oil filter cutter

[GrantP]

Does anyone have a recommendation on a good oil filter cutter? I have a Chevy 350 in an 82 Jeep that I think is coming apart and would love to see what the filter has in it. I'd also like to cut open the aux fuel filter in my truck too for inspection. Thanks in advance.

 

[Wayne M.]

I’ve used a few over the years. I have caterpillar one available at my job that works great.
A simple search at Summit Racing showed this.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900510
It looks just like the Cat one, and goes up to 5.5”. It’s a good investment.

 

[TConver]

I like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005S39PWS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[GrantP]

Thanks guys, I started this thread because I really wasn't sure whether I could get away with a $35 filter cutter that's a piece of crap or is it worth it to spend $70 for a tool I'll have the rest of my life. Maybe I just answered my own question.

 

[Wayne M.]

GrantP, if you go to Summit, you’ll see about a half dozen models of cutters in all price ranges. If I had to choose one, I’d pick the longacre. That’s a company who makes a lot of neat race car tools and goodies.

 

[GrantP]

Thank you gentlemen, longacre it is then. I need to order some other stuff from Summit anyway. I appreciate the help.

 

[TCDiesel]

A lot less Messy then traditional filter cutters.
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[GrantP]

Got the longacre from summit, it is a very high quality tool and I was impressed. I wasn't so impressed with what I found in the filter though. I guess this engine is coming out.

 

[JR]

What are you seeing with this motor that prompted an inspection of the filter?

This is the same Jeep you recently made a long distance trip with?

 

[Wayne M.]

Have you done any sampling?

 

[GrantP]

What are you seeing with this motor that prompted an inspection of the filter?

This is the same Jeep you recently made a long distance trip with?

Yes it's the same Jeep. I think the fact that it sat for so many years has killed it. It did make it about 2k miles though. It just very suddenly started to vibrate and now there's a knock/rattle that sounds like a rod bearing that is gone. There is a ton of "glitter" in the oil drain pan, it's coming out.

 

[GrantP]

Have you done any sampling?

I did send a sample to Blackstone. It wasn't as bad as I would have thought but it was pretty ugly. The rod knock started just after I sent the sample so that was probably a waste.

 

[TCDiesel]

The sodium is what kill the engine with today coolant, lube with high level of CAL ( Your Lube does) it creates abrasives that chew up bearings in short order. I don't use lubes with CAL above 800PPM

 

[Wayne M.]

I totally forgot what the OP was, so I thought we were considering a Cummins here. Now back on track.
May I ask what oil you were using in that engine?
These old flat lifter engines don’t do well with the new oils. Add the fact that oxidation probably happened during the long sleep, and the proper awakening (a 2000 RPM warmup to “reseat things”) probably wasn’t done combined to get this mouse motor in a bad way.
At least a cheap and fun to build engine is at stake here.
So what’s the plan now?

 

[GrantP]

Yes, thankfully it's not my Cummins! Frankly the Jeep is just a toy so if it's down for a while it's not hurting anybody.

I don't know what oil was in it, it's whatever the shop used when they got it running again. But to your point Wayne, I think that engine should have been primed prior to starting it and I doubt it was. The engine had ~20k on it and ran perfectly before going dormant for ~20 years. Now it's toast.

I'm debating what to do with the engine. The crank is already 20 under (and probably trash now anyway), the bore is 30 over. I know I can buy new rotating assemblies for it for cheap so as long as there's no issue with the block that's probably the route I will go. If the block is bad (doubt it) then I'll probably go the new Goodwrench 350 crate route. Buying a completely new engine is tempting either way.

Once the temps drop back down to something tolerable in my garage I'll start throwing wrenches at it.

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm debating what to do with the engine. The crank is already 20 under (and probably trash now anyway), the bore is 30 over. I know I can buy new rotating assemblies for it for cheap so as long as there's no issue with the block that's probably the route I will go. If the block is bad (doubt it) then I'll probably go the new Goodwrench 350 crate route. Buying a completely new engine is tempting either way.

Once the temps drop back down to something tolerable in my garage I'll start throwing wrenches at it.

Indeed long blocks could be had in so many HP ratings in just as wide of price range. So the next questions are, do you want to build it or buy it? And what’s the goal for the engine? Mild, wild, or somewhere in the middle?

 

[GrantP]

Indeed long blocks could be had in so many HP ratings in just as wide of price range. So the next questions are, do you want to build it or buy it? And what’s the goal for the engine? Mild, wild, or somewhere in the middle?

Build or buy, that is the question. It would be a lot faster to buy and just do an R&R over a weekend, but then it's just someone else's 350. Either way it will be a mild build with a focus on low end torque and a smooth idle for off road use. The Jeep has a NV4500 in it so I don't have (or want) the luxury of a slushbox that would tolerate more aggressive cams on rough roads without stalling. The power to weight ratio is already ridiculous and it has 4.10 gears, it's not like it was underpowered.

That said, I have two teenage sons. It would be dumb luck if they could tell a connecting rod from a crankshaft but they do have some interest. On the flip side they can fix my iphone in seconds. I think doing a rebuild with them would be a fun father/sons project. I'm not going to learn anything new but they sure will. That might just be reason enough to go the rebuild route, then the three of us can point to it and say "we did that".

 

[Wayne M.]

I totally and absolutely support the “get the young involved” route. I think you have a plan.

 

[jhenderson]

It’s pretty hard to beat a GM crate engine for the money. Pick your hp and go. Some really good deals from Scoggins/ Dicky and Jegs.

 

[GrantP]

It’s pretty hard to beat a GM crate engine for the money. Pick your hp and go. Some really good deals from Scoggins/ Dicky and Jegs.

I'm leaning that way, after doing some math it looks like my rebuild will cost about as much as a brand new (not rebuilt) GM crate motor. I'm still weighing the options and not in a hurry.

Scoggins/Summit/Jegs all come in around the $2100 mark for the "Goodwrench" 350. Maybe Santa Claus will show up with a new engine. In the meantime I'll start pulling this engine out and try to figure out exactly what failed. I'm sure I'll have some gory photos to share.