Replacing ignition switch: anything to watch out for?

[nibroc]

that would be a very big job^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Ozymandias]

@Crunch
There are enough Tumblers in the Set to even rebuild the Dorman 3x with new Tumblers if needed.
Mine works flawless like it is a new cars feeling. Nice.

 

[EDankievitch]

I doubt your issue is the Lock assy more than likely it's the switch that attaches to the lock.

 

[Crunch]

@Crunch
There are enough Tumblers in the Set to even rebuild the Dorman 3x with new Tumblers if needed.
Mine works flawless like it is a new cars feeling. Nice.

That's good to know! That $62 lock cylinder is looking better all the time.

I doubt your issue is the Lock assy more than likely it's the switch that attaches to the lock.

Well, I've already replaced the ignition switch, and even went back in to recheck it a week later. As others have mentioned, it could be the wiring harness that connects to the back of the switch. But I tend to doubt it, as the harness looks to be in good shape and there are no crimped or crushed wires that I can see. What makes me think it is the lock cylinder is that when I jiggle the key when it is inserted, and while the door is open the chime commences to chiming. Let go of the key and it quits chiming. That leads me to believe that the tumblers also provide a ground for the circuit, or at least nudge something else that completes the ground when the key pushes the tumblers out as it is inserted. How else could the door chime work?

 

[Ozymandias]

There is a pin at the end of the lock cylinder that is pushed in with the key, that makes the chime.
Check your old electric switch for it. Small pin right in the middle of the turning unit.

 

[Crunch]

There is a pin at the end of the lock cylinder that is pushed in with the key, that makes the chime.
Check your old electric switch for it. Small pin right in the middle of the turning unit.

The old switch has been tossed out, but I remember seeing the pin. The existing lock cylinder has about 1/8" of back and forth springy play to it, which probably keeps it from pushing in the pin unless I am holding it in. This afternoon I found out that the "fuel leak" I was tracking down turned out be fuel in the crankcase that was getting on the underside of the truck via the breather tube. Most likely a cracked injector, so guess which job goes to the top of the list?