :-laf:-laf

 

[RSchwarzli]

A gen one....747! :-laf:-laf

:-laf:-laf

Oh the 90 isnt bad. It only has 13. The crew cab....thats the 747....it has 25.

 

[mwilson]

:-laf:-la

Oh the 90 isnt bad. It only has 13. The crew cab....thats the 747....it has 25.

JR, the crew cab is the one that he tows around on a trailer.......

He might as well take out the speedometer / odometer as it has no function or purpose and put some other gauge in its place....

Robert, having a Golden Corral in the State of Maine might cure my attitude....you took us to one on the way to Indiana and I have been a Golden Corral junkie ever since......all your fault....totally....:-laf

 

[light12pdr]

Efficiency and HP when it comes to diesels are the same thing. if you add larger exhaust, better intake system, change timing, etc; it will make more power. Example: At stock 160 hp, I did 16 mpg. At 400 HP, I did 28 MPG. Unlike a gasoline vehicle, diesels consume fuel based on load. So while you can make it run more efficient, it will technically create more power too. Not much by just intake and exhaust mind you. Like 5 hp maybe if the injection pump is left alone. But at that point, I would ask then what the point was in upgrading those two items as it wont make MPG difference really.

Wow, 28MPG with 400HP? Nice. So, if I leave the injection pump alone. Upgrading exhaust and Intake won't make much difference. While I don't mind extra power, I mind extra wear, tear and breakage. I had a thought. My exhaust is rusted and needs replacing. If I upgrade my intake and exhaust, add gauges and leave everything else alone, I would be safe . As time goes by, I could add modifications carefully once I learn what to do...and what NOT to do. What do you think?



Yup. Its the equivalent of a air fuel ratio meter for a gasoline engine with a performance meter, piston melter alert system, MPG gauge, turbo efficiency monitor, load calculator, ambient air temp probe, injector monitor, MAP sensor, and throttle position sensor all in one gauge. Yes that one gauge does all that. It literally tells you everything once you learn how to read it and the boost gauge together.


I wouldnt say a package is the right way to go. I would get a good brand, and choose the individual gauges you need. Isspro and Autometer are both trusted brands and offer gages to match the Gen 1 interior. Then for mounting options, there is dash and A pillar options. More info here: https://www.genosgarage.com/category/gauge

I would make sure you get a pyro, 0-30 boost, trans temp, and Isspro makes a 2-1/16 tach that matches the others. That will tell you all the basics.

Okay, I will definitely add gauges.


How much power you want it to hold? There are several kits but autos are not my specialty so I will refrain from giving advice on a topic I am not as versed in as I would like to be. (Not a BSer.....If I know, I will share. If I dont, I will tell you.)

Well, I think for now, I will keep things mostly stock until I figure out what I need to do

THANK YOU Very Much....

 

[RSchwarzli]

JR, the crew cab is the one that he tows around on a trailer.......

He might as well take out the speedometer / odometer as it has no function or purpose and put some other gauge in its place....

Robert, having a Golden Corral in the State of Maine might cure my attitude....you took us to one on the way to Indiana and I have been a Golden Corral junkie ever since......all your fault....totally....:-laf

LMAO. :-laf:-laf Well, yeah.... kinda. If you want to avoid sugar coating it. lol


Oh good! I am glad I was able to infect you with Golded Corral-itis. Welcome to the club. We dont have them in Ontario either so i feel your pain. But glad you enjoyed that lunch stop!

Wow, 28MPG with 400HP? Nice. So, if I leave the injection pump alone. Upgrading exhaust and Intake won't make much difference. While I don't mind extra power, I mind extra wear, tear and breakage.

Correct. Diesel engines are way more durable than gassers. So leaving the IP alone wont add anything that would be hard on the driveline. And short of the transmission, the rest is fine even with 300 HP. Its just you cant abuse it (aka, neutral drops, tug of wars, etc)

I had a thought. My exhaust is rusted and needs replacing. If I upgrade my intake and exhaust, add gauges and leave everything else alone, I would be safe . As time goes by, I could add modifications carefully once I learn what to do...and what NOT to do. What do you think?

My thought: If you can, get gauges installed first. That gives your stock baseline. THEN, replace your rotted exhaust. This will also show you that the modification provided xx benefits. Keep a log of what was done and what the result was and then you will have informed modifications. I promise you. Intake and exhaust wont be your last. And yes. Your transmission is safe with exhaust and intake.

And yes. As you learn, you will find that as long as you have a good transmission, and have done the maintenance of anything needing it, you can run it up to about 300 hp/600 ft lbs without too much effort or cost (like literally $100 once the intake and exhaust are done) and you will have a good reliable truck.

Okay, I will definitely add gauges.

When in doubt, always add gauges.

Well, I think for now, I will keep things mostly stock until I figure out what I need to do

That is the right attitude. Get your truck reliable, get the questionable stuff replaced, and then with yoru baeline, start playing and determining what you need. A 160 hp truck will tow your trailer. But it is a tough thing in hills. I found 300 is about where you need to be for 10-12,000 lbs. Anything on that is gravy. Thats why I run 450/1100 ft lbs. Sometimes those chevies need to be taught a lesson....