Hard Starting

[onstottc]

My 1995 Ram 2500 suddenly started taking about 10 seconds of cranking to start (it starts when the fuel pressure comes up to 10psi.) Once it starts, the fuel pressure stays between 20-30 psi and it runs normally. I do notice that the fuel pressure drops fast when I shut off the engine. Also, when I use the hand primer, I can hear fuel going through the overflow valve, but it still takes 10 seconds to start. I don't think it is the battery because it spins over at the same speed it always has. I checked the shutoff solenoid and it is engaging fully.

Any ideas what I should do next? I gave the engine a cleaning and the only leak I see is a little wetness on the fuel drain valve. I'm going to replace the fuel filter and drain, but the fact that I can hear fuel going through the overflow valve when I prime it makes me wonder if something worse than a fuel leak is occuring.

 

[DavidC]

I think your going in the right direction. That is probably about the right time to replenish the injector system. It doesn't require a large leak to start draining from the injectors to the tank.

 

[BigPapa]

Have you replace the return fuel hose? Very common issue. No visible leak but it will suck air and lose prime.

 

[dieselshadow]

You should definitely replace the rubber fuel lines under the intake manifold. They are known to rot out, not leak fuel, but will leak air. When this happens, you get EXACTLY what you described. On my ‘95 when I owned it, I ended up replacing them every few years with the best marine fuel hose I could get my hands on. I always meant to put some sort of insulation on them to help prevent the slow deterioration of them, but never did. Replacing these two short hoses is considered a regular maintenance item.

Easy peasy my friend.

 

[onstottc]

I think your going in the right direction. That is probably about the right time to replenish the injector system. It doesn't require a large leak to start draining from the injectors to the tank.

The injectors were rebuilt a few months ago with 5x11 sac injectors from DAP.

 

[onstottc]

You should definitely replace the rubber file lines under the intake manifold. They are known to rot out, not leak fuel, but will leak air. When this happens, you get EXACTLY what you described. On my ‘95 when I owned it, I ended up replacing them every few years with the best hose I could get my hands on. I always meant to put some sort of insulation on them to help prevent the slow deterioration of them, but never did. Replacing these two hoses is considered a regular maintenance item.

Easy peasy my friend.

I am thinking that is overdue. The part I dread is disconnecting those stupid fuel fittings on the tank. I destroyed the connectors on my other '95 and ended up building my own draw straw.

 

[dieselshadow]

I never did any of fuel beyond what was in the engine bay. They aren’t subject to the heat cycles and extremes that the fuel lines under the manifold see.

At least that never gave me any issues.

Your mileage may vary. But go ahead and get new lines on, that’s for sure. Even if they aren’t the issue right now (but I’ll bet they are) they will be.

 

[DavidC]

The injectors were rebuilt a few months ago with 5x11 sac injectors from DAP.

I am not implying at least yet but when air enters the system it will drain from the highest point (injector lines) then you need to refill/pressurize those to get it started

 

[onstottc]

I am not implying at least yet but when air enters the system it will drain from the highest point (injector lines) then you need to refill/pressurize those to get it started

That makes a lot of sense and would explain what I am seeing.

 

[BigPapa]

Here’s an old thread with a lot of good info.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/any-tricks.171159/

 

[onstottc]

I ordered Larry B's fuel line kit which should replace all of the lines going back to the tank. I plan on bypassing the fuel heater at the same time. I'm looking into changing over to a filter without a drain valve. I've had nothing but problems with WIF sensors over the years.

 

[GAmes]

Just deleting the heater is easy. You want to keep the pre-filter screen. It protects the lift pump.