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Stanadyne Fuel Treatment

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Oil analysis results

revx diesel additive ?

Ive been trying this additive with acceptable results waiting for cold weather anti-gel trials. Was able to buy it in Montana if I wanted too drive to attain it (I DID NOT) Price wise its not all that much higher less than a buck if IRC at my Favorite New Hardware store in Indiana RUAL KING ;) AWSOME STORE!!!!

Here in Indiana we can buy ULSD with or without BIO additive (I CHOOSE NOT TO USE BIO)
also can buy various Gas Leaded 90 oct Recreation Gas, even have 110 oct Leaded gas (for use in stationary equipment) when I asked a guy filling Gas cans what that meant he shrugged his shoulders and said that his Hemi Cuda doesn't stay stationary long enough to find out :-laf

no auto inspections this a dream come true for enthusiastic owners.

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I have used it some. I have a company that rebuilds injector pumps and stuff and they give you a bottle with every rebuild. They are huge fans.
 
Ive been using the stanodyne for years. I guess it works ok. But Ive heard recently that the company that bought them is no longer making a quality product (not sure what they mean by that) I heard this from a very reputable source here in the seattle area who probably knows more about diesels than just about anyone else in the country. He now recommends a product made by caterpillar. I think its called alliant power ultraguard. Havent tried it yet. But when I called around, some of the places that sell stanadyne also sell the alliant power.
 
Looking at the MSDS', I notice Stanadyne Performance Formula and the Alliant Power Ultraguard share many of the same ingredients with roughly the same percentages, but the Ultraguard appears to have a few more items in it with a couple of trade secrets. I'm not being critical; I'm just curious. I've used Amalgamated TDR-WDA for a number of years with what I believe to be good results. Oh sure, I sometimes dump in a pint of 2-cycle (on the recommendation of Cerb and Ozy) to occasionally mix things up or quieten things down, but most of the time I add some TDR-WDA. I am unable to find a MSDS on the Amalgamated but believe I previously read it had some trade secret ingredients so I can't pick it apart.

I am subject to peer pressure so what convinced you to change, BIG? Stanadyne enjoys an excellent reputation with the injector techs, and no doubt the Ultraguard is probably just as good, if not better. Of course, recently Cummins put their stamp of approval on Power Service (probably based on availability and the fact that most of these additives are basically the same thing). The TDR-WDA is inconvenient when having to order from the formulator, but cheaper by the dose when ordered in the larger containers and you're not paying for the convenience of small bottles. Yes, I do believe Amalgamated runs comparative tests, has a strong QC program, and they're a large company with a good reputation that doesn't spend any money on advertising, promotions, or trade shows but rather concentrates their efforts on larger markets.

I need some help here.

- Ed
 
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Looking at the MSDS', I notice Stanadyne Performance Formula and the Alliant Power Ultraguard share many of the same ingredients with roughly the same percentages, but the Ultraguard appears to have a few more items in it with a couple of trade secrets. I'm not being critical; I'm just curious. I've used Amalgamated TDR-WDA for a number of years with what I believe to be good results. Oh sure, I sometimes dump in a pint of 2-cycle (on the recommendation of Cerb and Ozy) to occasionally mix things up or quieten things down, but most of the time I add some TDR-WDA. I am unable to find a MSDS on the Amalgamated but believe I previously read it had some trade secret ingredients so I can't pick it apart.

I am subject to peer pressure so what convinced you to change, BIG? Stanadyne enjoys an excellent reputation with the injector techs, and no doubt the Ultraguard is probably just as good, if not better. Of course, recently Cummins put their stamp of approval on Power Service (probably based on availability and the fact that most of these additives are basically the same thing). The TDR-WDA is inconvenient when having to order from the formulator, but cheaper by the dose when ordered in the larger containers and you're not paying for the convenience of small bottles. Yes, I do believe Amalgamated runs comparative tests, has a strong QC program, and they're a large company with a good reputation that doesn't spend any money on advertising, promotions, or trade shows but rather concentrates their efforts on larger markets.

I need some help here.

- Ed



In Montana I used two kinds of Amalgamated, one that was for lube purposes only & their winter anti gel. I was out of one and the other wasn't far behind. Ive heard good reviews about Standadyne and thought I'd give it a shot. For Lube purposes I can get pure BIO but will still only it use when the weather allows.
 
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I began drinking the Stanadyne PF Kool-aid in July 2003 when I picked my Ram up and have been sipping off it every single fillup since. Any performance claims by Stanadyne, I cannot attest to. The cold weather claims I can with passion. I live in ND and the Ram is pretty much only used from April through October at which time she gets parked in the heated garage over the winter months. Last winter I needed to run her down the interstate in sub-zero ambient temperatures. I had #2 fuel on board and a slightly larger than normal dose of PF. I picked up a bottle of 911 and a spare filter and headed out on the highway. She never missed a beat. 200 mile round trip in sub-zero ambient temp and right back into the heated garage. So if no other reason than that, I run Stanadyne PF every single fillup. One of those things that helps me sleep at night.
 
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Dave, I had a few of those temps by the time we came back to Az. for the winter. The truck never skipped a beat with the amalgamated although I did notice the fuel pressure gauge was a little sluggish at first start :-laf. Stay warm.

Dave
 
I do think Stanadyne changed their formula. I used to run it, and it was very strong smelling. I didn't use it for a couple of years, and recently saw it in my local Autozone. That was new as in the past it was not sold through the major retailers. So I bought a gallon. It hardly has any smell at all anymore.

So I got to thinking that they watered down the formula to make it smell better for consumers and got the product into the major retailers.

Now that I read above that the company was bought in the last couple of years it makes total sense.

Thoughts?
 
I use 8oz with every fill up.
Normally don’t let tank get to far below 1/2 tank before filling up.

Also a couple times a month I pour in 16oz Schaeffers diesel treat.
 
Since March: I have changed from stanadyne to 8oz FPPF Lubricity Plus & 4oz Schaeffers SoyShield during the summer months.
 
Stanadyne, as well as many others, changed their formulations around 2011 due the DPF regulations. Similar to how fuel technology has changed and engine lubrication oil technology had to change.

In most all of them, the "magic" is the 2-Butoxyethanol, better know in layman chemist terms as ethylene glycol monobutyl ether.

It's a surfactant. Slippery. "lubricity formula".......
 
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I do believe 20% bio diesel is ideal for the lubricity needs as well as the cleaning of the injectors & fuel system.

I have read where all diesel now contains some % of bio.
All the local pumps have had the bio stickers removed. So I have No idea what % of Bio I am pumping into my tank if any at all.
Thus the main reason for me starting to use a bit more Schaeffers SoyShield into the additive rotation.

Once every 6 months I will run 24oz of Schaeffers Neutra through the fuel system.
Stanadyne (Lubricity/Performance) will still be used when the 64oz jugs are found on discount.

SyN Disclaimer: Thousands upon thousands say or comment “Diesel Additives are not necessary or needed & a Total Waste of $$$”.
My only response is Thousands upon Thousands of these same Fine Folks (Smoke - Dip - Drink - Do Drugs) which I feel is totally not necessary & 8X the waste of $$$!
Same is said for spending thousands of dollars are huge Wheels/Tires/Lift Kits/Programmers & I can go on & on & on. Bottom Line is NONE of it is totally necessary. It is only owner preference - Nothing More!

My Diesel Fuel Fetish cost is No where near the total cost of the 4 nasty habits I mentioned above. So in my eyes the argument is totally ridiculous!

Good Luck to ALL & have a Great Safe Week!

 
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I do believe 20% bio diesel is ideal for the lubricity needs as well as the cleaning of the injectors & fuel system.

I have read where all diesel now contains some % of bio.
All the local pumps have had the bio stickers removed. So I have No idea what % of Bio I am pumping into my tank if any at all.
Thus the main reason for me starting to use a bit more Schaeffers SoyShield into the additive rotation.

Once every 6 months I will run 2oz of Schaeffers Neutra through the fuel system.

At least in Indiana THATS NOT EXACTLY TRUE!!! up until about a month or so ago Costco Diesel was ordered STRAIGHT ULSD. I asked an attendant if they added additive? he said COULD BE!!! when I added my Standyne to the aux tank ( I fill the aux tank and run off the transferred fuel intro the primary tank) He came out and pointed to a truck that pulled in to drop. I went & introduced myself and HE WAS UNLOADING ADDITIVE FOR DIESEL!! Since then Ive noticed that the Costco Diesel pumps say "COULD CONTAIN UP TO 5% BIO" This is one weird state in that you can get just about any fuel you want at one station & Brand name or the other. I went to a Sunoco station for some K1 next to the K1 tank was "102 Octane LEADED GASOLINE for use in stationary off road equipment" a truck pulled in the guy had several 10 gal jeep cans, I asked what gives with that? he said it was intended for water pumps, generators, etc, etc. I asked what he was putting it in? he laughed when he said a Hemi Cuda BUT IT DONT STAY STATIONARY LONG!!! at $9.00 a gallon I suppose NOT!! Through work (if I'm near the Rack) I fuel with Straight ULSD and fill my additive can with 100% BIO and mix it myself. Ive read that 100% BIO is the BEST for lube. During the winter months ALL BIO is suspended as it gels or as these folks call it "Clouds" so its a mix of #2 &#1 to get the gel or cloud point desired. #1 is also used as aircraft De-icer!!!
 
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Good info Mr Nasty!

Question: What type of auxiliary tank do you run?
Is it gravity fed?
I am really thinking about doing this with some type of simple filter between both tanks! I really only need a 25-30gal tank which gravity feeds into the primary tank.
I haven’t witnessed any Set ups for a 2017 Ram.
Also: I would much rather just fill the auxiliary up instead of the primary. That dang spring loaded flapper design is already my worst enemy.
 
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I have a Aero Tank from when we lived in Commiefornia they were in Corona CA. 65 gal I have a Baldwin Filter/water seperator between the aux tank & primary tank. then through the Airdog 100 with Fleetgaurd filter & water separator sent to the motor where it goes through the factory filter then through a Cat fuel filter before entering the motor. Its a lot of filtration but the cost of fuel pumps & injectors being as costly as they are I'd rather have to much than not enough. Being in the Petroleum industry I've seen first hand some of the xxxx that goes thought a 30 mic or larger pump filter and into your tank.
 
Im Sorry I'm in Miami FL at the present time trying to get a few rack problems fixed and forgot to say that the transfer of fuel from Aux tank to primary is via a Carter 12V fuel pump that fills the primary trough a T in the OEM filler neck, I like this because even though the Carter is on a timer if it should malfunction it would just keep cycling fuel rather than over fill the primary.

I like the 65 gal aux tank the OEM is somewhere near 35 or 38 gal I can make two full transfers of fuel giving me three OEM tanks worth of milage before needing to refill, I kind of dislike stopping.
 
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