180 Amp Altenator or 220 Amp Altenator?

[Newsa]

This is an old thread, but I'll add to it. As others have pointed out the older Dodge/Rams had 134 amp alternators which provided more than enough power to service my needs. I recently ordered a new truck and although the 220 amp alternator was only a 100 dollar upgrade I decided against it. My rationale was if ever broken down in a remote area with alternator failure, it might be easier to locate a much more common 180 amp over a 220 amp.

THE MIND IS A DANGEROUS THING

The mind can be a dangerous thing when you (or I) think more (or bigger) is better.

I bought mine off the lot with some nice factory rebates as they were unloading 2013's to make room for the 2014's.

There was a recall on the 220 amp ones. They probably are not better

 

[jray]

The mind can be a dangerous thing when you (or I) think more (or bigger) is better.

One could write a book about all the failed “BOMBS”.

 

[moparnut72]

I've got a question. My truck has the snow plow package which includes the 220 amp alternator. I got the alternator recall and had the alternator replaced. How do I know that I got another 220 amp alternator? I don't need that big an alternator but I paid for it. I would also guess that a bigger alternator would be mainly coasting and thus last longer.
kk

 

[jray]

How do I know that I got another 220 amp alternator? I don't need that big an alternator but I paid for it.
kk

The only way I know would be to have someone with an amp meter test it.

Just thought of this: It might also prove useful to visit your local auto parts store and see I they would allow you to visually inspect the two for any external differences. See if one appears visually identical to yours. Of course they would need to be rebuilt or new OEM parts. There are a lot of new Chinese alternator's out there that are not likely to compare directly to OEM. Again it's just a guess on my part that this might actually help you.

 

[seafish]

I've got a question. My truck has the snow plow package which includes the 220 amp alternator. I got the alternator recall and had the alternator replaced. How do I know that I got another 220 amp alternator?
kk

I see no reason why they would not have replaced the alternator with another 220 given that the recall was only on certain 220 amp alternators and they were using other oem 220 alternators for the replacements.

That being said, you can the dealer who did the recall and have them double check the part # out the alt that they installed.
Or you could just check it yourself.

 

[Newsa]

I think it (220 amp) just gets your truck out of "battery saver mode" quicker. If you're not in BSM, the voltage and amperage are likely just regulated to what it needs and 180 vs 220 isn't all that different

BSM has only happened to me once when the truck sat for a week in sub zero (-15 to -20 °F) temps and only made a few short trips because we were on vacation and needed groceries and were visiting family.

When we left central illinois ( on interstate), we were in battery saver mode for about 25 minutes. The truck was running the grid heaters, fuel filter heaters, and we were running defroster and everything. Once everything got warmed up, the battery saver mode went away. Probably would have been in BSM longer with a 180 amp alternator.

 

[kthaxton]

This is an old thread, but I'll add to it. As others have pointed out the older Dodge/Rams had 134 amp alternators which provided more than enough power to service my needs. I recently ordered a new truck and although the 220 amp alternator was only a 100 dollar upgrade I decided against it. My rationale was if ever broken down in a remote area with alternator failure, it might be easier to locate a much more common 180 amp over a 220 amp.

Unless there is some physical difference (which I doubt) I don't see a reason why you couldn't just replace a 220 with a 180....at least in the past there wasn't a reason you couldn't do a direct swap to a downsized alternators. Obviously you wouldn't want to upsize without increasing output wire gauge.

Of course, now that I've said that, sag or bob will come in and tell us that the compute is expecting to see x amount of amperage under x condition yada yada yada....damn computers.

That said, I doubt 220 amp alternators are uncommon.

 

[Newsa]

Unless there is some physical difference (which I doubt) I don't see a reason why you couldn't just replace a 220 with a 180....at least in the past there wasn't a reason you couldn't do a direct swap to a downsized alternators. Obviously you wouldn't want to upsize without increasing output wire gauge.

Of course, now that I've said that, sag or bob will come in and tell us that the compute is expecting to see x amount of amperage under x condition yada yada yada....damn computers.

That said, I doubt 220 amp alternators are uncommon.

As finicky as the computers are, I think at idle if the computer was expecting to see 65-75 amps and it only saw 60 amps from a smaller alternator, I expect it would throw a code. The smaller alternatord have fewer windings. And have an expected output as a function of RPM. So the computer is going to expect a certain amp at a engine speed.

Under recall, FCA doesn't let the dealer put the wrong part on. And I doubt the dealer service dept would take a chance with that gamble.

FCA was very careful with the SCR recalls and I think they are with all recalls.

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

I think it (220 amp) just gets your truck out of "battery saver mode" quicker. If you're not in BSM, the voltage and amperage are likely just regulated to what it needs and 180 vs 220 isn't all that different

BSM has only happened to me once when the truck sat for a week in sub zero (-15 to -20 °F) temps and only made a few short trips because we were on vacation and needed groceries and were visiting family.

When we left central illinois ( on interstate), we were in battery saver mode for about 25 minutes. The truck was running the grid heaters, fuel filter heaters, and we were running defroster and everything. Once everything got warmed up, the battery saver mode went away. Probably would have been in BSM longer with a 180 amp alternator.

Bingo! Might even run cooler temps under same load. Better longevity maybe?

 

[kthaxton]

As finicky as the computers are, I think at idle if the computer was expecting to see 65-75 amps and it only saw 60 amps from a smaller alternator, I expect it would throw a code. The smaller alternatord have fewer windings. And have an expected output as a function of RPM. So the computer is going to expect a certain amp at a engine speed.

Under recall, FCA doesn't let the dealer put the wrong part on. And I doubt the dealer service dept would take a chance with that gamble.

FCA was very careful with the SCR recalls and I think they are with all recalls.

Alternators don't work like that. They only output what the vehicle needs up to its maximum.

If the vehicle is only using 75 amps, that is all the alternator will produce, regardless if it is 180, 220 or 10,000 amps.

 

[jhenderson]

Unless there is some physical difference (which I doubt) I don't see a reason why you couldn't just replace a 220 with a 180....at least in the past there wasn't a reason you couldn't do a direct swap to a downsized alternators. Obviously you wouldn't want to upsize without increasing output wire gauge.

Of course, now that I've said that, sag or bob will come in and tell us that the compute is expecting to see x amount of amperage under x condition yada yada yada....damn computers.

That said, I doubt 220 amp alternators are uncommon.

I think you’ll find the wiring harness is the same regardless of which alternator your truck comes with. That’s why so many replace the main charge wire with one of higher capacity.

 

[Newsa]

Alternators don't work like that. They only output what the vehicle needs up to its maximum.

If the vehicle is only using 75 amps, that is all the alternator will produce, regardless if it is 180, 220 or 10,000 amps.

But the vehicle might be calling for 100 amps because accessories are running and it needs to charge the battery. If the vehicle is idling it might only be able to produce 75 amps even though the vehicle is asking for 100 amps. I see what you're saying l, but I'm not wrong saying that a higher RPM will produce more amps (up to what the vehicle needs).

So the computer would only throw a code if the vehicle was trying to draw more from the alternator than the alternator can provide. But I don't know if the computer is expecting a specific amperage at a specific RPM and if it would throw a code or not.

 

[Newsa]

I think you’ll find the wiring harness is the same regardless of which alternator your truck comes with. That’s why so many replace the main charge wire with one of higher capacity.

Sooo, the wiring harness is the same for the trucks with the dual alternators?

Another forum says that the charge wire is different for the 220 amp equipped trucks