Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Blah Blah Blah. Don't lug the motor. Sounds like some ruckus too Me. I drive a 18 speed logging truck. gear roll over happens when your in too low of a gear and a given wheel speed when the harmonics of the engine rattle through the entire drive train you either have to start rolling of the throttle or rev up and pick a lower gear.
I own a 97 ram 2500 cummins nv4500. I recently pushed the carrier bearing out of the bushing because the spline was holding up so when the differential goes up or down the busing was being stressed until it finally failed. I took the driveshaft out. Looked at the damper ring on the yoke it was wiggling quite a bit but the rubber didn't seem bad. it was a little damaged from riding against the output of the transfer case for about 500 feet though. I decided to remove the metal ring reading peoples comments about how it is only designed for torsional vibrations and it doesn't balance the driveshaft and that if it falls off it only causes problems.
The problem is that I like to run My truck at low rpm. I don't see anything wrong with it other then these horrible vibrations in direct drive. The point is that with that damper between the drive shaft and the rest of the drive train what is that thing actually doing? Is it just reducing noise coming though the drive shaft or is it actually reducing those vibrations throughout the entire drivetrain? I noticed that once I removed that damper I cannot lug after shifting from into 4th around 900rpm and slowly move up until I hit 1000-1100 and then finally give it a little more. I now have to rev the motor too 1700rpm and land 4th at 1000 rpm on flat ground and cant even gain speed at that rpm without torsional vibrations causing the driveshaft to ring out or possibly other parts?. With the damper on the yoke I could be on a hill and bring the engine up to 1600 in 3rd shift into 4th and be at 900 without any noise just had to bring it up slowly without putting too fuel/load on the engine and no vibration. 1000 and above you can giver more. I'm just wondering if a fluid damper or a super damper would eliminate those vibrations. You cant buy the yoke with damper anymore mainly because people keep run their motor at peak torque rpm's. As long as you are not full throttle or loaded you should be able to run this motor at 1100 rpm all day long. I get the ever so slightest ringing sound probably coming from the drive shaft at 1100 going up a hill. It is very very faint. Go below and the difference is much greater in comparison to having the damper. I could roll off the throttle for blocks from 1250 down to 800 rpm going up a hill before downshifting into 3rd to gain speed back up to 900 rpm. lol. now I have to roll off much quicker going up hills or I get that vibration.
Fill the driveshaft full of oil? fluid damper, or a super damper for the crank? what about HD single piece driveshaft? It would be heavier and absorb more vibration? What do you think will smooth the lugging stairclimbing machine out? I live where their are hills pretty much everywhere. 3rd is My friend but I want 4th like before or better. I only use OD for the highway or coasting down hills speeds sometimes.
I own a 97 ram 2500 cummins nv4500. I recently pushed the carrier bearing out of the bushing because the spline was holding up so when the differential goes up or down the busing was being stressed until it finally failed. I took the driveshaft out. Looked at the damper ring on the yoke it was wiggling quite a bit but the rubber didn't seem bad. it was a little damaged from riding against the output of the transfer case for about 500 feet though. I decided to remove the metal ring reading peoples comments about how it is only designed for torsional vibrations and it doesn't balance the driveshaft and that if it falls off it only causes problems.
The problem is that I like to run My truck at low rpm. I don't see anything wrong with it other then these horrible vibrations in direct drive. The point is that with that damper between the drive shaft and the rest of the drive train what is that thing actually doing? Is it just reducing noise coming though the drive shaft or is it actually reducing those vibrations throughout the entire drivetrain? I noticed that once I removed that damper I cannot lug after shifting from into 4th around 900rpm and slowly move up until I hit 1000-1100 and then finally give it a little more. I now have to rev the motor too 1700rpm and land 4th at 1000 rpm on flat ground and cant even gain speed at that rpm without torsional vibrations causing the driveshaft to ring out or possibly other parts?. With the damper on the yoke I could be on a hill and bring the engine up to 1600 in 3rd shift into 4th and be at 900 without any noise just had to bring it up slowly without putting too fuel/load on the engine and no vibration. 1000 and above you can giver more. I'm just wondering if a fluid damper or a super damper would eliminate those vibrations. You cant buy the yoke with damper anymore mainly because people keep run their motor at peak torque rpm's. As long as you are not full throttle or loaded you should be able to run this motor at 1100 rpm all day long. I get the ever so slightest ringing sound probably coming from the drive shaft at 1100 going up a hill. It is very very faint. Go below and the difference is much greater in comparison to having the damper. I could roll off the throttle for blocks from 1250 down to 800 rpm going up a hill before downshifting into 3rd to gain speed back up to 900 rpm. lol. now I have to roll off much quicker going up hills or I get that vibration.
Fill the driveshaft full of oil? fluid damper, or a super damper for the crank? what about HD single piece driveshaft? It would be heavier and absorb more vibration? What do you think will smooth the lugging stairclimbing machine out? I live where their are hills pretty much everywhere. 3rd is My friend but I want 4th like before or better. I only use OD for the highway or coasting down hills speeds sometimes.
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. Can't do that without the damper. Just sounds like metal hitting itself at that rpm now. I read the other part of that driveshaft return policy. States about manufacture defects. I just want to know for sure before getting one if it does make a world of difference vs the old one. If I decide to tow heavy the wheels don't like to move up mountains with huge loads pulled behind them unless your in the right gear so towing up a hill loading up the drive train could cause alot of torsional vibrations in direct drive. I know automatics operate 1250rpm and above but the manuals are better cause they don't gear down like morons hopped on crystal. I want a 6 inch driveshaft with 2 super dampers so I can Idle up a 14% grade in direct drive without vibrations. why don't people make this stuff?
