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Do Easier Mods Exist?

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Good morning all,

I come from the world of gasoline and am pretty familiar with bolt on mods in that realm, but not sure if(at all) diesel engines differ in terms of modifications. I'm looking to start with some easier mods in terms of fuel efficiency and performance for my 2014 2500 6.7L. I've already purchased an S&B Cold Air Intake, and not sure if there are a lot of easy options for upgrades before I get into tuners and such. Forgive the uneducated approach to this, just not sure where to start after a good deal of failed Googling. Thanks!
 
Will open your wallet up and throw away your money! You just did that on the S&B Cold Air intake! The best cold air intake you have is the stock one on your truck already. I am running 60HP/120lb-ft torque over stock and still have the original air box on the engine. The after market air filters do not filter the air enough to prevent contaminates from entering your engine air intake which could damage the compressor wheel in the turbo charger (pitting). Damage can also occur to the cylinder walls and other wear items do to the contaminates in the air. Filtration is a key to a happy life on your engine.

There are a few bolt on items that will work for your truck but they do not help performance at all. One is a deep-dish Mag-Hytec transmission oil pan will add extra fluid to the transmission and provide a drain plug for the trans oil for future oil changes. Another item is a Mag-Hytec Rear Differential cover this too adds extra oil, provides a drain plug and a magnetic dip stick for checking fluid level. You can also add an engine oil pan drain valve to help in draining oil from your engine.

Now here is the scare part of diesel performance it is very expensive depending on what you want to do and how much HP/TQ you want. Once you start it is a very slippery slop and may never stop.

In 2009, I spent close to $1,800 for my mods and I did not do that much as far as HP/TQ on my engine. For your model of truck and depending on performance level you could be spending between $2,000 and $5,000. Low HP/TQ increase and you do a delete this could set you back around $2,000. If you go close to 500HP level than you will need to fire ring the head and install ARP head studs along with your tuner and monitor plus a new exhaust system.
 
I understand and appreciate the time you took in responding. I was more leaning towards fuel efficiency improvements over raw HP/torque improvements... ASIDE from the ole "light on the foot" fuel efficiency improvement
 
Emissions delete will do what you want but it is a slippery slope. If you have inspection/tasting it is only an option if you want to hassle with reinstalling at test time.
 
Emissions delete will do what you want but it is a slippery slope. If you have inspection/tasting it is only an option if you want to hassle with reinstalling at test time.

I read that after 12 or 13, deleting wasn't effective in terms of fuel efficiency. Is it still and the gains are simply not as noticable as a 12 or earlier?
 
For us truck nuts we all want more, power, fuel economy etc, but really that truck can hold it own without after market. I pulled a 18,000 lb 5th wheel for 17 months through all of the lower 48 states of this Fine country and never needed anything to get that job done. Never needed more hp. I believe in its stock form it works well. Others will argue, but I know I still made every steep grade, and never had an issue with passing or maintain speed. The truck comes from the factory ready to pull hard. Just my 2 Pennies .
 
For us truck nuts we all want more, power, fuel economy etc, but really that truck can hold it own without after market. I pulled a 18,000 lb 5th wheel for 17 months through all of the lower 48 states of this Fine country and never needed anything to get that job done. Never needed more hp. I believe in its stock form it works well. Others will argue, but I know I still made every steep grade, and never had an issue with passing or maintain speed. The truck comes from the factory ready to pull hard. Just my 2 Pennies .

I absolutely agree with you based on my experience so far... i just have it in my nature to mod things and squeeze everything out I can, although i also understand sometimes things are better left alone.
 
I assumed you joined this Forum for it's VAST knowledge. I highly suggest you return your air intake as it will not help in the least!!! Your truck already has a cold air intake system.

Tuners??? Delete??? Have at it if you are willing to loose your warranty. If they tell you the tuner won't be detected they are only telling you the partial truth. FACT is Chrysler is tired of paying out warranty claims. FACT Chrysler WILL detect you had SOMETHING on your truck and WILL deny wou warranty coverage.

I tow 33-35k combined and have ZERO reason to do anything as it simply does the job it's advertised to do.

Repeat after me. "I AM MY OWN WARRANTY STATION"

Welcome aboard!
 
I assumed you joined this Forum for it's VAST knowledge. I highly suggest you return your air intake as it will not help in the least!!! Your truck already has a cold air intake system.

Tuners??? Delete??? Have at it if you are willing to loose your warranty. If they tell you the tuner won't be detected they are only telling you the partial truth. FACT is Chrysler is tired of paying out warranty claims. FACT Chrysler WILL detect you had SOMETHING on your truck and WILL deny wou warranty coverage.

I tow 33-35k combined and have ZERO reason to do anything as it simply does the job it's advertised to do.

Repeat after me. "I AM MY OWN WARRANTY STATION"

Welcome aboard!

I did join this community for its knowledgebase and appreciate all of it thus far, as I appreciate your insight. Side question, what sort of warranties are intact for 105k miles?
 
Leave it alone. I've never considered fuel economy as a major consideration, I bought a truck that weighs nearly 4 tons with all the capability I want and I'll happily pay the price at the pump. I'm still in the high teens for MPG and have a cruising range longer than my bladder will last.

Once you start modifying it becomes a slippery slope like others have mentioned, I have gone down that path before. Just maintain it and enjoy it, it will treat you well.
 
If there would be an easy and cheap way to improve the fuel economy - you can be 120% sure that Cummins/RAM would have done it already.

You destroyed your fuel economy by up to 10% with mounting the MT Tires and Lift Kit to the Truck.
If Fuel Economy is the main goal then the truck should stay totally OEM and that includes tires and so on.
 
If you have 105K on your truck you are pretty out of warranty so you can really do what you want without repercussions unless you do a delete and live in a state that does emission testing. I get what your saying, you want your truck stand out, get as good of MPG as you can but you don't need a firebreather. Do research on the various tuners out there and how they get their performance. Many rely on boosting rail pressure which isn't necessarily a good thing for longevity so if something sounds too good to be true chances are it is. These trucks MPG are really affected by how you drive them, they are big n heavy and if you accelerate fast and keep going up to 80 mph, just know that your mileage will reflect it. They are great trucks and you will learn alot from sites like this one.
 
Please run out to your truck (not walk) and reinstall your stock air filter system! That snake oil filter you've got in there now will only harm your truck, make maintenance a pain to service and you will gain absolutely nothing but the lighter wallet. Not much will help the fuel economy that is worth the upfront cost of doing so, and at the cost of reliability. Been there, done that two trucks ago.
 
The S&B intake will likely lower fuel economy, not raise it. Unless you need it for a larger turbo, the stock air intake is what you should run.
 
I did join this community for its knowledgebase and appreciate all of it thus far, as I appreciate your insight. Side question, what sort of warranties are intact for 105k miles?


HA, no warranty unless you have purchased one past 100k. Have fun! Just hate seeing people wasting money.
 
Good morning all,

I come from the world of gasoline and am pretty familiar with bolt on mods in that realm, I've already purchased an S&B Cold Air Intake, Thanks!

Naturally asperated gasser and turbo diesel are apples and oranges. The first thing to do on a gasser, is intake mods, so absolutely no restriction is where we start. Not so on a turbo. At full power they will overcome any slight restriction with no side affects. They literally have the vacuum necessary to collapse the entire intake system if it were completely plugged.

Custom mods/truck personalization is a good thing. I would go ahead and do whatever suits your fancy/wallet. The best fuel mileage, is the right foot on any vehicle and is free but not necessarily fun :D
 
C'mon on ...those Aftermarket satanic companies love to promote mileage gains on just about every everything from tail lamps to Injectors, A sucker is typing every second.

Hey, My Banks intake did help the lag some, It also increased the noise, It is easier to change out the Oil filter now thru the wheel well.

Most of the problems related to 2013+ Bluetech engines are related to poor connections... I have lost count on how many owners have took My advice to Dia-electric every connection on the truck Engine / Exhaust that have eliminated their problems

Have someone with the ability to place the truck into Stationary De-soot from time to time depending on use and your turbo and exhaust last years into the 100s of 1000s of miles.
 
C'mon on ...those Aftermarket satanic companies love to promote mileage gains on just about every everything from tail lamps to Injectors, A sucker is typing every second.

Hey, My Banks intake did help the lag some, It also increased the noise, It is easier to change out the Oil filter now thru the wheel well.

Most of the problems related to 2013+ Bluetech engines are related to poor connections... I have lost count on how many owners have took My advice to Dia-electric every connection on the truck Engine / Exhaust that have eliminated their problems

Have someone with the ability to place the truck into Stationary De-soot from time to time depending on use and your turbo and exhaust last years into the 100s of 1000s of miles.
Non-stationary (ie mobile) de-soots are more fun. :D

Nothing like hearing the 6 cylinders and 408 cubic inches working in harmony with a large load behind it.
 
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