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Steering Frustrations (Slight Wandering, Replaced Everything)

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Intermittent instrument cluster issues and P2059 code

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NOTE: The majority of this first post consists of the email I sent to the technical reps at Geno's Garage, as well as Borgeson. They've offered as much assistance as they can, which I am very thankful for, but I still have not been able to resolve the problem.

So I have a little bit of a technical issue that I need some assistance on, because I suspect that the new Borgeson Steering Gear Box that I installed may have been defective. But I wanted the opportunity to explain exactly what I installed and how installed it to see if there are any other possible causes. My purpose for installing all these new parts was to eliminate the steering wander, and small amount of play in the wheel that I constantly have to compensate for, especially at highway speeds when the problem is really pronounced and dangerous.

Originally I’d replaced the following parts through a local shop in my home state (to try and quickly eliminate the issue):

Upper Ball Joints
Lower Ball Joints
Outer Tie Rod Ends (Both)
Track Bar Bushings
Steering Damper
Sway Bar Links

This past weekend I was able to install the following parts from Geno’s Garage:

Borgeson Steering Gear Box (BORG 800123)
Dorman Pitman Arm (DRM 531727)
Borgeson Steering Shaft (BORG 000951)

As well as the following parts from O’rielly’s:

Cardone Select Power Steering Pump with Back plate, Aluminum body and new reservoir (CRN 96-1008R)
Dorman Power Steering Pulley (DOR 300-149)
MasterPro Inner Tie Rod End, To Pitman Arm (MPC ES-3624)

The power steering fluid I used was Valvoline Full Synthetic ATF+4 (Per the 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Manufacturer’s Service Manual, 5.9L Diesel Section). The original fluid was completely drained, and the system was flushed consistent with the procedure listed in 19-39 of the Service Manual. At no point was the reservoir empty, nor was the fluid foamy or contaminated in any way. None of the power steering lines leak either. There’s no play in either Front Wheel Bearings, all the Tires are brand new, Rotors and Pads are brand new. I’ve also already had three different 4WD/Front End Alignments performed (The most recent one is attached).

I also had to re-install the Synergy Steering Box Brace (PPM 8558-04) after carefully machining the mounting holes for the Pillow Bearing to accommodate the additional width of the upgraded Borgeson Steering Box. This was necessary because the Nut that was sent with the Borgeson Steering Gear Box completely stripped out at maybe 75 Ft-Lbs of torque and all but ruined at least 1 – 1.5 of the threads on the Steering Gear Box Output Shaft Stud. I have an electronic torque gauge, as well as a click type torque wrench pre-set at the 185 Ft-Lb specification. Prior to using the torque wrench, I put the nut on by hand to ensure that it wouldn’t be cross threaded. Then I used a 1/2 inch short ratchet to tighten it down a little more, and finally used my torque wrench to tighten it to specification when the nut stripped out completely after only a couple partial turns. After the nut had been destroyed, I had to remove the sharp metal shrapnel embedded in the threads of the stud. The remaining option I had was to install the lock nut and long pitman arm nut from the Synergy Steering Gear Box brace that I’d installed for the original gear box. I decided to modify the brace itself to comfortably accommodate the additional width of the gear box so that the pillow bearing could be installed properly. While tightening the pitman arm nut down (both times), I secured the pitman arm to the old inner tie rod end to prevent it from rotating to the extreme left or right against the steering stops in the gear box. Afterward I removed the old inner tie rod end and installed the new one. The pitman arm was also centered appropriately during the latest alignment.

After all of this, the steering has tightened up considerably, it feels significantly smoother, I actually have improved turning radius, and my hydro booster/brakes seem to be more effective when stopping. However, there’s still a small enough amount of play in the wheel/input side of the steering gear box that again I have to compensate for just like with the original steering gear box. The wandering is bad enough for me to be frustrated about after all of the work and money spent on the problem. I've checked the Turbo Diesel Register forums for anyone that experienced a similar issue after installing the Borgeson box, but I haven't found anything for my 3rd gen specifically (Most seem to be for 2nd gen).

Updates since then: After my back and forth with the technical experts, the only suggestion was that I tighten the steering gear box adjustment screw. I've done that twice this last week or so, and now the steering wheel has less than 1/2" of total play and steers very rigidly. I don't think I can tighten the Over Center Adjustment any tighter by screwdriver, the truck still returns to center for the most part after doing a figure 8, but I think I'll go ahead and back the screw off anyway. I really don't want to blow the box up.

I've re-torqued and greased everything. I really have no idea where to go from here. Any help at all would be appreciated.

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I had a similar issue that started after I replaced ball joints on my 04. I then replaced everything else under the front end and upgraded to the 08 changes with no luck. I finally changed to ball joints back out for the OEM joints and the problem went away. It was so bad wondering that I wouldn't drive it.
 
Hey Matt,
Boy you sure went after it. And made alot of progress! Have you checked the position on your caster cam bolt adjustment? Are they tight and in equal correlating position? Although I have a second gen, they are set up the same. My 2001 second gen, after a full front end rebuild like yours, still had a wander. As soon as I adjused the caster cam adjustments all the way forward (recommended by other enthusiasts), it eliminated all the wander, and steering wheel input got tight. It was the key to all the work coming together. Also, I didn't see any mention of your track bar. They wear out up at the frame mount, also a weak link.
PS I have found that most shops won't even touch the caster adjustment on our Dodges, just a personal observation. Any dodge owner I have talked to have clocked their caster all the way forward to the last notch going clockwise on the cam adjustment itself. Good luck!
 
I have some ball joint issues right now with my Carli joints. It's not so much a wandering issue, but more of a "hit a bump and guess which direction the truck is going to go". It's perfectly fine on smooth roads but it's a handful to drive on rough highways...especially towing. My wife used to drive the truck with no hesitation, not anymore.
 
@Matt McIntyre
What Brand Balljoints did you use?

@GrantP
How long you use the Carlis by now?
Did you do a proper alignment, i mean proper, NOT acording to factory specs.
And more Caster means more wander, less caster is better tracking and more responsive.
 
@Ozymandias
I have ~60k on the Carli joints. I haven't touched the alignment in that time, this issue just started. Maybe I wasn't clear but adding more positive caster improves tracking.
 
Give me a moment to respond individually, but in the mean time I attached pictures of the current castor positions (Labeled Driver's and Passenger's Side).

Driver's Side.jpg


Passenger's Side.jpg
 
I had a similar issue that started after I replaced ball joints on my 04. I then replaced everything else under the front end and upgraded to the 08 changes with no luck. I finally changed to ball joints back out for the OEM joints and the problem went away. It was so bad wondering that I wouldn't drive it.

The Ball Joints were replaced with Duralast brand, they don't seem to have gone bad yet.
 
Hey Matt,
Boy you sure went after it. And made alot of progress! Have you checked the position on your caster cam bolt adjustment? Are they tight and in equal correlating position? Although I have a second gen, they are set up the same. My 2001 second gen, after a full front end rebuild like yours, still had a wander. As soon as I adjused the caster cam adjustments all the way forward (recommended by other enthusiasts), it eliminated all the wander, and steering wheel input got tight. It was the key to all the work coming together. Also, I didn't see any mention of your track bar. They wear out up at the frame mount, also a weak link.
PS I have found that most shops won't even touch the caster adjustment on our Dodges, just a personal observation. Any dodge owner I have talked to have clocked their caster all the way forward to the last notch going clockwise on the cam adjustment itself. Good luck!

Haha, well thank you! It's been just the biggest frustration, and I've tried to attack the problem with everything I could.

I've attached a reply with images of my current caster positions. I'll have to give that a try, moving both sides to the most forward notch. Also, how concerned do you think I should be with how much I've tightened the overhead adjustment? Plenty of the bolt is still showing, but I can't seem to tighten or loosen it at the moment. And like I said, the wheel will return to center relatively quickly, but it's still pretty stiff.

The bushings on the track bar have been replaced, and I actually re-torqued it yesterday. They didn't torque it to spec at the shop, so the track bar itself was moving side to side and making a loud popping sound. I actually felt the bolt "hop" and pop while I had my wife at the steering wheel and myself underneath.
 
@Matt McIntyre
What Brand Balljoints did you use?

@GrantP
How long you use the Carlis by now?
Did you do a proper alignment, i mean proper, NOT acording to factory specs.
And more Caster means more wander, less caster is better tracking and more responsive.

Unfortunately they were Duralast brand ball joints, I believe they were the higher quality type though (both have greasable fittings).
 
good pics. That sure looks like a factory setting. Yes, rotate your cams to the furthest forward notch. Give that a whirl. It may throw your steering wheel off-center a little bit, but you know how to correct that. I used everything Moog on my front end. Talk about robust. I'm thinkin the 'overhead' adjustment you are referring to is the steering box adjuster. It would be a good idea to put the adjustment back to where you found it Chances are it wasn't the issue, and you don't want to prematurely wear it out. It will damage the sector shaft in your box. Another thing to check with your wife's help: Have your wife turn the wheels under power and turn your attention to the synergy steering box brace. Make sure the bearing isn't binding on the shaft. Mine did it. Scared the crap out of me when it happened, lol. I would loosen it, steer from side to side while you're underneath looking for the sweet spot on the bearing/shaft movement, then tighten. I would definitely try to eliminate the play in the ends of the track bar though. Somehow with different bolts Our trucks are tough, but the front ends will find any wiggle room to make our lives difficult. Just eliminate the possibility. Rich
 
Also Matt, our front ends are so ez to align ourselves. By checking from a common tread line in each tire, measure from wheel to wheel on the front, at half wheel height, the toe should be 1/8" greater at the front than at the rear measurent. In other words 'toe out'an 1/8". Toe-in will cause wander too, not to mention wear the outside of the tires.
 
The Ball Joints were replaced with Duralast brand, they don't seem to have gone bad yet.

I dont know this brand, does someone have an idea about the quality of them?


Fact is you changed almost everything on the frontend and still have a wander - often it happens that aftermarket balljoints are to tight, they bind from new with the weight of the truck on it.
And a knuckle that bind will exactly show what you have, a tendency to wander the road and as driver you have to guide it all the time instead that it goes straight by itself.

What you can do to examine - lift the truck, then disconnect the steering linkage at the knuckle, on both sides of the truck.
Now you can move the wheel with the knuckle on by hand, and without weight of the truck that has to be absolutely free moving, with a tip of a finger the knuckle should fall to its end stop.

@GrantP
You say you have problem with the Carlis, well, what is the Issue?
These are pure metal without any plastic part, either they bind or they are worn out. There is nothing in between.
I use them myself and I'm pretty happy how they work out, only thing i do for maintenance is grease them on a regular basis with the wheels of the road acording to the manual.
 
Also Matt, our front ends are so ez to align ourselves. By checking from a common tread line in each tire, measure from wheel to wheel on the front, at half wheel height, the toe should be 1/8" greater at the front than at the rear measurent. In other words 'toe out'an 1/8". Toe-in will cause wander too, not to mention wear the outside of the tires.

Please no, Toe out is the worst that can be done on an Ram Gen3, Neutral/Dead Zero Toe with tendency to Toe In is perfect.
The Specs in the Workshop manual from Dodge are crap, Truck will eat tires with that and doesn't track nice.

BTDT
 
0.00-0.05 deg total toe in for the 08.5+ steering is idea, caster I would not go more then about 4.5. DO NOT do toe out, that will cause terrible steering and handling. If you have a steering joint in the tie rods or ball joint that is too tight it will cause just as much of a handling issue as too loose so make sure everything moves freely.
 
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