Seeking Cummins Mechanic In Northern AZ.

[JM~N~AZ]

Looking for a reliable & highly skilled diesel mechanic for my 1995 Dodge/Cummins. Hopefully located near Prescott, Flagstaff, or Phoenix, etc.

Thank you.

 

[GrantP]

What's the issue? Knowing what work you need would help direct you to the right shop.

 

[JM~N~AZ]

What's the issue? Knowing what work you need would help direct you to the right shop.

Not sure. Lack of power. I suspect a fuel starvation issue.

 

[DavidC]

Have you changed the fuel filter ?. That is usually the first thing to do.

 

[DavidC]

Check this post. There is a recommendation of R&R.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fueling-problem.266904/page-2

 

[JM~N~AZ]

Have you changed the fuel filter ?. That is usually the first thing to do.

Several times. Plan to change it again though.

 

[JM~N~AZ]

Check this post. There is a recommendation of R&R.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fueling-problem.266904/page-2

Thanks.

 

[GAmes]

Have you checked the fuel shut off solenoid (FSS) for full travel, or to make sure it isn't broken. I had a low power issue last week.

 

[JM~N~AZ]

Have you checked the fuel shut off solenoid (FSS) for full travel, or to make sure it isn't broken. I had a low power issue last week.

No I haven't. I'm mostly looking for a competent shop that can resolve the issue(s). Thank you.

 

[GAmes]

It takes 10 seconds to check it yourself. A competent shop will charge you ate least 30 minutes of their hourly rate.

 

[JM~N~AZ]

Replaced the fuel filter & attempted to measure the fuel shut off solenoid travel. I don't know how you guys can see the tape measure & verify 2 5/8". Looked close though. I pulled the solenoid & moved the rod end up 4 turns, reinstalled & verified operation. In my research I learned of the pre-filter in the fuel heating bowl. I have ordered a replacement & I'm awaiting delivery. Sounds like replacing the pre-filter gasket can be challenging. We'll see.

PS. I do not like the brake master cylinder location. I de-burred that sum'***** after the first filter change many years ago, but it still extracts blood. Guess it makes a nice place to rest your chin.

 

[GAmes]

It only takes a bit of muscle and a socket on a couple extensions to remove the filter bowl. There WILL be a quantity of fuel released so don't be under it. When you pull the bowl off to replace the screen I suggest you use an allen wrench to remove the heater. Throw the heater in the trash. The filter bowl will thread into the housing hole. Potential air leak eliminated.

 

[JM~N~AZ]

Truck is 4x4 with 2-3" lift. Hopefully old gasket will come out fairly easy.

Remove fuel heater? The winters here are cold & truck is parked outside. Block heater shorted out this last winter. Happened once before & was repaired by replacing the chord. Chord replacement didn't resolve the issue this time.

 

[GAmes]

The fuel heater is a joke as far as aiding in cold weather operation. I removed mine years ago and since then have operated in northern Alberta in the dead of winter. The block heater does nothing to heat the fuel. Genos carries new heat elements.

To quote JoeG, a long time TDR member and contributor who wrote an info article about the 12 valve fuel system.

"The fuel heater is actually worthless. Just a problem waiting to happen. It does not help to start in
cold weather. There is about a quart of fuel between the fuel heater and the injectors. The fuel
filter is full of cold fuel. So are all the lines, the lift pump, and the injection pump. So when the
truck is started it is started with cold fuel. It takes a lot of pumping with the starter to fill the fuel
filter when it is changed. It would take that much pumping plus some to get warm fuel from the
fuel heater to the injectors."

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/58777-joe-gs-fuel-system-writeup.html

 

[JM~N~AZ]

Alright... I read about the fuel heater. If I remove it, do I need any type of a "plug" to replace it & prevent a leak? I'm not sure exactly how it looks yet. Thanks.

 

[Timd32]

Alright... I read about the fuel heater. If I remove it, do I need any type of a "plug" to replace it & prevent a leak? I'm not sure exactly how it looks yet. Thanks.

No plug needed on my 96, there was a small threaded piece in there that I moved, it was really easy.

From what I recall from the bottom you have the small bowl with a strainer then the heater then the base.

Remove the bowl, replace the strainer, remove the heater, remove the one longer threaded piece, now the bowl of my just screwed on to the base.

I see they sell a threaded piece on some sites but no clue why that is needed, mine was super easy.

As far as your 2-5/8" deal make a small go no go gauge maybe a wodden dowel or threaded rod and you can just mark the 2-5/8" that way you dont fight the tape measure. Never done it but I make small go no go gauges all the time for stuff where a tape measure is hard to get into. Or I have to make the same adjustment a few times.

Also there is a small elbow fuel line that should be replaced near the heater, super easy to replace that, and check your rubber lines for signs of wear and tear.

 

[pimikan jim]

have resolved a fair number of low power issues by replacing the flexible fuel lines (if you have them) they tend to collapse internally over time. Not saying this is your problem.... just saying. Also have pulled a fair amount of junk out fuel tanks. Do you have locking fuel caps? Some people don't like diesels! Yes! Seriously!