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billeted tappet cover with blown by connection

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There may be some out there that don't, but I don't recall ever seeing one. All I recall normally have two places to either screw fittings in or plug.

-Scott
 
Why doesan't it need one...currently there is one on the front cover that you have to bypass and collect someplace else...

The oem is fine, I have a 3' hose on mine routed about a foot high then back down. Not sure what you mean "bypass it".
 
Reading your other post about pulling And resealing your engine it sounds like your wanting to eliminate the one in the front cover and vent through your tappet cover. They do make a tappet cover with a breather for a 24 valve and VP44. Most are for the P Pump conversion so make sure you get the right one.

Here's an example.

https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-p...t-tappet-cover-w-breathers.html#/product/9382


What are you going to do with the breather in the front?
Im almost certain A 12 valve cover won't work on a 24 valve, the P Pump is much larger and heavier than the VP44. I've not seen a front cover for a 24 valve (no CCV) but that doesn't mean one doesnt exist. It would be alot of extra expense, like Nick says a hose routed down is much simpler:)
 
If you are not looking to spend $300 on a new cover I've seen a few guys that have modified the stock cover (drilled and tapped the top, must be careful when selecting where to drill so as not to interfere with the rockers) and run a vent hose back and down to eliminate the oil mist getting into the radiator etc. I simply extended the stock breather (99's didn't have the puke bottle) hose down then back along the frame to just aft of the X-fer case skid-plate turning the hose down a bit.
 
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PEAK Diesel has a relocation kit. I replaced the hose, I felt it was not going to stay round. I installed the fill/breather inside the drivers side front bumper. I added a brass 90 to direct the hose better. Pic is after de greasing entire engine bay and underneath, what a mess!
 
I extended my engine venting hose all the way to the fuel tank. I'm guessing about 10' of additional 3/4" heater hose is what I used, which runs down under the engine, tie strapped and clamped along the frame in various locations to assure no dips and sags, and back to a location just in front of the fuel tank. Been like that for a long time. Rarely do I ever see a drip form at the hose end too...
 
MHO = $200 + shipping for a fancy vent/filter kit or $20 for hose and tie wraps. I went with the lesser cost option.
 
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